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 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 07:23AM
 Edited:  Feb 28, 2015 07:32AM
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Like magic, my next try the bolt slowly came off!  Just a bit of constant pressure at the right angle i guess.  I took off the bolt and washer, is anything else holding on that hub?  

 

Do i need this?

//www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Puller-Front-Wheel-Drive-Hub-Puller/_/R-BK_7768017_0006392273

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 28, 2015 07:01AM
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Still no luck. Any ideas

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 07:29PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minibitz

Also torque settings you quoted are for disc brake CV joints. Should only be 60ftlb on a drum brake CV. 

Good to know.  I can handle thatnwith my torque wrench once I get these bloody nuts off.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 07:23PM
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Also torque settings you quoted are for disc brake CV joints. Should only be 60ftlb on a drum brake CV. 

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 07:02PM
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Yes lefty loosey.............

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 03:01PM
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So my 29mm socket is 1/2" drive. My breakerbar is 3/8".  I put nearly all my weight on the ratched, and didn't get the castle nut to move.  It is lefty loosey, righ...i mean.... correct?  Otherwise, i am back off to Sears to get a 1/2" drive breaker bar...and if that doesn't work Harbor Freight to get an air drive impact wrench damnit.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 11:53AM
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OK he probably used an air gun to tighten them up.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 11:44AM
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Fronts were originally installed by a local mechanic.  I'm in full DIY mode now

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 11:42AM
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If you don't have an air gun use a breaker bar with a pipe extension if you have to. You can put a long breaker bar or steel bar between the wheel studs at a push but put the wheel nuts on them to stop any thread damage, rest the other end on the floor to stop everything turning but be careful you can bend the studs.

Didn't you have the hub off before when you installed the backplates ? Presuming you are working on the fronts again.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 11:33AM
 Edited:  Feb 14, 2015 11:34AM
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So how do I get this castle nut off?  I have a 29mm socket, the car is in first gear, and the opposite brake is adjusted so the wheel is locked.  I think the Haynes manual says that the driveshaft retainer nut w/ multiple split pin holes is 153lb/ft and the single hole is 188-199.  Do I just need to try harder?

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 07:13AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinovdv

Flyingace2000, I have been following this thread like a mad man, as I have been having similar problems.  I just replaced another brake line and rebuilt a rear wheel cylinder, with no loss of brake fluid in a week ( to speak of!). A complete restoration is required but these cars are just too much fun to drive! Any update on your search for a solid pedal?

Heading to the garage now with new parts in hand, be back soon

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Feb 14, 2015 06:59AM
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Flyingace2000, I have been following this thread like a mad man, as I have been having similar problems.  I just replaced another brake line and rebuilt a rear wheel cylinder, with no loss of brake fluid in a week ( to speak of!). A complete restoration is required but these cars are just too much fun to drive! Any update on your search for a solid pedal?

 Posted: Feb 7, 2015 12:53PM
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Can't be any fairer than that. It pays to shop at well known long standing businesses especially when problems like these arise.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 7, 2015 11:23AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal

I would ask your supplier of the backplates for some replacement ones. If you are having this much trouble now they are not going to be any better down the road that's for sure.

7Ent and I came to a great solution this week.  They have a set of known good factory back plates that they were going to send me.  Instead they said they would clean them up and then build everything on to them for me (shoes, springs, hoses) and give me a return label for the defective parts.  FedEx should deliver them some time this week and I hope to do the install next weekend.  

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Jan 31, 2015 07:28PM
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I would ask your supplier of the backplates for some replacement ones. If you are having this much trouble now they are not going to be any better down the road that's for sure.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 31, 2015 04:11PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOT

Did you allready tighten up the seats of the adjusters using a centerpunch? If yes, then it was not enough!

The wiggeling adjuster is definitely still far too loose.

After tightening the seat, the adjuster should be "just turnable" with an open end spanner.

The correct tool would be a square box end wrench... //www.minimania.com/part/660510/Brake-Adjustment-Wrench ..., because the open end spanner is usually not really capable to move the adjuster and sometimes slips, wearing the the square until round and becoming useless...

Keeping that in mind, it´s easy to imagine, how tight it should be...Wink

 

Cheers, Diddi

No this is still pre-center punch.  I'll pull them off next weekend and try that.  We are going skiing tomorrow.  

Mine are way loser and i can adjust them by hand when there is no pressure on them.  

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Jan 31, 2015 04:08PM
HOT
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Did you allready tighten up the seats of the adjusters using a centerpunch? If yes, then it was not enough!

The wiggeling adjuster is definitely still far too loose.

After tightening the seat, the adjuster should be "just turnable" with an open end spanner.

The correct tool would be a square box end wrench... //www.minimania.com/part/660510/Brake-Adjustment-Wrench ..., because the open end spanner is usually not really capable to move the adjuster and sometimes slips, wearing the the square until round and becoming useless...

Keeping that in mind, it´s easy to imagine, how tight it should be...Wink

 

Cheers, Diddi

 Posted: Jan 31, 2015 02:53PM
 Edited:  Jan 31, 2015 03:48PM
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Alright MORE UPDATES.  

  1. Set adjusters so that all 4 wheels were locked
  2. Re-re-re-bled the system.  This time i had my wife pump the pedal for the first round (all 4 corners in order the manual states), then we used the Gunsen EZBleed to pressure bleed (again all 4 corners).  Got all the air out i swear.
  3. Pedal feel was good.  It wasn't rock hard, but we had consistant pressure from the top until about 2/3rds of the way to the floor where it stopped.
  4. Next we to adjust the wheels to road use.  Adjusted the rears first, retested.  Same pressure.
  5. Adjusted the driver side and the same symptons returned.  After about 4 or 5 pumps to the floor.
  6. Just like before the front adjuster (the lower one not the higher one) is wiggleing out of adjustment.  See video below.  The symptons are exactly the same on the passenger side. 
  7. If I adjust, then hold the adjuster with my wrench the pedal feels fine and it does not go out of adjustment (this isolates the top/rear adjuster as being the issue).

Something else i just noticed on the video.  The lower adjuster wiggles back and forth.  The top adjust does move but it a straight in/out motion resulting in it NOT moving out of adjustment on its own.

 

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Jan 31, 2015 07:49AM
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Just bled and readjusted the system. No pedal feel, no even after a few pumps. I then maxed out each adjuster to wheel lock and still no feel or buildup of pressure.  please check my palm of attack

 

  1. check system for leaks.
  2. buy more fluid and bleed again

also, I haven't tried to fix my front adjusters yet. I wantEd to test at each step of my repair to rule things out one at a time.  Finally, brake fluid is getting expensive. If I a just flushing it through the system can I reuse it?

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 11:09AM
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Image Gallery

BOOM

 

Contiplating bleeding and re-evaluating, but might as well take off the fronts to fix the adjusters before i bleed.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

Found 185 Messages

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