If I might ask just how many of these so called wide ratio trannys have you seen or worked on? Do you know the story behind them or are you just making it up as you go along? I have had as many as 20 boxes in the shop at a time and have only ever seen one. The second gear on it was perfect. In fact it's under my 1360 Cooper S engine. I call them A++ or ultra wide ratio. All the second gears I have replaced have been in std wide ratio ( not Cooper S ratios ) trannys A and A+ rods. Steve (CTR)

The quick-shift kits require an understanding of how they work and attention to detail when installing... no more troublesome than that! You simply can't have a bunch of worn parts and slop, and expect the quick-shift to fix it....

I hear a lot about "late rod-change" boxes having "bad" second gears. Once again, really no mystery about this. They went to a wide ratio gear set, the double groove around the gear circumference in most of the 90s boxes. This was to get the overweight and underpowered cars off the line when they HAD to go to tall gears for emissions and fuel economy.  Now, the synchro (or baulk ring) has to bring second gear up to main-shaft speed to allow a smooth shift, and the wide ratio gears require a greater change in rotational speed for that to happen. This does not make most drivers any more patient with the already sketchy shifting Minis, so the synchros get knackered, and shortly thereafter, the gears!

 

If NOT from worn or misaligned linkage (check the bushing for the steady-rod to the diff cover too), jumping out of second gear is a result of the engagement dogs on the gear wearing to a beveled shape rather than sharp little rectangles they start out with. They will jump out of gear under load as the shift collar slides off those dogs, which are beginning to take the shape of little "ramps".  When coasting or going downhill, the wheels are turning everything else, the worn dogs cause the shift-slider to slip off, and clunk, you get neutral!

 

Suddenly popping out of second on the over-run is quite often caused by fitting a new oil seal and rubber gaiter.
The extra spring in the new rubber and the overrun vibrations are enough to jiggle it out.

I cured it on Betty by chopping off the brand new gaiter - she hasn't done it since. 

Anything for you my friend Mal, the ones I have run into had the two piece bushing in the reverse gear and one shifts within the gear. That may be why they went to a 1 piece bush. It's still as deep as you can go in a tranny. If you start backwards and lift mine popped out. It stayed in under pressure. Steve (CTR)

Pray tell us inquiring minds want to know Steve. I have one here that does it occasionally.

It's funny how people come here and ask a question, get some answers and never post back.

I'd think the problem with a new gear box and one that's been in service for years would not be the same. The KAD quick shift / short shift often causes more problems than I think it's worth. I have removed more than I have installed. The knock offs are a real problem.

I still find myself replacing 2nd gear in A+ rod change boxes. This seems to have been a problem with all the later boxes. I can tell you what makes the jump out of reverse. Steve (CTR)

I'm dragging this out of the depths, because Cartlon is doing the same thing lately. 2nd gear lets loose on occasion. I am interested to find out what the problem was in this case, if it was ever figured out. 

If that was my car, I'd feel a bit sick too.

"Something to consider and to check, first. 2nd gear is when the rod needs to be pushed all the way in. It's also a high torque gear, so if it's not fully "home" it could kick out under the conditions you describe.

Check to see if you have a rod seal dust boot that is causing the shifter to not enter in the box fully or if your roll pin is not home and is catching on something. I've seen where people have used a nail or a screw instead of the proper roll pin and this has happened.

Probably the best thing to do is put it up high on jack stands and have someone row through the gears (engine off) and you watch the movement at the gearbox linkage where it enters the tranny. You'll be a mile ahead if you disconnect the rod change coupler first, and use channel locks and/or rubber mallet to push the rod stub in to 2nd gear and mark it so that when you hook it all back up you can see how far it's supposed to go and if it's meeting that mark with the linkage hooked up."

I's say this is probably your issue. I had the same problem with second after just fitting a new dust boot. I cut mine down just a little and the problem went away...

And what part of the USA are you located in. There is always a chance someone local to you may be able to help sort this out. It seems second gear is a problem in the later rod change boxes. As long as I can still buy them I'm replacing second gear and closely inspecting the first / second shift hub. The shift fork should be replaced as well unless the cheeks measure closer than the new fork. Once in awhile you get that with a gently used 998 tranny. I'm in Newport News VA. and do my share of trannys.

CTR

make sure you rubber shift boot is not in the way, and i would also check to make sure the shift hole is big enough, (if it isn't factory) and this is causing the boot to want to push the shifter forward, i would also check ALL the engine mounts, going down hill with your foot off the gas, this might tip and move the engine just enough to make it pop out of 2nd  

I have seen part #11 cause a problem if it is worn badly.

Thanks, I'll check all that out. The short shift always seemed a bit clunky, so I'll start there and disconnect and try the mallet to see off the rods going in all the way.

Well, that does certainly suck.

Something to consider and to check, first. 2nd gear is when the rod needs to be pushed all the way in. It's also a high torque gear, so if it's not fully "home" it could kick out under the conditions you describe.

Check to see if you have a rod seal dust boot that is causing the shifter to not enter in the box fully or if your roll pin is not home and is catching on something. I've seen where people have used a nail or a screw instead of the proper roll pin and this has happened.

Probably the best thing to do is put it up high on jack stands and have someone row through the gears (engine off) and you watch the movement at the gearbox linkage where it enters the tranny. You'll be a mile ahead if you disconnect the rod change coupler first, and use channel locks and/or rubber mallet to push the rod stub in to 2nd gear and mark it so that when you hook it all back up you can see how far it's supposed to go and if it's meeting that mark with the linkage hooked up.

I would also highly suspect the short shifter.

But if it didn't do it from day 1, what may have happened is the aforementioned slight limited throw and now the dog teeth are worn excessively from not being fully engaged before causing it to kick out now.

Oh, another thing to check is the engine steadies and engine bushings/motor mounts. If under deceleration/engine braking your engine is rocking, it too will cause your linkage to possible be pulled out of gear.

I have a new Med Engineering A+ engine and gearbox that pops out of gear in second. It only happens going downhill, throttle off. Did I get a bad gearbox or could it be something else? I'm using a KAD short shift, could that be the problem? I've got like 350 miles on this box and feel a bit sick.