Clutch suddenly will not disengage
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I've run my S with no jam nut and adjuster for many years, these really only come into play when the clutch is depressed. So just use the clutch when shifting and keep it in neutral at stops and such and no probems. Mine tightened itself at an off ramp and I had traffic backed up until I was able to start it in 3rd gear and limp home about 2 miles. I removed them after that fiasco.
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Seven nailed it and when I "lost the clutch" in Iowa last July, I told my running mates "If I can't solve this in a few minutes, we have a serious problem."
Jam nut on the clutch throw out plunger had walked and the adjustment nut had moved inward. Removed the stop nut, checked the clearance...and minutes later we were on our way.
I have several sets of stop & jam nuts zap strapped together in the garage.
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SE7EN is the winner!
SE7EN is the MAN!
SE7EN go my mini on the road again!
Stop adjustment (so obvious now) did the trick.
Thanks! - Ramsey - New Orleans
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SE7EN
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Had a bit of time to today to investigate a bit. I removed the clutch arm. The ball is still intact on the end. Reassembled and bled.
Slave moves push rod. Push rod moved arm. Plunger moves in but no pressure id developed.
I will take clutch cover off next.
Ramsey-New Orleans
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If bleeding doesn't solve your problem, you might have a collapsed clutch hose at the slave, not letting fluid return.
If it's not leaking/losing fluid, and the clutch arm moves when your helper puts the clutch to the floor, I'd just go ahead and disassemble the clutch lever arm assembly. check out the condition of the ball on the end of the arm. Next you'd want to remove the clutch cover. When putting the cover back on, leave the 8 o'clock position bolt on your bench. Not necessary and will save you time from now on.
Once you have the cover off, I'd take the opportunity to renew the throw out bearing, and remove the plunger, and clean it up. Also the bearing surface inside the clutch cover. 400 g sandpaper or higher for the cover bearing. I like to buff the plunger with jewlers rouge and a flannel wheel for a nice polish. then put a thin film of lithium grease on the bearing area and plunger. Don't over do it with the grease.
also on re assembly, grease up the pocket in the plunger and the ball on the throwout arm.
Inspect the clutch assembly for abnormal signs of wear, burning, or broken pieces.
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Mousy
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I don't think I am locked in gear. I can take out of gear when engine is not running nad roll the car.
I need to measure amount of push rod travel and get back with you.
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May be way off base but here goes. Check the 1/4 bolt that holds the slave mounting plate to hat. if it backs out the bracket will move with the push rod but not move the clutch. Steve (CTR)
Applicable to a verto set up Seve but as this is a "76 Mini" it may still be A series and not A+.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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May be way off base but here goes. Check the 1/4 bolt that holds the slave mounting plate to hat. if it backs out the bracket will move with the push rod but not move the clutch. Steve (CTR)
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Is it locked in gear? Your problem might be with the linkage and not the clutch. Check the rear mount on the shift lever, and where it connects to the diff.
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How far does the top of the clutch arm move when the pedal is fully depressed??
Cheers, Ian
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Thanks for insights thus far.
I am not losing fluid and pumping clutch pedal does not result in increased pressure / clutch disengagment.
I will likely try the bleed and the arm / shuttle diagnostic referenced earlier.
Ramsey-New Orleans
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start with the simple stuff. Is it losing fluid?
Bleed it and see if you have a clutch. If so, mabye your losing fluid somewhere else.
Did you try pumping it to see if you get a pedal?
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Yes, the little barrely thingy that the release bearing riides on...
Cheers, Ian
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by shuttle, you mean plunger?
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Release bearing or diaphragm centre has collapsed???
Although... before getting too involved, pull the clutch lever (the bit between the slave rod and the release shuttle) and check the ball on the lower end. it may have started to separate from the lever... BTDT..
While the lever is off, try pushing the shuttle against the diaphragm and spinning it between your fingers - this will give some insight into the state of the bearing (might help to remove the overthrow nuts before pulling the clutch lever).
Cheers, Ian
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1975 Mini 1000
Please offer your thoughts on how to resolve.
I have a new clutch master cylinder and a new clutch slave. Both have been working fine.
I went to work this AM and pulled into garage and was shifting into 1st gear and the peddle went soft...clutch won't disengage. Slave is moving the swing arm but clutch won't disengage.
I tried putting in 4th gear and rocking a bit but had no success.
Any thoughts in likely issue?
--------Ramsey in New Orleans.