Thanks guys for all the very helpful tips, I'll report back.

But another issue came up.  With my entire family of four on the car, as luck would have it.  Northern California drivers; really a prize bunch.  We were stopped at the red light, so it's a little tough to come up with an excuse.  Necks are sore but nothing worse.

Fortunately Nick Upton has already ordered the parts and been ready to go.  Called me on Sunday in fact.  Geico, on the other hand, has not.

Heck, I'll make a separate thread for this!

 

I now run a Toyota style aftermarket PCV valve into the manifold with my Dellorto 45 carb, it works fine.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/31275265@N05/13340305554/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/31275265@N05/9266580564/

Note I have not used the flywheel housing breather, the drop gears toss oil up it on long LH bends. So I'm using the rocker cover instead. (I have no timing cover breather, it's an A series motor).

I have added a nylon hose and airline QC fittings from the rocker cover to the flywheel housing breather, to equalise crankcase pressure between the rockers and the sump. Objective- avoid any potential oil drainback problems with my breather arrangement.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/31275265@N05/11512060305/

 

Air2air:

You should replace the Toyota oil filler cap with a BMC/Leyland/Rover OEM cap.

The original cap has a built in vent to let outside air into the valve cover so the PCV has air to suck with the fumes.

Without it, you will suck oil because you will be making a vacuum.

Russ

 

 

 

Todd here is a picture of my upper motor mount set-up.

I had the breathers connected to the HIF44 port until a Mini mechanic (a very good one) disconnected it and rubber-capped the port. My plastic Y-pipe broke, so I made  Y out of 3/8" chrome copper tubing (look under your bathroom sink!), some solder and other bits. The end of my Y points toward the backplate of the cone-type air filter. I drilled the backplate and put in a hreaded nipple and connected the hose to it. Now any crankcase vapours are led into the airstream before the carb, not affecting its tune. ou can see it in the photo just above the oil filler cap.

I like how your oil filler cap says, "Toyota" on it!

That's an eagle-eyed spot !

I'm rather surprised it hasn't damaged anything that way round.

Air to Air ,Just a quick FYI, if thats your car in the first picture , your upper eng steady bracket (eng side ) is on back to front .... Mousy

It's worse than running with the vacuum port open to air, as you have the potential to be  sucking wet oil into the engine - as shown in your inlet manifold.

Couple all three breathers together (you do have another on the timing cover, don't you?) and plumb into the carb - no need for mucking about with valves then.

You may need to visit the rolling road again to make sure the mixture is still right.

Yeah that makes sense, it sounds just like running with the vacuum port open.

Barri, thank you for that helpful tip.  Yeah other I guys I talk to say PCV valves have all kinds of different rates, so it takes some looking into.

 

DISCONNECT THE  BREATHER FROM THE CARB BEFORE YOU DRIVE THE CAR AGAIN !!

All of the breathers should be connected or none at all.
With one connected and the others open to air, all you are doing is sucking a large amount of air through the engine and straight into the inlet manifold downstream of the needle.

Your mixture will be rather lean - possibly damagingly lean if you haven't had to richen it up to make it run right...

 

If its of any help I did this to my MG1100 engine - had the same problems with sucking up oil at inopertune times. My 65 had a gulp valve that was non repairable (no cruciform guide) so I used the PCV valve out of a 1l geo metro. Seems to work perfectly

here is the link to the MG1100 forum on the MG experience where I explain - hope its some help.

//www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?56,2637547

I have been playing more with my plating kit and have become a lot more proficient now

cheers

Barri

 

Lance he's gonna kick your butt 

Jet motors probably just wanted to sell you something

Pre June 64 vents were all open, no pcv valve

Jeremy at Jet noticed I was still running with the HI44 vacuum port capped and my oil breathers open to the world. So I did a Mickey-Mouse PCV version a couple weeks ago, just running the valve cover breather into the carb vacuum port.  Didn't hook up the crankcase breather yet.

So when I took off the head to decarbonize and lap valves there was a bunch of oil in the intake manifold.  Talked to an MGA guy who said it's because I don't have a check valve and was vacuuming up oil in deceleration.  

OK, so much for the British forums, where some alleged gurus are telling people (like me) there's no need for check valves.  

Ran into the MGA guy again today and he knew somebody that claimed to have blown gaskets and seals because of a wrong check valve.  Great - so now this is an official project where I can go and screw stuff up seriously.  Time to post up here.

Attached is a Smog Valve Gulp Pcv - 1098 & 1275 A Series Motors which I am unfamiliar with.  

Question for the gurus is would you do another off the shelf PCV, and if so which one?  I'm all ready to plumb this sucker up.  I was going to do a tee close to the carb (the one blue circle), and then tuck the valve cover breather hose (other blue circle) loosely under the carb - behind the heat shield - to meet up with the tee.