400miles away from home with possible clutch issue... help!
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Oct 2, 2015 08:06PM | HopeToBuyClassicmini | |
Aug 16, 2015 08:19AM | HopeToBuyClassicmini | Edited: Aug 16, 2015 08:31AM |
Aug 16, 2015 05:05AM | dklawson | |
Aug 16, 2015 04:08AM | oldminimover49 | |
Aug 15, 2015 06:48PM | Hunter2 | |
Aug 15, 2015 06:32PM | HopeToBuyClassicmini | |
Apr 20, 2012 07:21PM | Tin box | Edited: Apr 20, 2012 07:24PM |
Apr 19, 2012 06:02AM | 850mini | |
Apr 18, 2012 04:05PM | jeg | Edited: Apr 18, 2012 04:20PM |
Apr 18, 2012 03:20PM | nuwan_d | |
Apr 18, 2012 05:03AM | 850mini | |
Apr 17, 2012 06:45PM | Minimike1 | |
Apr 17, 2012 05:59PM | zippypinhead | |
Apr 17, 2012 04:44PM | nuwan_d | |
Apr 17, 2012 03:50PM | h_lankford | |
Apr 17, 2012 03:41PM | duane315 | |
Apr 17, 2012 03:22PM | mur | |
Apr 17, 2012 03:15PM | nuwan_d |
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So I tried to get my clutch arm out, but the clevis pin had galvanize-rusted itself solid to the clutch housing end cover and so the end cover did need to come out and a product called "Rost Off Max Ice" and heat did have to be employed to break the rust bonds.
I cannot take any credit though... It was the artistry of a mechanic named Buddy over at Barnett Auto who made it happen. He was recommended by my carburetor guy, Joe Curto.
Anyway, he did some beautiful work! He even sandblasted the exterior of the end cover and the slave cylinder mounting plate, repainting the later with a black ceramic hydraulic fluid and heat resistant brake caliper paint - see here.
And boy did the arm and plunger need replacing - I'm pretty shocked that I could shift at all!
Here's a few pictures that show how badly worn the clutch arm was (there's a triangular chunk out of it), the plunger (there's a divot in the side of the cylinderical socket) and the clevis pin (it's actually notched from wear). Look how far off center from the plunger socket the clutch arm was.
So if anyone else starts to have issues shifting into first and reverse like mine and nuwan's issue - check the condition of your clutch arm and plunger!
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Mine's a '91 exhibiting similar symptoms now like nuwan_d's Mini in this thread did years ago.
Apologies for any confusion I may have caused!
Still hoping nuwan_d might remember what the resolution was....
(I'm beginning to think my throwout stop nuts are too far in because the resting gap is less than the spec's 6.5mm, and I've read that might be preventing full disengagement)
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Al, I had the same observation but then I noticed this is an old, revitalized thread. Robin's post was made in 2012.
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Big AL
Niagara Ontario Canada
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Was it the clutch master, the stop nut on the clutch plunger or...?
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What did you need to do in the end to fix it?
I've got a 1991 with a Verto clutch (small arm, diagonal mount plate & weird bleed screw position for SC) giving me similar symptoms...
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The Ohio Mini Owners monthly meeting is May 1st at Donatos Pizza on Airway Road, near Wright Patterson AFB in Dayton. We start around 6:30 until ?
If you are up for spaghetti dinner, the Museum of British Transportation is having a fundraiser $10, this Sunday... sure to be a lot of car people.
Call me for more de tails.
Kevin
Ohio Mini Owners
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Clutch pedal engagement feels a lower than normal.
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Edit: If it's a pre-verto (with long arm) clutch, I'd check the clutch return stop screw adjustment on the clutch cover. If its a verto (short arm) clutch, check that the measurement between the 15/16" throwout stop-nut at the bottom of the arm and clutch cover is 6½mm.
1500 km in 3 weeks might have caused some wear if it wasn't setup correctly originally...
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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Last post: Apr 18, 2012 Member since:Nov 22, 2011
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Update: The clutch pedal still felt normal this morning going to work and the drive back and around town this afternoon. Definately a very weird symptom! I think I'm in the clear until I get back home and can take a deeper look and inspect it all.
