Okay, I will try taking this out. I hadn't realized it was necessary to do so.

Thanks!

The bolt that holds the bottom of the rad to the engine mount is 5/16" UNF and will work for you.

I didn't take the drive gear out! That requires use of a bolt which cannot be obtained in a local hardware store. I only removed the distributor. I cannot rotate the engine by hand, which is the current problem.

From what you have done the only thing i can think of that is stopping the engine turning over would be incorrectly inserting the dizzy drive gear, remove it carefully following the previous posts on how to and see if the engine will turn over then. If it still will not turn over you need to look at the starter and make sure you have 12 volts going to it.

Well, I've spent another day with the car in the driveway unable to go anywhere. It's pitch black outside so I'm going to have to wrap it up as I can't think of anything else to do that would constitute lighting the car up (although I could if anyone has any ideas).

I don't know what to do.

If the bolt you are talking about is the one displayed in the picture on page 2A-13 of the Haynes manual, then I am screwed. It's a 5/16in UNF bolt.

I would advocate lots of caution here.

Especially following Richard's comment "and I can't get the engine to turn over."

Nothing you have done should pevent the engine turning over - so if it is stuck then something has gone wrong. 

And trying to force the engine to turn may further damage whatever is getting in the way.

I should start by advising that I have no experience with autos (beyond hooning about it one about 40 years ago).

However, logic tells me that the starter drives a ring gear attached to the crank.  I can't see that the starter would drive through the gearbox.

So, sticking out the rad end of the starter motor should be a small square knob.  If you place a 7/16 ring spanner on this (and remove teh spark plugs) you should be able to rotate the starter.  If not then the starter has jammed on the ring gear. Mine does this occasionally. Wiggle it (with a bit of force) to free.  In extreme cases you may need to remove the starter.  Do autos have inertia or pre-engaged starters?????

If the starter is free then look at the dizzie drive.  If you look into the dizzie mount you should see a ring (its actually the rim of a cup shaped depression in the head of the drive shaft) with an offset slot (about 4mm wide) running from side to side.  The centre of the drive is threaded to take a standard 7/16th bolt (thats the size of spanner that fits the  head) - fine thread (I think).  The standard drive removal tool is a 7/16th headed, fine thread bolt about 10cm long. Screw the bolt into the drive about 10 turns then turn the bolt backwards while pulling the bolt out.  The drive shaft should spiral out and can be lifted free.

Now see if you can rotate the engine using the fan belt (don't forget - plugs out).

If its still jammed I've run out of ideas...

Just one other thing...  It may be the photos but the drive end of the dizzie on the right looks much bigger than the one on the left and I would therefore suggest you need a different dizzie drive as well.

Cheers, Ian

Yes, that's the one thing I do know.

Rotor in dizzy runs CCW (backwards to what you might imagine)

firing order 1-3-4-2

Here's the other photo

Okay, distributor is back out. This is what they look like, and there's the hole. Did I actually drop something? I'm getting ready to put this thing in neutral and let it roll out into the street.

I suspect that the distributor drive is not properly inserted and is stuck between the crankshaft and the block.  Remove and try again.

If you have dropped it into the transmission, you might be able to sneak it out with a borescope, a magnet on an extension, and a load of luck.

No spark plugs, engine is still not budging. I'm trying to turn the yellow fan and pushing on the belt. Why isn't it moving.

PS I can see the timing scale on my pulley. Can't move anything though.

Willie_B - we must have posted at the same time since I hadn't previously seen your post/picture. I will look over there now. The spot in the manual (under the rubber grommet) has nothing that I can see. Still I have no idea how to rotate the engine as per the manual.

You will need to remove all the sparkplugs to make turning over by hand possible. Otherwise you are working against the cylinder compression. I push/pull on the alternator fan and the cooling fan at the same time to rotate the engine.

I do not at all understand the manual or your post and I am running out of daylight. I'm using a 65DM electronic distributor. I am looking where the manual instructed, using a mirror and everything, and I do not see numbers or anything just a rusty piece of metal with teeth. I can't figure out how to rotate the engine since it's off (once again I have an automatic) - pressing the fan belt and trying to turn the radiator fan blades makes no sense to me and nothing will budge. I feel like I'm going to break the fan. I'm getting nowhere.

I forgot you have an auto. I do not know what it will have for timing.

This is what mine looks like on the rad. side crank pulley. The white mark is a small nick/groove in the pulley. I added the white paint to make it easier to see.

According to the Haynes manual this means I have to remove that grommet on the flywheel cover, is that right?

I'm going to take a break, as I've been fiddling things since 9am and haven't eaten, but I will re-read and re-re-read your post and the Haynes manual until my eyes go blurry.

Thanks for your help,
Rich

It won't turn over or it won't fire? The dist. drive shaft you pulled out has to go back in the exact postion it came out. It will go in all sorts of the wrong places. If you roll the car with it in gear to set the engine so it is timed to fire the #1 sparkplug, then install the shaft so that when you install the dist. the rotor is pointed to the #1 wire (about 1:30). You should have a timing mark on the pulley on the radiator end of the engine (will be hard to see as it will be a small notch in the pulley), and a small pointer with several teeth and numbers on it. The notch should be pointing to the center of the teeth area. You may have to pull the valve cover off to make sure you are on the correct stroke, both valves closed on the #1 cylinder.

So the coil and distributor from UPS showed up this morning and I installed them both properly (I think) and I can't get the engine to turn over. Any kind of adjustments I should be making?