Prep For Paint
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Last post: Mar 25, 2022 Member since:Sep 4, 2000
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If you are using a single stage paint I don't think you should use clear coat over it.
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Last post: Apr 21, 2018 Member since:Nov 7, 2012
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Thanks for the info guys, im pretty much done with the prep, ive taped off everything that needs to be taped. and if you were wondering what type of paint I am using, I am using a single stage.
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Evan, once you have primed the car you probably should plan on allowing a half day for it to dry and then apply a contrasting color of primer in a fog as a guide coat that you wet sand down/off using sanding pads (not your hand) to reveal high and low spots such as JCHealey suggested. The need for additional body work is often revealed using this technique.
I agree with KD about removing everything you can as masking often disappoints.  ost the rest of your plan so 94Touring can comment. He does a lot of restoration and painting work.
The Tremclad (Rustoleum) paint jobs mentioned by Minerva are not uncommon. There are several web pages that describe the process in its entirety. While I would not do it, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with it, particularly where resources are limited. However, I suspect you (Evan) already have your materials. Which begs the question... what are you planning on? Lacquer, enamel, urethane, single-stage, base/clear???
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My neighbour painted his 1959 MGA coupe with...........wait for it............Tremclad. He has spent 3 years doing a 100% all-apart-all back together restoration. He painted the inside and outside with Tremclad BRG. Used rattle cans on the very hard to reach inside lips and a roller to do the outside. Then he spent about 2 days using a buffer & 3 stage Norton compound. The resulting job looks just like an original paint job would have been in 1959...and has the added advantage of being 100% rustproofed inside and outside. Total cost about $75.
If it's not Scottish....it's crap! (Cry of the Mini Tartan Owners' Clan)
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The one thing that I didn't notice listed in the prep, was to use a wax stripper/cleaner over the entire Mini before priming or painting. If you've used any silicone such as 'Armour All' at any time on your tires etc., the entire car could be contaminated with overspray. You can't see it, and wet sanding does NOT remove it. The silicone penetrates the paint and primer right down to the metal. If you don't remove the contaminates, your paint will fish eye. I'm surprised no one else mentioned it. Hope this helps. Mini Estate
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Check out //www.restorationmini.com/. It's a pretty straight forward guide on how to prep and ready. It doesn't have anything on how to prep a paint booth, but great tips on the car, paint, guns, what to sand with, etc. Many of the guys here are frequent visitors.
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Ive already hung plastic in my garage, sprayed the floor with the hose to flush out any dust, and im going to put filters in so only clean air is coming through. Ive wetsanded and washed the entire car, and im going to get some tac cloth to wipe off any remaining dust. then when its time to paint, there will be primer sealer sprayed, then paint. Thats all i can really think of off the top of my head.
There was a MGB that showed up at some British Car Days a few years ago. It had an outstanding paint job except for a splotchy area on the bonnet.
Turned out that they were spraying the car a few days before the event and some squirrel passed out in the rafters falling down on their fresh paint.
Eventually, they re-sprayed the area and it looked nice. (for a MGB)
Me? I would've clear coated over the squirrel skid marks and have a story to tell every time the car went out....
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Step 1) Load it on a trailer
Step 2) Take it to Tulsa and let Dan do a professional paint job
Step 3) Enjoy.
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Ive already hung plastic in my garage, sprayed the floor with the hose to flush out any dust, and im going to put filters in so only clean air is coming through. Ive wetsanded and washed the entire car, and im going to get some tac cloth to wipe off any remaining dust. then when its time to paint, there will be primer sealer sprayed, then paint. Thats all i can really think of off the top of my head.
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Remove all glass, rubber seals, tail lamps, wheel box rubbers,etc.
Taping is not the solution as the rubbers shrink the paint line will show.
Use a clear coat over the base coat as the paint will last a lot longer...
Deb
Keith & Deb
Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen
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I am going to paint my 73 Mini in the next couple of days, is there anything I should look out for, or anything special I should do to prep the Mini, other than the obvious?