Floor pan hole Rod change
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jul 30, 2014 09:56AM | wilhite | |
Jul 29, 2014 09:36PM | Sanford | |
Jul 29, 2014 04:10PM | Jemal | |
Jul 29, 2014 04:03PM | jeg | |
Jul 29, 2014 03:56PM | Sanford | |
Jul 29, 2014 03:50PM | jeg | Edited: Jul 29, 2014 03:51PM |
Jul 29, 2014 03:22PM | Sanford |
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You can indeed "work from below"! The hole needed for the rod-change shifter is quite a bit smaller than the 'actual' hole in the floor for those models. You really only need about a 2" hole for the portion of the shifter housing that would otherwise hit the floor! Get your engine unit all mounted up in it's proper position and position the shift-rods and shifter unit from below. Cut a nice clean 2' hole for the 'post' that holds the shifter, and use the bracket in the kit to mount the shift housing from below.
You can always make the hole bigger later for the boot and retainer.
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Of course, you could still probably procede, mount the selector unit to the floor without the shift lever, drilling a hole 'only-just' big enough for the shift lever ball assembly to pop through the floor (probably 2" diameter) and finish the job once you get the gaitor and retaining plate.
If it were mine, I'd do it only after I had all the bits.
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I finally changed the retaining plate and rubber gaitor on mine today; it was leaking rainwater, so I could offer this as advice.
Assuming that you've got the retaining plate (p/n FJN10003) for the gear lever gaitor, use this as a template for the 4 screws which fasten the retaining plate and gaitor to the floor. As you suggest, I'd mark a spot on the underside where the gearlever protrudes through the floor and drill a 1-inch hole. Place the retaining plate over this hole and center left to right, and though it's tempting to center latitudinally also, you'll probably end up positioning the retaining plate with 1/3rd rearwards and 2/3rds forward of the hole you drilled. If you've got the rubber gaitor (p/n CZH4278), you'll notice that the gearshift doesn't come up through the exact center of the gaitor, but rather is somewhat rearmost oriented.
Once satisfied, drill your 4 small holes for ordinary sheet metal screws. Then, I'd fasten the retaining plate and trace the interior orifice, ensuring approximately ½ inch or so 'margin' from the 4 sheet metal screw holes. Only now would I begin cutting out the 'big' hole'.
On mine, the 'big hole' has a raised lip which fits inside the gaitor/retaining plate and assists in sealing from the elements. Of course, being precision engineered, the retaining plate sat atop the rear edge instead of 'nesting' over it. 35 years it was like this, and I found course in reforming the lip and ensuring that my new retaining plate and gaitor sit flat against the floor-hump.
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