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 Posted: Nov 18, 2014 02:19PM
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I've run my S with no jam nut and adjuster for many years, these really only come into play when the clutch is depressed. So just use the clutch when shifting and keep it in neutral at stops and such and no probems. Mine tightened itself at an off ramp and I had traffic backed up until I was able to start it in 3rd gear and limp home about 2 miles. I removed them after that fiasco.

 Posted: Nov 18, 2014 09:33AM
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CA

Seven nailed it and when I "lost the clutch" in Iowa last July, I told my running mates "If I can't solve this in a few minutes, we have a serious problem."

Jam nut on the clutch throw out plunger had walked and the adjustment nut had moved inward.  Removed the stop nut, checked the clearance...and minutes later we were on our way.

I have several sets of stop & jam nuts zap strapped together in the garage. 

 Posted: Dec 8, 2013 10:35AM
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SE7EN is the winner!

SE7EN is the MAN!

SE7EN go my mini on the road again!

 

Stop adjustment (so obvious now) did the trick.

Thanks! - Ramsey - New Orleans

 Posted: Dec 7, 2013 06:43PM
 Edited:  Dec 7, 2013 07:00PM
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US
Has it been determined if this is a pre Verto clutch assembly? If it is, before tearing into the workings, why not reset the stop adjustment? The described action suggests that the throwout bearing may simply be too far off the pressure plate, leaving any observed arm action moving the plunger and throwout bearing thru air rather than against the pressure plate. Resetting the stop adjustment clearance to 0.020" will locate the throwout bearing just off the pressure plate so lever arm action translates to throwout pressure on the pressure plate virtually as soon as the arm starts to move. The procedure is in the manual.

SE7EN

 Posted: Dec 7, 2013 06:11PM
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Had a bit of time to today to investigate a bit. I removed the clutch arm. The ball is still intact on the end. Reassembled and bled.

Slave moves push rod. Push rod moved arm. Plunger moves in but no pressure id developed.

I will take clutch cover off next.

 

Ramsey-New Orleans

 Posted: Dec 6, 2013 04:08PM
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US

If bleeding doesn't solve your problem, you might have a collapsed clutch hose at the slave, not letting fluid return.

If it's not  leaking/losing fluid, and the clutch arm moves when your helper puts the clutch to the floor, I'd just go ahead and disassemble the clutch lever arm assembly. check out the condition of the ball on the end of the arm. Next you'd want to remove  the clutch cover.  When putting the cover back on, leave the 8 o'clock position bolt on your bench. Not necessary and will save you time from now on.


Once you have the cover off, I'd take the opportunity to renew the throw out bearing, and remove the plunger, and clean it up. Also the bearing surface inside the clutch cover. 400 g sandpaper or higher for the cover bearing. I like to buff the plunger with jewlers rouge and a flannel wheel for a nice polish. then put a thin  film of lithium grease on the bearing area and plunger. Don't over do it with the grease.

 

also on re assembly, grease up the pocket in the plunger and the ball on the throwout arm.

Inspect the clutch assembly for abnormal signs of wear, burning, or broken pieces.

 Posted: Dec 6, 2013 10:56AM
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CA
Is the plunger for the release bearing moving in conjunction with movement of the clutch arm ? Have somebody pump the pedal and watch the plunger for movement. The ball on the end of the clutch arm bends and sometimes snaps right of .So if the arm is moving but not the plunger in the Center of the clutch cover , the ball may have broken.

Mousy

 
 
 Posted: Dec 5, 2013 05:26PM
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I don't think I am locked in gear. I can take out of gear when engine is not running nad roll the car.

 

I need to measure amount of push rod travel and get back with you.

 Posted: Dec 5, 2013 03:27PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune


May be way off base but here goes. Check the 1/4 bolt that holds the slave mounting plate to hat. if it backs out the bracket will move with the push rod but not move the clutch. Steve (CTR)

Applicable to a verto set up Seve but as this is a "76 Mini" it may still be A series and not A+.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Dec 5, 2013 08:10AM
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US


May be way off base but here goes. Check the 1/4 bolt that holds the slave mounting plate to hat. if it backs out the bracket will move with the push rod but not move the clutch. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Dec 5, 2013 06:12AM
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US

Is it locked in gear?  Your problem might be with the linkage and not the clutch. Check the rear mount on the shift lever, and where it connects to the diff.

 Posted: Dec 4, 2013 09:19PM
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How far does the top of the clutch arm move when the pedal is fully depressed??

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Dec 4, 2013 08:59PM
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Thanks for insights thus far.

I am not losing fluid and pumping clutch pedal does not result in increased pressure / clutch disengagment.

I will likely try the bleed and the arm / shuttle diagnostic referenced earlier.

Ramsey-New Orleans

 

 

 Posted: Dec 4, 2013 07:22PM
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US

start with the simple stuff. Is it losing fluid?

Bleed it and see if you have a clutch. If so, mabye your losing fluid somewhere else.

Did you try pumping it to see if you get a pedal?

 

 Posted: Dec 4, 2013 05:44PM
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US
May have sprung a leak in the hydraulics and allowed some air into the system... "went soft" is typical of that... the arm will still move until it encounters higher resistance. Also check the tightness of the slave mounting to the housing, and the clevis at the pedal....

 Posted: Dec 4, 2013 01:55PM
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Yes, the little barrely thingy that the release bearing riides on...

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Dec 4, 2013 04:52AM
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US

by shuttle, you mean plunger?

 

 Posted: Dec 3, 2013 06:28PM
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Release bearing or diaphragm centre has collapsed???

Although... before getting too involved, pull the clutch lever (the bit between the slave rod and the release shuttle) and check the ball on the lower end. it may have started to separate from the lever... BTDT..

While the lever is off, try pushing the shuttle against the diaphragm and spinning it between your fingers - this will give some insight into the state of the bearing (might help to remove the overthrow nuts before pulling the clutch lever).

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Dec 3, 2013 06:02PM
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1975 Mini 1000

Please offer your thoughts on how to resolve.

I have a new clutch master cylinder and a new clutch slave. Both have been working fine.

I went to work this AM and pulled into garage and was shifting into 1st gear and the peddle went soft...clutch won't disengage. Slave is moving the swing arm but clutch won't disengage.

I tried putting in 4th gear and rocking a bit but had no success. 

Any thoughts in likely issue?

--------Ramsey in New Orleans.