× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 185 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10

 Posted: Apr 18, 2015 02:30PM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

We should probably have this thread stickied for reference.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 18, 2015 01:47PM
Total posts: 1179
Last post: Jan 22, 2021
Member since:Jul 31, 2008
Cars in Garage: 5
Photos: 107
WorkBench Posts: 3
CA

I just want to drop a quick thank you to masal and mehinger.

Long story short, I my brakes replaced on the Moke, front and back. Everything was new, however it braked like crap and the pedal kept going to the floor. I would adjust the brakes and the pedal would be better, but it wouldn't last, to brake in a hurry I had to pump twice.

So, I noticed this tread today, and I read their comment about tightening them in the right direction... Sure enough I checked the the right front tire adjusters, and they had tithen the brake shoes the wrong way. Short test drive later the brake pedal is high and tight. If anything it brakes too hard.

Thanks again, without that clue I would have never guessed it.

Miguel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 18, 2015 08:40AM
 Edited:  Apr 18, 2015 08:43AM
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyinace2000
I re-adjusted the front and back brakes and MY CAR STOPS!!!!! Still might need some slight adjustmnet to be perfect, but it is NIGHT and DAY different from october. My saga is now complete. My goal now is to not look at anything to hard cause it will probably break and need replacing :-) Summer driving here we come.

WHAT are you trying to do? Saying that will annoy the Mini gods!. robably the first to smite you will be LUCAS, Prince of Darkness!

At least you should be able to stop! (Seriously, I'm glad you've got the brakes sorted.

From the beginning of this thread, each time I read the header, I wondered: "'bleeding' - is the a verb or an expletive?". (Still not sure!)

 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 18, 2015 07:38AM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I re-adjusted the front and back brakes and MY CAR STOPS!!!!! Still might need some slight adjustmnet to be perfect, but it is NIGHT and DAY different from october. My saga is now complete. My goal now is to not look at anything to hard cause it will probably break and need replacing :-) Summer driving here we come.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 13, 2015 12:53PM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
That was a February problem, we are in May now :-)

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 13, 2015 12:16PM
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024
Member since:Mar 24, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
GB

29mm ???

Heathen.
It's 1-1/8" for a drum brake drivenut.

 Posted: Apr 13, 2015 11:18AM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
It's been a while, but I will re-check them to be certain.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 13, 2015 06:46AM
Total posts: 13978
Last post: Jan 15, 2024
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 381
WorkBench Posts: 1
CA


Make sure your back brakes are set right.  Incorrect ( too loose ) rear brakes result in a lot of pedal travel

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 13, 2015 06:36AM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I'm back. Suspension is back together and new brakes are installed. We re bled the whole system and no pedal feel. Did it again and found way more air. So we bled doing the pedal method until we had no more bubbles, the pressure bled again and the did a 20 second count after the last bubble before moving to the next corner.

I put the car back on th ground, and after 4 months on stands got the engine to turn over on the 4th try with a bit of choke. She sounded so happy to be awake. Engine oil was at a decent level despite the slow drip.

Much better feel on the test drive. Pedal stills goes nearly to the floor but the car does stop...eventually. It was late so we stopped for the night but I believe is just need to readjust the front brakes a small bit to get the, to be perfect. The saga is nearly at an end. Next weekend will be exciting

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Mar 1, 2015 11:31AM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Yeah i was coming to the same conclussion. Right now the plan is this

 

1. Borrow pry bar (i tried pulling with the tire on)

2. If i get the flange out w/o bearings going everywhere replace only brakes. Buyer new bearings kits, rubber suspension parts, new rubber cones.

3. Bring to mechanic for install

 

If step 2 ends with bearings everywhere...then i guess i learn out to DIY!  Again....

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Mar 1, 2015 11:27AM
HOT
Total posts: 37
Last post: May 25, 2015
Member since:Dec 26, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOT

Yep, can be used. Taper roller bearings are usually for disc brake cars but, can also be used with drums.

 

Cheers, Diddi

Had to re-think again. The bearing kit in your pictures only shows 1 grease seal, so might be a rear bearing set. In this case, no, it cant´s be used for the front.

You´ll either need: A front ball bearing kit //www.minimania.com/part/GHB1018/Wheel-Bearing-Kit-With-Seals-Front-Mini--Cooper

Or a front taper bearing kit //www.minimania.com/part/GHB143K/Front-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-Roller-Taper-Mini--Mini-Cooper

Cheers, Diddi

 Posted: Mar 1, 2015 02:19AM
HOT
Total posts: 37
Last post: May 25, 2015
Member since:Dec 26, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Yep, can be used. Taper roller bearings are usually for disc brake cars but, can also be used with drums.

