This is a fantastic example/illustration of why a bolt/screw is not an acceptable substitute for having the correct clevis pins installed. 

Good job!

I put the whole thing back together with some new clevis pins (that I made!) and it works fine.  So the bolt WAS causing the problem.

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The pedal is out.  It doesn't look ovaled.  I wonder if the threads that have been cut into the hole by the bolt (in place of the clevis pin) was interfering with the treads on the bolt and that was clicking?

Hi,

Here is another video.  You may be able to see that there is some slop in the connection where the clevis pin is supposed to be.   I say supposed to be because there is a bolt in there instead of the pin.  The only way to get the bolt out is to take the pedal assembly down.  How involved is that? If I take the 2 bolts out that hold it to the lower dash will it drop down enough for me to get at that bolt?  Will I wreck something by taking those 2 bolts out?

video:   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSnzHMeareQ

Dartfork, my clutch pedal was making the same noise. It turned out (like Steve said) to be the hole the clevis goes through at the pedal was worn. I had to weld it and re-drill the hole. There are bushings in the pedal also that can be replaced. Move the pedal and see if there is play at clevis pin and pedal. Todd

It could be the split pin catching on the firewall or the clutch/brake arm return spring inside the pedal box may have broken and is catching when you push the clutch probably not noticeable with the brake as it does not move as much, whatever it is it does sound like it is coming from the pedal box and will probably need removing to repair. Before you do that take out the front seat and remove the fresh air hose and lay down with a good flashlight to see if you can diagnose it.

The on on top was causing the problem. Because it is a fulcrum/lever, a small amount of movement or wear can have a pretty dramatic impact. It may be hard to see with the cylinder arm over the end.

Hi,

Its an 81 Clubman Estate (RHD).  As you can see in the video, mine also seems mechanical, but there isn't much to see at the spring.

What year is your car? There are a few different setps depending on LHD or RHD.

It really is easier to see if you take the seat out, get you head down there and use a couple of flashlights or a head beam. If it is in the pedal pivot point or cylinder arm you will see the movement.

My issue was mechanical and not hydraulic related.

My clutch pedal just started clicking.  It occurs during the first 1.5 inches of travel.   It just started happening, it wasn't something that gradually got worse.  Upon depressing the pedal sometimes it just feels like the pedal arm is loose.  Sometimes it feels like it is clacking against something.  The noise sounds like it is in the car (in the footwell) , not by the slave cylinder in the engine bay.

I made a video of the noise here: //youtu.be/QIXkR0faDiE 

Anyone have any idea if it is the same problem tmsmith had/has?

My books are at the shop and computer at home. I'll look at the latest Haynes I have and see if it's in there. I removed the lower pad for the junk shelf and could look down on it. My car is earlier than the cross over tube. I had to modify my heater mounts to clear the tube. I also have very late shell at shop and could see the changes factory made. Never thought I'd have one but I'm cool with it now. Steve (CTR)

I stuck my head down there and watched with a mirror, it is all in the pedal pivot point. I removed the front seat to make it easier to view.

I also watched from the slave end as my wife actuated the clutch. The movement is consistent with no hesitation on the clutch and slave end.

Still not clear on how the cross over comes apart.

Is it covered in one of the manuals? I have at least one to cover most years, but I am not finding it in the brakes section where I thought it would be.

Son Alex will be looking for the keys to his mini in the next couple of years. In prep. I installed the cross over tube and boosted brakes. I agree it works much easier with the heater out of your way. I have welded up and redrilled pedals to inprove the clevis fit. Installing the pins in the system is no fun. I still try to grease the push rod, pedal and pin before installing. Steve (CTR)

it sounds like you need a new rubber clutch hose, i have had this happen before, it was the clutch hose, it seperated the inner layers of rubber and this made the fluid slow to return to the clutch master

Issue turns out to be an elongated pivot hole in the pedal itself.

The new clevis pins seems to have a larger diameter hole for the split pin and the split pin was moving along with the extra movement from the elongated pivot hole. The split pin would catch slightly on the body and then the spring or vibration would push it the rest of the way.

It looks like replacing the pedal arm with the crossover is a real pain. Heater out and releasing the the pivot at the combo servo/master cylinder? Then remove the cross over arm?

Terry

Do you feel the clutch is grabbing late as well? Is the thump you are hearing the clutch actually grabbing?

Reason I ask is that I have a similar problem...and I have dont ALL the same things:-) I rebuilt both clutch master and slave (there was nothing wrong with mine but I wanted fresh rubber in there while out) as well as a Goodrich hose. My clutch grabs hard but it seems to be not as "fresh" as it should feel.

I am going to try and spray it all down with WD or the like and see if that helps. I havent driven the car much at all over the last 6 years. 1500 miles in total and with lots of time inbetween:-) BUT guess what I was driving tonight!!!!

The current problem is with the clutch. But when I had the engine out for some unscheduled mantenance of a pot joint I took the opportunity to replace the fancy brake clevis pins and the clutch components in the cover. This was in addition to replacing the clutch  slave and rebuilding the clutch master.

The pedal box with the fancy cross over bar is slightly different and I wondered if I neglected to replace a nylon bushed clevis pin at the clutch pedal pivot, but it looks like that uses the standard clevis pin.

I will investigate more this weekend.

Terry

It may be that simple, but you may eventually have to remove the clutch cover, to remove the shaft that presses on the throw out

bearing. It seizes with age and needs only to be removed,(cover off), cleaned up from crud corosion, and coated with the slightest amount of grease to keep from oxidizing.

leave out the # 8'oclock bolt (lower left) on clutch cover. saves time, not needed.

.......

The one with the cross over tube is the brake. There is a spring on the bell crank to the frame work. That one needs to be there. Is the issue brake or clutch? Steve (CTR)

Great ideas that I will check.

This is one of those fancy late model setups with the crossover bar.

I replaced the brake clevis pins with the nylon bushings, but it appears that nothing that fancy is used on the pedal side.

Terry