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 Posted: Dec 31, 2015 11:38AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armycook

Ratchet tie down straps.. Took my two front seats out and compressed it so it will easily be fitted inside the pockets without hitting the side walls and window side glass in the back. Be careful unlocking it. I had towels on the side to prevent it from hitting the window glass when I unlocked it.

If you are going to use this Mini for motorsports then you will need to weld the mounting plates for the roll bar/cage to the floor. For the plates for the mail hoop you will need to open up the rear bins for access to the floor to weld in these plates and drill the mounting holes. As mentioned, a rachet strap is required to get the main hoop past the door openings.

 Posted: Dec 29, 2015 08:57AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasabi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud

What is your headliner? Is that the underside of a carbon fiber roof?

It IS a carbon fiber roof. Thanks for noticing!  Laughing

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Dec 29, 2015 05:55AM
 Edited:  Dec 29, 2015 05:57AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud

What is your headliner? Is that the underside of a carbon fiber roof?

 


1988 Rover Mini E-99X (JDM)

 Posted: Dec 28, 2015 05:33PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 61MiniMe

 This is a Safety Devices roll bar with a custom harness mount bar installed. I must say I feel much safer now...

Another vote for Safety Devices. Nice fit, no blind spots, well anchored and looks robust enough. Of course, I didn't have to wrestle it into place myself (thanks Mike & Nick!).

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Dec 25, 2015 06:11PM
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Thanks all for your reply!!

 Posted: Dec 25, 2015 02:50AM
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Ratchet tie down straps.. Took my two front seats out and compressed it so it will easily be fitted inside the pockets without hitting the side walls and window side glass in the back. Be careful unlocking it. I had towels on the side to prevent it from hitting the window glass when I unlocked it.

 

 Posted: Dec 24, 2015 01:26PM
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i have a 1978 mini and I did get the roll cage into the car but I was wondering if there was an angle or a way to get it into the buckets on the side.  There are like pockets on the side of the rear seats.

 Posted: Dec 24, 2015 12:32PM
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US

You're working on a classic Mini?  The fellow above has a current one, is why I ask.  Some cages like Safety Devices for the old Minis must be cinched tighter in order to install them into those seat pockets.  It's much easier if you have some tie downs and a helper but once the main hoop clears the door pillars, you loosen the straps to allow the bar to expand to it's normal width.  It fits like a glove and is very close to the sides and roof.

 Posted: Dec 24, 2015 10:21AM
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I'm trying to get my roll bar in but having a hard time getting the roll bar into the buckets on the side of the rear seats.  im thinking of removing them...  Have anyone done this and what would be the best way?

 Posted: Apr 21, 2014 12:36PM
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US

The BRracing cage looks nice but I would check with where ever you plan on racing as something strikes me odd. The rear section of the cage does not link in anyway to the rear strut towers?? I'm not expert but more then a few organisations usually dont want to see that type of config. Also, you are really missing out on the added structual benefits from tying the cage into the cars mare structure points. In theory, you would still benefit from adding a rear strut tower brace as your cage does nothing to stiffen. Is the idea that is only mounts to factory holes or something?

 Posted: Apr 20, 2014 03:55PM
 Edited:  Apr 20, 2014 04:51PM
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I’ve been looking on the internet for a roll bar for my 09 JCW Mini.Not wanting to do anything that might de-value my works car I was fortunate to discover BRracing. They offer a complete bolt in unit which interested me.I contacted BRracing,spoke with Robb who explained the necessary steps for installation.Long story short,I ordered the roll bar in the color I wanted (powder coated).I have just finished the installation and very please with the out come. The quality of workmanship and finish is outstanding. The installation took a little time (4 hours but I'm really paticular) but not too difficult and the way the unit mounts is very well thought out.That old saying “you get what you pay for” once again stands true.Check out their web site.Good pictures. 

 

 

 

 Posted: Aug 19, 2013 06:51AM
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Thanks to everybody
have learn lot from your posts, driving  Mini change for sure DNK.

regards Pred

 Posted: Aug 17, 2013 07:20PM
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The closer your head is to steel, the less impact it will take to cause the same amount of damage to your head.

Good luck and don't carry passengers.

