bleeding twin leading shoe brakes??
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We should probably have this thread stickied for reference.
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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I just want to drop a quick thank you to masal and mehinger.
Long story short, I my brakes replaced on the Moke, front and back. Everything was new, however it braked like crap and the pedal kept going to the floor. I would adjust the brakes and the pedal would be better, but it wouldn't last, to brake in a hurry I had to pump twice.
So, I noticed this tread today, and I read their comment about tightening them in the right direction... Sure enough I checked the the right front tire adjusters, and they had tithen the brake shoes the wrong way. Short test drive later the brake pedal is high and tight. If anything it brakes too hard.
Thanks again, without that clue I would have never guessed it.
Miguel
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WHAT are you trying to do? Saying that will annoy the Mini gods!. robably the first to smite you will be LUCAS, Prince of Darkness!
At least you should be able to stop! (Seriously, I'm glad you've got the brakes sorted.
From the beginning of this thread, each time I read the header, I wondered: "'bleeding' - is the a verb or an expletive?". (Still not sure!)
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017 Member since:Sep 24, 2013
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'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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29mm ???
Heathen.
It's 1-1/8" for a drum brake drivenut.
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'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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Make sure your back brakes are set right. Incorrect ( too loose ) rear brakes result in a lot of pedal travel
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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I put the car back on th ground, and after 4 months on stands got the engine to turn over on the 4th try with a bit of choke. She sounded so happy to be awake. Engine oil was at a decent level despite the slow drip.
Much better feel on the test drive. Pedal stills goes nearly to the floor but the car does stop...eventually. It was late so we stopped for the night but I believe is just need to readjust the front brakes a small bit to get the, to be perfect. The saga is nearly at an end. Next weekend will be exciting
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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Yeah i was coming to the same conclussion. Right now the plan is this
1. Borrow pry bar (i tried pulling with the tire on)
2. If i get the flange out w/o bearings going everywhere replace only brakes. Buyer new bearings kits, rubber suspension parts, new rubber cones.
3. Bring to mechanic for install
If step 2 ends with bearings everywhere...then i guess i learn out to DIY! Again....
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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Yep, can be used. Taper roller bearings are usually for disc brake cars but, can also be used with drums.
Cheers, Diddi
Had to re-think again. The bearing kit in your pictures only shows 1 grease seal, so might be a rear bearing set. In this case, no, it cant´s be used for the front.
You´ll either need: A front ball bearing kit //www.minimania.com/part/GHB1018/Wheel-Bearing-Kit-With-Seals-Front-Mini--Cooper
Or a front taper bearing kit //www.minimania.com/part/GHB143K/Front-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-Roller-Taper-Mini--Mini-Cooper
Cheers, Diddi
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Yep, can be used. Taper roller bearings are usually for disc brake cars but, can also be used with drums.
Cheers, Diddi
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Ah, OK. If the drive spline can be pushed back easily, then the flange is stuck inside the inner or outer wheelbearing inner races. The hub puller in your link will only push back the drive spline which is moving anyways. So it will be of no help...
Sometimes, it helps to install the wheel and pull on that, while rocking it at the same time.
Another option would be to remove the brake shoes and use a prybar with a block of wood against the backplate, to lever the drive flange off / out of the bearings. I guess, you´ll also need new wheel bearings/seals...
Cheers, Diddi
these bearings came in a box of parts with the car. Is it what I need?
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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Ah, OK. If the drive spline can be pushed back easily, then the flange is stuck inside the inner or outer wheelbearing inner races. The hub puller in your link will only push back the drive spline which is moving anyways. So it will be of no help...
Sometimes, it helps to install the wheel and pull on that, while rocking it at the same time.
Another option would be to remove the brake shoes and use a prybar with a block of wood against the backplate, to lever the drive flange off / out of the bearings. I guess, you´ll also need new wheel bearings/seals...
Cheers, Diddi
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Maybe your mechanic installed the drive flange dry or even with a little bit of dirt in the splines. Also some fine surface rust may prevent it from sliding off.
Thread the nut back on until its flush with the CV-drive stub. Give it a few blows with your soft faced mallet.
If that fails, use a soft metal drift (brass or copper, you don´t want to damage the thread) and try it again with a heavy hammer.
If even this fails, try to get a drive flange puller which connects to the wheel studs and presses out the drive shaft CV-joint.
Cheers, Diddi
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Both nuts are off. Just he passenger side drive flange won't slide off the drive spline.
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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Passenger-side flange still stuck. Any ideas to unstick passenger side?
Nut already off or still doesn´t shift even with full body weight? Have you got a heavyweight buddy around?
If not, just "butcher" the nut as i described above with drilling and splitting it with a chisel. If its so tight, it might be due to a damaged thread anyways...
cheers, Diddi
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Went to driver's side to attempt the same.
Bolt came off fine -- used foot (thanks for the tip!). As soon as i removed the bolt and washer, the hub/flange pulled right off without any protest. Passenger-side flange still stuck. Any ideas to unstick passenger side?
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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The angle of the bar used to lock the flange is too steep. Use a longer one or position it on the other side of the socket to get a less steep angle.
Position the breaker bar with the socket, keep youself steady at the rain gutter and then step onto the breaker bar "extension" with your full weight.
Be carefull as the 1/2" square might shear!!!
If this fails to shift the nut, try an air impact wrench if you have a compressor. There are also electric impact drivers availlable that have plenty of power.
Or get at torque multiplier: //www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-MULTIPLIER-6800NM-LABOR-SAVING-LUG-WRENCH-1-58-5015FT-LB-2-SOCKETS-W-CASE-/121581758183
This has enough output torque to even break the cv-joint but will require a 1" drive socket.
There´s another way to get the nut of, but this will damage the nut.
Use a 3mm 1/8" drill bit and drill into one castellation, in parallel to the thread. Do the same 180° oposite. Use a chisel on the flat of the nut directly at the bore and split the nut to widen it...
Cheers, Diddi