I guess this begs the next question... who is in the dayton troy area? The weather is great and I'm in need of a talk with other car guys.
850mini Kevin, thanks very much for the offer but I think I'll be ok right now.
Minimike1 No leaks from the master cylinder, thanks
zippypinhead I think you just opened up a can of worms for me... however, importing from canada is very different than from overseas. I'll have to dig deeper to be sure but I'm happy you brought it up. FYI, Canada uses a 15 year import rule but I've brought cars in under that age from the US.
Thanks again everyone!
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Are you still needing help?
800/523-4625 x1114
Kevin
Ohio Mini Owners
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lots of drama. How about pumping the clutch pedal a few times to
get it into first gear then you should be able to shift on the synchros. If you clutch master is low on fluid, it might be wet on
the back side of the clutch pedal in the car. Hence a bad master with an internal leak. Or it would be the slave with a bad seal.
Either way, you should be able to drive home with a bottle of brake fluid to top off your system.
If you have a passenger or helper, you might do a bleed of the clutch hydraulics also.
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Well, if you're down in the Dayton area, there should be no shortage of help. Hell, a couple of 'em had their street renamed to Mini Court.
Sorry, I'm on the road right now and don't have access to the contact info of the many Mini folks down there.... Hopefully one of 'em will chime in.
Besides your clutch problem, which I'm sure will get sorted out, you might have a problem importing that Mini.... it's a few years shy of the arbitrary 25 year old rule. It's a crap law, but it is what it is...
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Last post: Apr 18, 2012 Member since:Nov 22, 2011
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Thanks all for the speedy responses!!!
I should have mentioned that I did check under the slave boot already; very faint amount of moisture there and I'll put it on my to do list when I get home, but dry enough to say that is not the issue (at least for me).
I ended up cycling the clutch pedal for a minute and was able to build up a normal feeling pedal... drove around the hotel a few times and everything seems ok. I'll check and see if it has bled down or lost it's feel before I hit the bed. I can only assume there is an issue in the soft line (de-laminated) or a leak but that's a stab in the dark at this point. Clutch fluid level is ok and no evidence of a fluid leak.
Will update with any changes in my situation. I am in the process of relocating from Toronto Ontario (Canada) to Troy Ohio (just north of Dayton) for work, and really appreciated the local support! Once moved I'll be able to offer the same support.
mur, I'll email you to get those contacts (if not for now it will be nice to know people in future)
duane315, Thanks for the offer, sadly the wrong side of Ohio for me
h_lankford Thanks for the tips on getting into gear... I'm sadly well versed in making a transmission do what I need from all the racing... haha.
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set your idle as absolutely as low as possible
from standing still and engine running, quickly cram the gearshift into 1st without touching the clutch - off you go, playing with the right time to give it throttle
the gearing is low enough to do this sometimes without stalling - I have done this. Does not solve your clutch problem, but may get you going
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if you are in eastern oh and near pittsburgh pa i can help. shop, tools, ect.
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It sounds like a slave cylinder seal failure.  ull the dust boot back and look for brake fluid.
Since you are a rally driver, you should be able to get going in first and then not need the clutch. Use courage, etc.
Ohio is probably the best state to have mini problems.
[email protected] for my phone number and I will find #s of mini folks local to you.
Also, where exactly in Ohio are you.
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Last post: Apr 18, 2012 Member since:Nov 22, 2011
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Hi all, and first off thanks for reading this post!
I'm from Canada and brought my mini down to ohio with me, the car started acting up today. I've put on 1500kms in the past 3 weeks with no issues...
Today I have found it difficult to get into 1st and 2nd gear. With the car off no issue, when idling it requires a little more effort than normal but nothing alarming. However after coming to a stop after driving it is almost impossible to get the car back into any gear. I will cycle the clutch and play with revs until I am able to enter a gate/gear. Clutch pedal engagement feels a lower than normal.
It is a 1990 Rover Mini, 998cc, RHD and 4spd. Is this sign of the clutch fingers wearing on me? or is that the slave cylinder acting up?
I'm mechanically inclined and have built and raced my own rally car (subaru)... however with not much mini experience I am unfamiliar with the clutch design. Doesn't help that I am so far from my home garage to be able to inspect on my own.
All suggestions are VERY appreciated! Thanks in advance.