Kelley

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

 Posted: Aug 16, 2013 01:31PM
jeg
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If the topic is still relevant, here's my FIA cage with removable 'X' and removable harness bar.  I'd bought the door bars separately, so they're now painted.  I've also installed FIA padding to the main hoop and along the 'roof bars' to just forward of the 'B' pillars. 

At 6'2" tall, my head was already rather close to the steel bodyshell roof and 'B' pillars, so I don't feel bad about driving without a helmet on the roads.  With or without a cage, it's gonna hurt.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Aug 16, 2013 07:58AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 61MiniMe

Spank, thanks for clarifying the allowable degrees for the shoulder harness mount as I've read different opinions here - good to know!

 

Now if a lap belt will keep one from ending up in the foot well then why won't a 4 point harness when two of the points are virtually a lap belt? The two lower belts of my 4 point belts go through the Corbeau seats pretty close to even with the bottom of my legs so I can't see my bottom squeezing up and under the belts into the foot well.

And yes it is true that when driving on the street I don't tighten the 4 point belts down like I do on the track!

The problem with a harness vs lap belt:

With a lap belt, your torso folds over, and the stop momentum is eaten by your body hinging forward (and your torso hitting the steering wheel, whatever, still not great).

However, a 4 point harness, your torso is held upright. All the from stopping power is absorbed by your shoulders on the belt, and your butt on the seat. So, half of your stopping is done by friction of your butt against the seat. Since you don't fold over forward, you end up sliding out under the seat belt.

 Posted: Aug 16, 2013 06:30AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 61MiniMe

Spank, thanks for clarifying the allowable degrees for the shoulder harness mount as I've read different opinions here - good to know!

 

Now if a lap belt will keep one from ending up in the foot well then why won't a 4 point harness when two of the points are virtually a lap belt? The two lower belts of my 4 point belts go through the Corbeau seats pretty close to even with the bottom of my legs so I can't see my bottom squeezing up and under the belts into the foot well.

And yes it is true that when driving on the street I don't tighten the 4 point belts down like I do on the track!

The factory seatbelt retracts to fit snug against your body, and won't stretch when you're in a collision. A racing harness needs to be tightened against your body because it doesn't retract on its own. If you're leaving the belts loose, they're not going to hold you in place.
A used 5 or 6 point harness can be found all day on ebay for under a hundred bucks.

 Posted: Aug 15, 2013 10:19PM
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US

Spank, thanks for clarifying the allowable degrees for the shoulder harness mount as I've read different opinions here - good to know!

 

Now if a lap belt will keep one from ending up in the foot well then why won't a 4 point harness when two of the points are virtually a lap belt? The two lower belts of my 4 point belts go through the Corbeau seats pretty close to even with the bottom of my legs so I can't see my bottom squeezing up and under the belts into the foot well.

And yes it is true that when driving on the street I don't tighten the 4 point belts down like I do on the track!

 Posted: Aug 15, 2013 08:17PM
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CA

I have a Safety Devices, six point bolt in cage that was run in a SOVREN vintage Mini. It is surplus to my needs as I have installed a custom cage. asking $300 plus shipping if anyone is interested.

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Aug 15, 2013 08:41AM
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Most people find 4 and 5 point harnesses too uncomfortable to use properly tightened on the street. The standard 3 point seat belt has the advantage of relative comfort and it pulls a person's hips down and rearward as the upper body moves forward. This helps keep the body relatively in place in the cabin. The 4 and 5 point harnesses are designed to strap the driver in place. If they're not tight they're not working.

Kelley

 

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

 Posted: Aug 14, 2013 01:14PM
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Also, most harnesses are not generally DOT approved as street legal. You can get some flack from the law about that, as far as I know.

In some searching around, I've seen one 4 point harness that is DOT approved (and no 5 point harness that I've found).

//www.schrothracing.com/competition/profi-asm/profi-II-asm

As a 4 point harness, it has one shoulder designed to stretch more than the other, so instead of submarining, it lets your torso twist and fold over a bit instead. I'm sure there are others out there, but some searching a few months ago (We are considering getting the LeMons corvair street legal to simplify parking, and moving it from one house to the other). 

I think our latest idea is to add a DOT approved lap belt loosely over the top of our 5 point harness, since we don't have a suitable place to mount a 3 point seat belt.

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