My clutch is misbehaving - HELP!
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Nov 19, 2013 06:52PM | Spitz | |
Nov 19, 2013 05:51PM | Air2air | Edited: Nov 19, 2013 05:53PM |
Nov 19, 2013 04:34PM | Craig |
Found 23 Messages
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Last post: Jan 15, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2003
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When these wear out you'll have a similar problem.
I had limited clutch travel on one car. Everything ( almost ) had been replaced. I had even bent the arm to get a little more travel. I had it apart eventually and the plunger was badly worn...replacement fixed the problem
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Last post: Sep 26, 2016 Member since:Nov 24, 2012
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Craig I was looking forward to meeting you Sunday at the MOASF meeting. We are all dying to see your twin cam.
Jamal made these and they're quite helpful though you know all of this already:
Here is a followup. Notice he is using John Koo's adjustable pushrod. I love that thing. It is available here.
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Last post: Jan 10, 2024 Member since:Feb 25, 1999
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OK guys, I'm stumped. I've read the manuals (Haynes and factory) and through every thread I can find on Pre-Verto clutch adjustment and how to assemble it and I have the same problem with my clutch that I've always had with this car (11 years now!). 1/2 to 3/4 of the pedal movement is easy and the last bit the pedal force increases and the clutch disengages. I recently finished the twin cam conversion and replaced everything in the system except the pedal and pedal box. I have a lightened flywheel and pressure plate that were a matched set when I bought them new few years ago. The gap at the stop bolt is .020" and the big stop bolt has about 1/4 inch gap when the clutch is out.
I had my wife push the clutch pedal so I could watch the arm movement. It travels almost the full clutch cylinder movement; the first half or so is easy until the clutch starts to disengage and the pedal effort increases against the diaphragm spring force.
So, the clutch system is working as the slave cylinder is moving the clutch arm, but it doesn't start to release the clutch until it's almost completely to the floor. It seems as though after the throw out bearing contacts the diaphragm there is some gap or additional light spring movement that must be taken up before the clutch is actually released. I could adjust the stop bolt out to take up the first part of the pedal movement, but that would leave the bearing in contact with the diaphragm all the time; it wouldn't last very long like that I'm sure.
What could I have missed or am I stuck with a crappy clutch?
'72 Morris Mini - 1310cc, K1100 head conversion
Found 23 Messages