Mini Mania
Est. 1974
Shop by Car
 Live Help
800-946-2642
Search
All
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Feb 15, 2012 03:42PM
Total posts: 2413
Last post: Oct 22, 2014
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
US

I built a fixture that goes in my vise which holds the hub by the caliper tabs. I press in the outer races and then fit the inside inner and seal. I use a CV I had to cut off an axle and put the spacer in place the out side inner race and drive flange and a taper washer and nut. I hit it with a impact and check for wobble. Most of the time it's just fine sometimes tight sometimes loose. Like I said I have all spacers I have taken out over the years. They very more than you think they would. I also have a length of tube in case I need to start over. I can part a pc. in the lathe then work it on a glass sheet with different grit emery glueded to it. A zero to one mike is needed to check for parallel. A dial indicator helps checking for wobble or free play. You don't want to get it to tight but slop isn't good either. Once I'm satisfied I install the outer seal and fit the hub. I also do the ball joints in the same fixture but before fitting bearings. I don't know if that helps but I have been at this so long I have come up with all kinds of silly ideas.

Steve

 Posted: Feb 15, 2012 12:34PM
Total posts: 2957
Last post: Oct 18, 2014
Member since:Jun 23, 2000
US

Steve:

What process do you use to modify the spacers to fit?

I know you have access to the tools that you might need, but supposedly they are matched in manufaturing.

Terry

 Posted: Feb 13, 2012 07:08PM
Total posts: 2413
Last post: Oct 22, 2014
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
US

beats me Zip, I just order 1 5/16 nuts and taper washers when I order CVs. I guess I could send a couple out for some testing. I just torque to 150 then the next slot and let them go. I do go to the trouble to hand fit the bearing spacers. every time I strip hubs I save the spacers and play with them getting just the right feel.

Heck I was out today picking up some 2.2 watt dash lamps when I stumbled on a Smiths 270 degree sweep mech. water temp gauge to match my 270 degree sweep OP gauge. Going to look nice in my three clock center pod.

Steve

 Posted: Feb 13, 2012 05:35PM
Total posts: 2017
Last post: Oct 21, 2014
Member since:Jul 15, 2010
US

There's something about the change over to the 34mm nuts that bugs me.... As far as I know it happened after Mini production ended and was most likely caused by the original being NLA.
So, what specification are these made to? Would factors such as hardness, tensil strength, thread stretch at torque have any effect on suitablility?
Or, am I just a worry-wort? And, should I just keep my nose out of it as I use the smaller nut for the drum brake CV's?

 Posted: Feb 13, 2012 10:13AM
Total posts: 2413
Last post: Oct 22, 2014
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
US

Yes you are correct. Nut that comes with new CV is 34mm. I like to order new 1 5/16 nuts when I order CVs I also like to buy new taper washers at the same time. I guess sooner or later I'll break down and buy a 34 mm socket. Having quite a few of the metric nuts.

Steve

 Posted: Feb 13, 2012 09:18AM
Total posts: 2957
Last post: Oct 18, 2014
Member since:Jun 23, 2000
US

Found my own answer:

Note that the current generation of these CVs comes with a 34mm nut. Same threads as the old CVs, just a different sized nut. 1-5/16" socket will not fit. Too small. 1-3/8" appears to fit but is too big. Use only a proper 34mm socket or you may round the nut.

 Posted: Feb 13, 2012 08:51AM
Total posts: 2957
Last post: Oct 18, 2014
Member since:Jun 23, 2000
US

One set of CV joints I bought awhile back came with two axle nuts, one SAE and one metric. Is the metric one 34 mm?

It looks like the recent one only come with one nut.

Terry