 

Cheers, Diddi

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 02:10PM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Image Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOT

Ah, OK. If the drive spline can be pushed back easily, then the flange is stuck inside the inner or outer wheelbearing inner races. The hub puller in your link will only push back the drive spline which is moving anyways. So it will be of no help...

Sometimes, it helps to install the wheel and pull on that, while rocking it at the same time.

Another option would be to remove the brake shoes and use a prybar with a block of wood against the backplate, to lever the drive flange off / out of the bearings. I guess, you´ll also need new wheel bearings/seals...

Cheers, Diddi

 

these bearings came in a box of parts with the car. Is it what I need? 

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 01:27PM
HOT
Total posts: 37
Last post: May 25, 2015
Member since:Dec 26, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Ah, OK. If the drive spline can be pushed back easily, then the flange is stuck inside the inner or outer wheelbearing inner races. The hub puller in your link will only push back the drive spline which is moving anyways. So it will be of no help...

Sometimes, it helps to install the wheel and pull on that, while rocking it at the same time.

Another option would be to remove the brake shoes and use a prybar with a block of wood against the backplate, to lever the drive flange off / out of the bearings. I guess, you´ll also need new wheel bearings/seals...

Cheers, Diddi

 

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 01:02PM
 Edited:  Feb 28, 2015 01:03PM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

This is the part that is stuck.  Driver side came off super easy.  assenger side. Stuck.

 

//www.amazon.com/OTC-7208A-Front-Installer-Puller/dp/B0002SRF6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425139533&sr=8-2&keywords=front+wheel+drive+hub+puller

 

Do i need one of these?

The drive spline moves pretty freely back and forth.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 01:01PM
HOT
Total posts: 37
Last post: May 25, 2015
Member since:Dec 26, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Maybe your mechanic installed the drive flange dry or even with a little bit of dirt in the splines. Also some fine surface rust may prevent it from sliding off.

Thread the nut back on until its flush with the CV-drive stub. Give it a few blows with your soft faced mallet.

If that fails, use a soft metal drift (brass or copper, you don´t want to damage the thread) and try it again with a heavy hammer.

If even this fails, try to get a drive flange puller which connects to the wheel studs and presses out the drive shaft CV-joint.

 

Cheers, Diddi

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 12:44PM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Both nuts are off. Just he passenger side drive flange won't slide off the drive spline. 

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 12:39PM
HOT
Total posts: 37
Last post: May 25, 2015
Member since:Dec 26, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyinace2000

Passenger-side flange still stuck. Any ideas to unstick passenger side? 

 

Nut already off or still doesn´t shift even with full body weight? Have you got a heavyweight buddy around?

If not, just "butcher" the nut as i described above with drilling and splitting it with a chisel. If its so tight, it might be due to a damaged thread anyways...

 

cheers, Diddi

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 08:31AM
Total posts: 440
Last post: May 2, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Went to driver's side to attempt the same. 

Bolt came off fine -- used foot (thanks for the tip!). As soon as i removed the bolt and washer, the hub/flange pulled right off without any protest. Passenger-side flange still stuck. Any ideas to unstick passenger side? 

 

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 07:59AM
HOT
Total posts: 37
Last post: May 25, 2015
Member since:Dec 26, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

The angle of the bar used to lock the flange is too steep. Use a longer one or position it on the other side of the socket to get a less steep angle.

Position the breaker bar with the socket, keep youself steady at the rain gutter and then step onto the breaker bar "extension" with your full weight.

Be carefull as the 1/2" square might shear!!!

 

If this fails to shift the nut, try an air impact wrench if you have a compressor. There are also electric impact drivers availlable that have plenty of power.

Or get at torque multiplier: //www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-MULTIPLIER-6800NM-LABOR-SAVING-LUG-WRENCH-1-58-5015FT-LB-2-SOCKETS-W-CASE-/121581758183

This has enough output torque to even break the cv-joint Cool but will require a 1" drive socket.

There´s another way to get the nut of, but this will damage the nut.

Use a 3mm 1/8" drill bit and drill into one castellation, in parallel to the thread. Do the same 180° oposite. Use a chisel on the flat of the nut directly at the bore and split the nut to widen it...

 

Cheers, Diddi

Found 185 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10