cross member seat bolts/nuts
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I recieved the seat brackets 2 days ago. seem to be very well made. Let you kow how they work
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cant weld and no welder nor do people want to waste time with small job
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pull your carpet up,, weld in a bracket/tab, and slit the carpet to allow the tab to protrude. Unless it's a MK 1 cooper S, why not weld into the x member?
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I bolted a pair of Sparco R100 seats and Sparco seat-base frames directly to the floor behind the crossmember.
Perhaps your seats have an available base for direct floor mounting?
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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Move it too far over and you are in the way of the e-brake release mechanism.
Terry
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thanks bikwiz. order 2 sets of them brackets as they look like they solve a few problems I had In mind that may pop up and they are pretty cheap. I wasted alot of time trying to solve this problem .Now i just have to wait for package to arrive
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Question remains...why move the seat mounting point? This curiousd mind is interested to know - it may be a very good reason.
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I have seen multiple pulled out/ spin when trying to remove something, and that is what makes me cautious. They may not have been rivnut brand so that might be the differance. Sounds like the Rivnut if installed correctly may be the way to go.
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I would not 100% trust rivnets to hold my seat in, I would drill from the front& rear of the crossmember ,sleeve with a tube to reinforce, and use bolts to hold the origional brackets on.
Really?
//www.rivet-nut.com/Rivnut_Mechanical_Properties.pdf
If I read this correctly 1/4 x 20 rivnut pulls out at a minimum of 435ft/lbs each or 1740 ft/lbs for 4. Physics isn't my strong suit but does a human with a seat belt on held to the floor generate that much force on the seat bracket?
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I would not 100% trust rivnets to hold my seat in, I would drill from the front& rear of the crossmember ,sleeve with a tube to reinforce, and use bolts to hold the origional brackets on.
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I ned to move seat brackets in about 2-3 inches what can i do to secure the bracket to the crossmember. Cross member has carpet on it so welding is a no go.
Rivnuts through a nicely made hole in the carpet. These are JB Fab extended brackets that need 4 extra bolts at the back of the tunnel 4 rivnuts and Bob's your uncle.
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Curious...why move the seat brackets? Different seats? Mounting of frames?
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If you have the original brackets, you could make flat plates wide enough to go from the original mounting oles to where you want the brackets (or the new brackets) to be. Drill and tap the plates for the new bracket locations and use very short bolts that just equal the thickness of the brackets and the plates. That way you won't have to drill through the carpet, which is also a problem: drills get hot when drilling, and if you have synthetic carpet (nylon fibre etc.) it will melt, stick to the drill and pull the pile out, especially if it is a looped (not sheared) pile.
Or you could make one long plate spanning the old bracket positions and providing a base fort eh new positions.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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I ned to move seat brackets in about 2-3 inches what can i do to secure the bracket to the crossmember. Cross member has carpet on it so welding is a no go.