"....but not good for lasting more than about 10 years."

I don't know whether its weather conditions or what but I would suggest most cars in Oz are still running their original cones.

A while ago I replaced the 50 year cones in my car with some 40 year old items from my parts car.  The original items were "OK" but more oriented to handling... my Daughter's 75 Clubman had a better ride and that's pretty much how the swap has worked out.

I think 10 years is a bit of an under-estimate.  And going on people's comments, old OEM is better than new FGKW (from God knows where

Cheers, Ian

That's because your rubber cones were shot (compressed permanently) -if you were to install new rubber cones you'd need the compressor to get them in.

This is the downside to using rubber springs, rubber suffers from hysteresis (they don't spring back completely after having been compressed). Perfectly fine for a short lived economy car, and they work GREAT for competition driving (low mass, small packaging size, very progressive spring rate, much more so than what can be achieved with steel springs), but not good for lasting more than about 10 years.

Norm

Thanks. Interesting process, although I have to admit that in twice assembling my front suspension I have yet to find a need for the compression tool. Just used a pry bar from below.

The aluminum springs seats go between the springs and the hi-lo trumpets. 

Here's some instructions: HOW TO INSTALL COILS

I forgot to mention that, I cut two  rubber washers from rubber sheet stock, for each spring and double sided taped them to the springs. probably not necessary, just isolating them. richard, from your pics of your hilos, I would see if they fit the inside of the springs nicely without slop . if they do fit nice, I would not use the metal rings.

Not to confuse things but some of the coil springs require a metal "donut" to fit properly in either the hilo trumpet or original trumpet. I am not familiar with the version you purchased.

This is the larger rebound buffer(front bump stop):

//www.minimania.com/part/2A4267C/Oversized-Upper-Arm-Rebound-Buffer---Mini--Mini-Cooper-S

 

Terry

You already have Hi Lo's front and rear so the new springs just relace the rubber donuts.

EDIT: If by donuts you mean the aluminium spacers they should rest against the Hi Lo's i believe.

So do the new donuts replace part of what I have? or does the donut go against the body/frame?

Trying to know before getting to the truck next week to install.

This is my rear setup now.

 

and I have these on the front

Richard just to clarify on 6464's post by bump stops he is referring to the small ones underneath the upper arm that are held in place with a phillips/pozidrive screw not the large ones bolted to the subframe.

Were there any markings on the springs? do the spun rings fit the respective springs? if your answers are no and yes, then the smaller springs with the screw cup are for the front , as noted they can be positioned with the threads if not using hilos. You'll have to look up into the tower  from the front of the mini to get it positioned evenly. I think you might want to source some hilos and the bigger bump stops. the bump stops prevent the spring and trumpet from coming loose when the suspension has drooped. If you are using hilos, you don't use the spun rings.

Bingo. Malsal got it right. Not only to compress them, but even if you have hi-lo's, it can be difficult to get them seated perfectly in the cups. The threads allow you to seat it perfectly and hold in place while you place the trumpets. I only learned that the third time I put them in. haha.

And trust me when I tell you it is extremely important to get it seated in the cup before you button everything up. You will find out quickly when it finds the cup while you're driving down the road and one side isn't sprung anymore.

Richard i am guessing the ones with the screw thread are the fronts so they can be compressed to fit if not using Hi Lo's.

Here is what came. The shorter ones have screw threads, the longer ones a big donut. It may become obvious when I pull things apart, but would like to not be guessing at that point.

Impressive service. I ordered Thursday, they shipped from the UK on Thursday, UPS sent it to Tennessee or somewhere, then Miami, then El Salvador, then received and cleared customs Monday morning, delivering to me in the afternoon.

let's see what you have.

My springs came. No instructions. Do the shorter ones go in front or in back?

I thank everyone for the discussion, opinions, conditions, etc. I hadn't considered age until this came up. A little more money in the car than budgeted, but a lot of valid reasons to do something. Based on my expected use, distance from suppliers, not wanting to replace ever again, etc. I ordered the progressive springs to replace my antique rubber cones. Once I add the $240 freight and then customs and VAT, I'll have a permanent solution. I won't be able to report how different they are, but my friend will certainly let me know how they work on his 59 Saloon and his Clubman Estate.

Hopefully they will get here in time for me to assemble the front while I have the engine and sub frame out in a couple of weeks to fix the transmission.

Update on the polly cones from Japan.  They are still going strong.

Something interesting that I jsut notice on my Road/Rally cones. They actually have a date etched into the metal base. Like a "born on" date whatever american beer company did:-)

What do you guys think the life span is for these cones in a north-east climate (New Jersey)? 7 years, 15,000 miles?

I just finished changing out 21 year old rubber cones to s racer blue springs and s racer hi los.  The conversion went well and easy. The ride is not a compliant as the mini delta LSS springs (which I love). But a night and day to the old cones ( which I hated). The ride is like driving on new cones, I've only had an hour worth of test driving.