Yeah I was going to do the Sracer ones and have read that elsewhere - pretty unbelievable to mount them on the sheet metal like that.  I still need rears and have been looking at cutting down some hydrolastic bumps and drilling/taping the arm.

But then you read stuff like this from TMF:

 

"... you need to be careful about installing any kind of bumpstops on the rear suspension. They can be used to good effect if "engineered" properly, but if done incorrectly, they can cause serious upsetting of the car's handling whilst cornering, especially if a bump is encountered by the loaded(outside) wheel while that wheel is under heavy load due to cornering forces.

A friend of mine who raced Mini 7, winning that championship twice, and Miglia(competitively and leading a race or two), installed and really liked rear bumpstops because, after some experimentation with placement, he found that they enabled him to kick the rear of the car out during corner entry in order to achieve more neutral cornering. 

I hesitate to mention this because, while he was well-experienced and quite a good driver, the average road runner is likely neither. He also had to do a fair bit of testing to get the effect just right to his liking.

I race and I would not have rear bumpstops in any size or location. I feel that they are unneeded on my car with me driving it. I did cut the front bumpstops down to only about 1/4 inch to make sure that they only come into play during the most dire of suspension bump travel(during crisis, most likely).

Used wisely by those who are knowledgeable, bumpstops can be a useful tuning aid. Bumpstops installed on a car simply for suspension travel limitation purposes need to be used very carefully or the driver can be caught out at a most inconvenient moment and cause high drama.

In my first race, I found that my rear tire was rubbing on my rear fender flare while cornering aggressively. Rather than install a rear bumpstop, I chose to raise the ride height slightly just enough to prevent the tire rubbing the flare. Done. With no negative effect on handling." 

Thanks for the input, Air. I appreciate it. Glad to know that it's not rubbing in the front. That was the biggest question I had. I was also tackling rub demons in the rear when I had 13's so I have had to play around quite a bit with that already. I'm running red coils and GAZ short body dampers so I feel that helped quite a bit with the intense short duration bumps. What bumpstops are you using in the rear? I removed the SRacer bump stops that were on my car because they were mangling the inner fender. 

Hi MtyMous - saw your question on TMF too.  I do have rubbing issues, and a lot of guys here would waggle their fingers at how low it is.  However it is rubbing because I haven't attacked rear bump stops yet.

I am 1/2" from the bump stops in front and it does not rub there.  It is rubbing in back because I need to do some bump stop experimentation in back.  The gurus here will say this is the wrong thing to do - you should be cranking it up instead.  I agree, but it also looks like a little old lady car.

I've heard success stories running lowered cars by starting with the bump stop, not the Hi/Lo.  First by shimming/positioning the bump stop to absolutely ensure you will not rub even on a really bad hit, and then grinding it down so that you've got some distance for the cones to be able to do their bit.  The idea being that a shortened bump stop will only be needed at the very end of upper travel, instead of interfering with the cone doing its job.

As one who cranks his car up and down all day, what works best is to crank it down until you start rubbing at your favorite nasty bump down the street.  Measuring helps only for keeping right and left equal, unless you can use corner weighting scales.

For the wheel offset you're better off looking it up instead of trusting my measuring abilities. I decided on this combo by going through the TMF 10" wheels thread where hundreds of guys are posting pics and describing their setups. I'm not so practiced in measuring what would look good.

Thank You

MtyMous-

The car hasn't been lowered yet, but as far as rubbing, no issues there. No body mods, brakes are minisport 4 pots in the front and spacered rear drums. I plan on bringing the car down a inch or two all around. Suspension is coil springs and all the other adjustable bits, so I imagine even after lowering, the tires still won't rub.

 

Same question. It looks like your car is slightly lowered. Do you have any rubbing issues? Did you have to do any body modifications? What is the offset on this wheel? How wide is the outer part of the wheel? i.e. can you measure from the flange surface to the outer part of the lip and let me know what that distance is?

Did you have to cut the fender to make these fit? Are you lowered at all?

Hey BigBurly, that is one beautiful car! I'm not usually a fan of flares or skirts but your car looks GREAT! Well done.

Not revolutions obviously but 10x6 Ultralites.  Love 'em.

Just like Spitz, superfins on the back and S discs in front.  To me the Ultralite offsets work perfectly.  There is a tad more bump steer but barely.  I think Revolutions are about the same price.

Also I had been running 008s for years and avoided 032s because of the wear issues.  Well, the 032's are SO much more comfortable and better holding I'll never go back to 008s.

Here's Mine,

 

Here's mine. 10x6.5 SSR Mk2 with I think Grp2 arches. The tires sit flush with the arches.

6" Mercury wheels with 032.
Discs front Superfin rear

[URL=//s5.photobucket.com/user/Mayjer/media/mercury2.jpg.html][/URL]

 

Some pics of Minilite, SSR, deep dish 10's in this thread:

 

Here are my Mambas (genuine). They are 6x10 but fit nicely under the car. I should have small flares but like the chrome too much. I have Cooper S brakes.

Besides Disks + drums = you have disks- the size of the front disk brakes you have will also dictate if you can bolt on 10 x 6 WHeels

Many times 8.5 (later) front brake rotors with calipers will not fit under 10" wheels (unless they have a WILD offset outward)

Research / test fitting will help decide if 10's on your current brake setup will allow you to run them without major brake replacement for the small rotors.

I have disc brakes in the drums in the rear. I have yet to check if I have spacers. My mini is running a set of minilites 12x5 with a small offset and I believe it has Sport Pack fender flares.

Do you have disc brakes and spacered rears.....or drums all around?

Hello,

I've been trying to decide what route to go as far as wheel/flare combo. I really like the 10x6 Revolutions Wheels. I was hoping you guys could help me out by posting pictures of your classic minis with 10x6's.

 

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Rene