Found 31 Messages
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Last post: May 17, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2018
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whatsapp mod
watch tv series
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Last post: Feb 12, 2024 Member since:Oct 23, 2020
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One day its there ...and the next day its gone ...then....
Cheers, Ian
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Last post: Feb 12, 2024 Member since:Oct 23, 2020
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Interesting new piece of data..... First mention (or did I miss it) of an electric fan??
I assumed from earlier comments that it has an engine driven fan??? If it has an electric fan only, it will overheat if the fan doesn't switch on when the engine temp demands it (ie defective fan switch). Several incidents have convinced me that if the fan belt breaks or the fan comes apart (don't ask) the flow of air caused by the car moving forward is not sufficient to cool it.
Cheers, Ian
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Last post: May 16, 2024 Member since:Sep 30, 2002
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I'm only posting to see if it helps.
Weird.
~ 30 minutes in a Mini is more therapeutic than 3 sessions @ the shrink. ~
Mike NB, Canada
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Total posts: 154
Last post: Feb 12, 2024 Member since:Oct 23, 2020
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Easiest way to identify a sealed system cap is it only has one seal on the foot of the sprung part whereas your recovery cap has a seal on foot and also where cap seals against rad filler neck...."
"...... Could I have added too much coolant to the system with it having nowhere to go but out the vent on top of the tank? The color of the coolant was pretty disgusting and very rusty. I then decided I was time for a new radiator and cooling system flush...."
Reverting to a sealed (non-recovery) cooling system is probably a retrograde step .... pretty much all modern cars have a coolant recovery system.
I would suggest you need to do a good reverse pressure flush of the block first. Then make sure the rad cap allows the necessary reverse syphon as the system cools (get a reputable brand from any auto shop ... nothing specifically Mini needed). And, finally, make sure the overflow hose reaches the bottom of the overflow tank (very important).... which should only be about a quarter full (but well above the bottom end of the overflow hose) when the system is cold.
Your problems are most likely related to a build-up of crud in the block which causes localised boiling. The resultant steam is then forcing water out of the system. Without that the water doesn't expand very much. If you overfill the system it will vent once. The extra water is pushed out and the correct amount remains (as long as localised overheating is not pushing it out).
A good clean out of the rad by a reputable auto cooling shop is a much better bet than a new cheap Chinese alloy rad. Better in both performance and $$$$.
BTD (all:)T
Cheers, Ian
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Easiest way to identify a sealed system cap is it only has one seal on the foot of the sprung part whereas your recovery cap has a seal on foot and also where cap seals against rad filler neck.
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Last post: May 15, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
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Are you using pre-mixed Prestone style "Coolant" or water ?
If you're using 50/50 'coolant' then you've created the problem by reducing the heat transfer ability of your cooling system - water is a far better means to transfer heat than the rubbish pre-mix designed for modern cars...
Run water with about 10% blue glycol for anti-corrosion and you'll probably be okay.
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Last post: May 16, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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"my guess. the themomstat is stuck or has air bubble in line.. tell him to take thermostat and drill six Small holes in it. so water will still flow.. ( do NOT take the thermostat totally out. as water will flow to quick.. then just heater one full blast.. last resort.. need to just replace water pump."
and later...
"also.. might tell him to buy proper alloy rad off ebay from Winning Spares from China. 4 core.about $125 with free shipping. I use Only alloy rads in all my minis and mokes.. ps. I have proper OZ moke and steel wagon for sale."
I can add: check the temperature sensor controlling the electric fan is functioning properly.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Total posts: 9553
Last post: May 16, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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On some other cars, where there is a pressurized coolant tank, the rad should be full and the tank filled to the specified mark, to allow for coolant expansion. In this configuration, the pressure limiting "rad cap" is on the expansion tank and the rad, if it has a neck, gets a blank cap. It may or may not have an overflow tank as well.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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I chased this rabbit down the hole on my mini. In round one I flushed the cooling system full of black gunk multiple times. Better but still running hot. In round two, I replaced the leaking water pump. I installed the fan blade correctly (it came installed wrong). I replaced the hoses and I replaced the radiator with an aluminum two core. That worked too well- guess now is that the stat is stuck open....;-) but I don't need heat when the 'feels like' is over 100f every day.;-)
So can you/ have you flushed the system? Oily? Black gunk? (Prestone 'kit' at O'reilly) Next I would check the stat you installed. Defective new parts seem common these days. May wish to remove and run without it to see. (not long term but just long enough to rule it out) You said you did the water pump. Check fan belt - if it is slipping water pump ain't pumping. (I know obvious) Then it is hoses and radiator-Check that radiator is clean externally - not degraded with fan belt foo foo and dirt. If still a problem then move to radiator- have it dipped or as I did just replace it. Good Luck
Kim
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Total posts: 1359
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Found 31 Messages