As inspector Cluseau would say, " the Case is Solv-ed"   Went through all those procedures, by the info on another site, so, bled the system, still no clutch, then was suspecting the hose, but was still getting movement, so My Dad had a

NOS Clutch lever and we decided to take out the one the was new about 8-9 years ago, a heavy duty one, and looked it over. At first I didnt see any wear, but after further inspection I saw this: I replaced that, and done deal. I am going to go over the rest of things, clevis pins etc. just to make sure. Thanks to the guys who I talked to on the phone, and on here and FB. It's amazing how such a small amount of wear can make such a Big problem!

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It's my experience you don't need to touch those outer two big nuts when adjusting the clutch once the top hat is first installed and given it's initial adjustment. You can actually take those nuts completely off. All they do (when properly adjusted) is protect you from over-pushing your clutch (if that makes any sense). Racers will sometimes cut off that threaded stub and remove the nuts because under vibration if those nuts thread inwards they will prevent you from disengaging your clutch at all (which is the "make it worse" scenario you touched on).

Back those nuts out quite a ways so they aren't a factor in the real adjustment steps to come.

To adjust the throw, pull the clutch arm outwards (taking off the return spring helps with this). Holding that arm outward, take a 7/16" wrench and back out the 1/4" bolt that acts as the return stop until it just brushes agains the arm. then turn it in a few flats until there's just a smidge of a gap between the bolt and the arm when you have outward hand pressure against the arm. That is your free play and once your return-assist spring is hooked back up, that gap is never visible. That gap is what allows your throwout bearing to retrack enough so that it is not constantly spinning against the clutch spring. 

Next, bleed your clutch setup. 

That should be all you need to do to adjust your clutch throw and restore it to a smooth 1st and reverse engagement.

Now, those 2 nuts down there? They're still bothering you, eh? Go have an assistant stand on your clutch pedal fully to the floor. Take those nuts and thread them down until the inward one just touches the alumimum housing. Have your assistant take foot OFF clutch pedal. Turn that nut 2 more flats in. Now jam the outer nut against the inner nut and lock them together. Done.

If you still engagement issues and you are confident your slave cylinder is not leaking (peel bak the dust cover and see if it's moist), then your clevis pin at the pedal and master cylinder may look a lot like the one I've put up here, or one of the other wear points is ... uh... worn xcessively.

Describe your stop nut adjustment procedure, Ron. If you've done that correctly and nothing works, then the lack of disengagement may be hydraulic, mechanical or a combination of both. Bleeding is a good next step. Then look at the plunger movement to see what amount of travel occurs when you depress the pedal.

Additionally, make sure that the plunger moves freely in the cover before going too far looking at the rest of the system. Even in good nick, the system can't move a balky plunger. That said, if first and reverse were the only selection issues, it may be a wear issue in the clevis pins or the lever ball. Look at all of the pivot/contact points for wear. A little wear can equal enough loss of travel to create the issue you're experiencing.

Figured I would try to adjust my clutch today, and I have seem to have gone the opposite way! I have been having some problems with getting the car in first and reverse lately, not errible, just not as

smooth as I would like. It is a Pre-Verto Car, S box no synch in first, remote shift. I followed the Haynes book instructions, backing off the large nuts on the plunger, then tried to adjust the stop bolt. I can't get it into gear at all now.

Talked to some others about ideas, could be a worn out hose??  I have had it on the road since '09, but I dont drive it everyday.  I'm going to bleed it tomorrow, then re-adjust per another article I found

on-line and see whart happens. Then, if that doesnt work go for a new braided hose. Just figured I'd check with you guys on any ideas, tips and or tricks you have. Thanks, Ron J.