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 Posted: May 10, 2015 02:10AM
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Getting back to TMSmith's issue. Installed the T-connection yesterday, though had the same issue. By grinding down the corners of the hexagonal pessure switch, it was just to turn, just touching the vacuum housing. Even though the key would still have had enough grip, there was not need anymore. Fitted the pressure switch on the T-connection, prior to fitting it in the engine.

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 06:41PM
 Edited:  Apr 25, 2014 07:44AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmsmith

So another question is why is my distributor in the way and it could be simply the drive was not installed correctly.

Yes Terry. Looking at your the picture of your distributor it seems like it was installed one tooth off. Just follow nkerr's post on how to remedy the problem, make sure the bolt you use is engaged a few threads if it falls it may end up in the gearbox.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 04:33PM
jeg
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Good threads:

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/113110/1/1/dizzy_shaft_timing

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/111450/1/1/Do_I_have_this_right

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 03:47PM
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US

So another question is why is my distributor in the way and it could be simply the drive was not installed correctly.

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 03:39PM
jeg
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Yet another with braided hose, t-connection and electrical switch.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 03:03PM
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US

That's a good point. I have extra line behind the dash. I have 3 ≈3" perfectly circular loops behind the dash. This is nice for strain relief, removing the gauge and not having issues with pulling it, and keeps everything in the engine bay nice and tight.

 

All of this was in my car and worked very well for 5 years. I have since moved to an electronic gauge. I actually have my TIM 52mm Oil Pressure gauge for sale still.

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 02:32PM
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US

So it sounds like some of you are using a solid copper line all the way to the gauge?

I worry enough about the mechanical temp gauge line having adequate service loops to provide strain relief.

I will stick with the braided line.

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 10:32AM
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US

Terry,

Clocking the distributo ris easy enough, but is more of a bandaid in this situation than it appears. Get  the elbow (90° fitting and a copper line kit. It's cheap, easy to install, and adds reliability to the system. The copper line is far more versatile, and you can bent it where you want it to go... and it stays put. The nylon hose is springy and will flop around. Only way to keep it in place is to zip tie it to something else or wedge it somewhere. The copper can be neatly bent wherever you want it to go. 

The other thing is that the nylon will fail eventually. Whether it's catastrophic failure or not is another thing. A small fissure can lead to inaccurate pressure readings. Or it could fail right at the firewall behind the dash like it did on my brother's Fird Bronco and spew oil behind the dash for 5 minutes until you realise it. 

Ultimately it's your decision. Personally I'd go with reliability, neatness, and not having to re-do my timing all over again...

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 09:00AM
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US

The plastic version (actually probably nylon) is one that I had on hand probably from a gauge that I bought to use with an engine stand. It is not something I will use on the car, although the one on my son's 67 El Camino looks to have weathered 30-40 years without issue. I too have had a line hit the manifold in the past, but that was due to my carelessness, but also why I use the braided versions.

Clocking the distributor seems to be easy enough.

Terry

 Posted: Apr 24, 2014 05:47AM
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US

+1 for the Sunpro kit.  After having a plastic one partially melt, spewing oil on the exhaust manifold, Copper was the direction I took.  I never saw a braided option, and that would be nice too.

The copper is very conformable, taking 1/4" radius turns easily, which would allow it to bend before reaching that vacuum advance diaphragm.

 

"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"

 

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 06:02PM
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US

Advance Auto - Gauges and acessories

 

Sunpro sells a great kit - with copper and fittings - you can bend a copper line with a nice tight radi away from distrubutor.

Or clock the distrubutor drive like said. My cars all use the combo fitting- oil light plus fitting for the gauge take off.

//shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sunpro-copper-tubing-installation-kit-for-pressure-gauges-cp7584/9030174-P?searchTerm=sunpro+copper

 

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 05:25PM
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US

+1 on Norm's advice... and the recommendations above for a different oil line kit.  After the first time you break a nylon tube you are unlikely to want to use them again.  

Copper is better, the braid covered lines are best.  I'm sure our host proably sells oil line kits.  You can also get them from Summit Racing.  On their web site, enter "longacre gauge line kit" in the search field and choose the length you want.

Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 04:27PM
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you can also remove the distributor, thread a 5/16" fine thread bolt into the drive and remove it and replace it one tooth forward

Then the distributor will be "clocked" forward by one tooth, enough to clear your oil gauge fitting.

Norm

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 03:38PM
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US

I actually have the braided stainless version on my other cars and I have one for this car as well. But its end is even bigger. The original is on there now as I tried both the stainless and then the plastic version.

I will look for an elbow, but the fewer conecctions the better from my point of view.

Terry

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 03:36PM
 Edited:  Apr 23, 2014 03:39PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA2SBL1275

Terry:

That plastic oil pressure line looks pretty and that is what it is for, but heat makes the plastic brittle and easy to break. Engine vibration will break it when it drys out.  Then you have an oil leak.

A good auto parts store such as NAPA should stock metal tube for that.

You can also get a brass elbow.

I did not check MM but our host should stock the original pipe and hose.

You may want to check your plastic tube often if you drive the car much.  It could break anywhere between the engine and the gauge.

Russ

 

 

 

 

 

I picked up a stainless braided hose for my oil pressure line. I have the adapter that bikewiz posted the good thing being you can use the oil light switch in conjunction with it.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 03:28PM
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Terry:

That plastic oil pressure line looks pretty and that is what it is for, but heat makes the plastic brittle and easy to break. Engine vibration will break it when it drys out.  Then you have an oil leak.

A good auto parts store such as NAPA should stock metal tube for that.

You can also get a brass elbow.

I did not check MM but our host should stock the original pipe and hose.

You may want to check your plastic tube often if you drive the car much.  It could break anywhere between the engine and the gauge.

Russ

 

 

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 12:17PM
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Forgot the direction of rotation of the distributer but just move the wires on the cap one to the left or right, that is why you need to know the direction of rotation, twist the distributer so the oil line will not hit, and set the timing.

'67 Mini Cooper van conversion. 

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 12:06PM
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US

My car uses one of these with the pressure switch in the end. You could use this with the end blanked off then it would turn it 90 degrees. 

//www.minimania.com/part/TP/Gt-Piece-For-Oil-Pressure-Line-For-Switch-And-Gauge

 

 

 Posted: Apr 23, 2014 11:50AM
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US

I bought a replacement line for the oil pressure, but there is interference with the vacuum housing on the distributor.

On an older thread someone mentioned just moving the distributor a tooth or two...for a similar problem.

Terry