Another problem with modern timing lights with the induction type pick ups is they don't like old fashioned HT wires! being a vintage restorer I see lots of old cars fitted with period correct wire set's and my modern Snap-On light does not like it, intermittent flash or just no flash. So I just reach for the vintage timing light and alls well with the world again.

OH! and +1 for setting timing at max advance at 4 to 5,000 RPM it matters not a jot what the timing is at idle! it's not going to ping at idle but if you get it wrong at higher RPM under load thats when you are going to melt pistons or plugs and going for the absolute max timing you can is fine but stop and think for second, is that extra 1 or 2 horse power on a road car worth the risk of a burnt out motor? It's not to me

there have been two comments in this thread about sporadic or fluttering operation of the timing strobe.

This is not a dizzy position problem, but something else - I found this problem when I tried to use my several decades old timing light. Using it on a points system worked fine, but using it on a 65DM4 electronic ignition, well, it just fluttered and intermittently flashed, and gave a very broad and useless image of the moving timing mark.

Apparently the bulb was not fast enough, or some other reason, related to a difference in the ignition. Switching to a new timing probe solved the problem. Nice sharp, stable strobe image.

I agree with the use of dialback lights, I have an Equus and it works just fine.

Make sure you remove the vac line to the dizzy (if fitted) when setting timing. Otherwise the timing will be miles out.

Another +1 for setting the timing above 4K RPM using max advance in the distributor.  One thing to check tho is that full advance is reached in the dizzy with the RPM you are using, I had always used around 4K RPM until I learned that the Aldon Red dizzy I have doesn't reach full advance until 5K RPM!  On that engine with that dizzy, I now use 5K RPM to set the timing.

Thanks...

Not sure what TTT is? Anything?

ttt

So I went through two different timing lights from Amazon. The brand was Equus, both would not work using the advance. I ended up getting a 29.99 Harborfreight special. Worked like a charm. So in the end I went from 5@1000 rpm to 12@1000rpm. And 24@4000rpm to 29@4000rpm. Fuel consumption is up and heat levels have dropped. Probably not perfect but definitley a great improvement. Thanks everyone for your help and input.

X 2 what Doug said. Your base timing setting does not mean that much in the realm of things as the engine spends very little time there when driving, the max advance is more important and where the damage starts when it is wrong.

Yes... in general and to a point.  The factory specs for timing our cars won't necessarily apply all these years later following engine rebuilds/mods and changes in fuel chemistry.

One method you can work with later (when you are more comfortable with the idea) is to bring the engine speed up to about 4k RPM using the idle screw(s).  With the engine running at that speed, set your advance type timing light to 32 degrees and turn the distributor body to line up the "zero" timing marks.  Then lock the distributor down, return the car to its normal idle speed and test drive the car.  Try accelerating uphill in too high a gear.  In this test drive you are intentionally trying to make the engine knock and ping.  If you hear any ugly engine noises, stop immediately and retard the timing by about 2 degrees and repeat your test drive.  When you no longer hear any knocking or pinging you have set the engine's maximum ignition advance for its current condition and the fuel you are using.  

regarding my original question! just for future reference, in my case the problem was the timing chain. I did many miles with a broken tensioner and even though i replaced it! seems like the chain is worn and messes the timing!

The timing light I was using was a little sporattic working the other day. I was told 10 at idle 900RPM, I double checked with a friends light and am at 8-9. I was gonna retry to night again to hit 10. It is running smooth at 65mph from what "I" hear. CooperTune, you say 15. Is is correct that the further advanced you can get it the better. Working on cars is all new to me, I'm learning real fast.

Been watching this but staying out of it. It seems as dizzys are made who knows where by who knows who drive dogs being on backwards is common. Just a suggestion but I'd try 15 degrees at idle with vacuum plugged. Steve (CTR)

Guilty as charged... My comment was specifically directed at your comment below about "repositioned one hair counterclockwise..." and the inference that changing this then allowed your car to start.  The only reason you care about whether its 1 or 7oclock is to connect the correct plug lead to wherever its pointing....

Cheers, Ian

Ian, Not sure if your comments were directed towards me, the rest of the community, or you were just providing useful information. The reason I rotated the distributor drive shaft was that I bought a brand new distributor. My old one had the rotor at 1 o'clock. The new one was at 7 o'clock do to the fact the drive dogs on the new distributor were 180 degreees out. 

I don't know why people find it so hard to understand that moving the distributor drive has absolutely zero effect on engine timing....  If you do remove the distributor then you WILL need to retime it it - even if this only involves lining up the witness marks you have previously installed.... and if you moved the drive mechanism then your witness marks are no longer any use...

If the engine won't start - and you decide the timing is a problem - then setting the timing properly DOES NOT involve fiddling with the dizzie drive shaft...

To time the engine you set the timing marks (set flywheel or front pulley) as required (ie rotate engine until required mark lines up with the pointer - with the engine basically near TDc on the compression stroke).  Then rotate the distributor until the points just open (use a small test light to find the exact point). 

BTW - if you use electronic points you can sometimes use a small radio to find the firing point.  Tune the radio off station so that you get a nice steady steam of static.  As the system fires you should get a nice burst of noise....

If this is all a bit new, fiddle around a bit before you start...  You need to make sure you have the distributor in roughly the right place and that you are rotating it in the right direction to emulate the rotation of the shaft/ rotor button.... (which will actually remain staionary during the procedure...)

Cheers, Ian

So, I did not pull the valve cover but did double check and double check again, #1 was on the compression/firing stroke, and 4 was on the exhaust..... I decided to rotate the distributor drive shaft 180 degrees. I eneded up welding 2ea 3" 5/16-24 bolts together and walla, out came the distributor drive shaft, came out smooth as butta...... Re-installed the drive shaft 180 degrees and attempted to fired up the Mayfair, NUTTIN!!! Once again, checked everything over, All was spot on. Still nothing!!! So I pulled everything again and the drive shaft seemed to be pointing to much to the 2-3 o'clock position. Re-positioned one hair counter clockwise, now it's pointed at 12:30-1 O'clock. Went to fire it up and BANG, purring like a kitten. The company that re-built the engiine 10 yrs ago said to set the timing at 10 advanced at 900 RPM. Took her for a run, slowly getting up to 60 mph, she sounds good. Will let some friends listen to her over the next few days and get their opinion.WooHoo. Happy as a clam...............................

Like Doug says, check you have No 1 at TDC on the firing stroke...

Then, your first option will work.

Your second option will work - and be neat.

Your third option may work (I've never pulled the bottom off a dizzie) - but I can't see why you'd try that when Option 2 (or 1) solves the problem..

Cheers, Ian

Before moving anything, confirm that #1 is not just at TDC but is at TDC on its firing stroke.  #1 and #4 will be at TDC at the same time so the rocker arm check is the best way to confirm what part of the cylce you are at.   With the "zero" timing marks lined up, remove the valve cover and grab the rocker arms for cylinder #1.  If #1 is on its firing stroke the rocker arms will be "loose".  You should be able to wiggle them.  If the rocker arms are tight (valve springs are compressed) then you have #4 on its firing stroke.  If that is what you discover, turn the engine over one complete turn until the timing marks line up again and #1's arms are loose.  The dizzy drive will have rotated 180 degrees for the full revolution you made turning the crank.