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 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 08:47PM
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US

Sorry I meant the upper arms. I was visualizing the bottom of the shock and thought lower arm.

And Dave you got to leave with a brand new set of 032s as  the autocross winner too.

 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 03:10PM
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I did all that to my hydro car and it was extremely quick. Don't forget the adjustable camber brackets for the rear and some 032r tires and you too can smoke the competion by 4 tenths at the autocross at minimeet west.

dr dave

This just in......Red Stripe Beer makes you Stupic.
 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 12:34PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jemal

That's exactly what Ed had to do... well, I'm sure you meant the upper arm!  When I converted my 66 S, I got some new NOS dry upper arms, so did not have to enlarge the holes for the shock pins....

So now, I'm curious about adding shocks to the rear.... it's obviously more involved with having to drill or replace the stub-axles, but is there any benefit to be gained?

And, no Todd,  in no way was I trying to draw attention to your condition(s)!

I will update you at once when our condition changes!    Wink

Although probably not the same outcome it seems like it would be easier to just add the sway bar and competition bump stops the way Ed is doing it unless it adversely affects the handling of course.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 10:59AM
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US

Yes, drilling the upper arm for the lower shock mount was a part of it. If you changed to dry arms you also changed the spring rate as hydro and dry arms have a different knuckle location. I'm not sure anything would be gained by adding rear shocks. In the early 70s my stock 67 Cooper S with 1.5 lower front arms ST shock kit and ST rear sway bar was top 5 at autocrosses with 70 plus car fields. Two S 's and two Super Sevens all on slicks finished ahead of me. I could cover everything else from the saftey of C stock. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 10:41AM
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US

That's exactly what Ed had to do... well, I'm sure you meant the upper arm!  When I converted my 66 S, I got some new NOS dry upper arms, so did not have to enlarge the holes for the shock pins....

So now, I'm curious about adding shocks to the rear.... it's obviously more involved with having to drill or replace the stub-axles, but is there any benefit to be gained?

And, no Todd,  in no way was I trying to draw attention to your condition(s)!

I will update you at once when our condition changes!    Wink

 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 09:26AM
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US

I added the shocks to my hydro set up years ago. Bolts right up with the exception of the lower arm needing to be drilled out to accept the bolt that holds the shock. Made a great improvement. 

 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 08:45AM
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US

I thought this was pretty common in the late 60s and early 70s and I was pretty sure it was on the ST list that you could order through BMC dealers. It was the kind of thing young hydro Mini drivers had on their wishlists.

Terry

 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 04:54AM
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This was the normal approach for a young auto crosser in the early 70s. ST offered the kit with a special Koni shock. I picked up my kit and ST hydro rear sway bar kit from Ed Spreen at the family dealership in NJ. After getting the kit installed and dialing the suspension in I was SEVSCO C stock champ three years in a row. I was runing 6x10 wheels with 165 Goodyear raidials. When I went to Goodyear gum ball slicks I had to change to dry suspension. The side grip was so great the car kept going onto two wheels with slicks and hydro. The rear bar was very light 1/2" maybe 5/8" no more. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jul 31, 2014 02:49AM
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  You folks were wonderful "navigators". Loray did not make a sound when we jumped over that hill and came down, bending the exhaust to a shower of sparks. You folks can ride with me any time you are in the States.

 Posted: Jul 30, 2014 10:00PM
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Hi Ed , you didn't call us to come and passenger for you Loray is very upset but hope you had a great time!!! Grant.

 Posted: Jul 30, 2014 07:56PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jemal

This is a very interesting modification, and seems to be win-win!  I wonder why we don't see more of this sort of hybrid, keeping the hydro system, but adding shocks to arrest the wallowing and pogo effect caused by the common fluid front to rear.

Can anyone think of a downside to what Mr. Smith is doing?

Its been a pretty common mod in Oz to hydro Minis for many years. ... along with the "Scandinavian" bump stops. 

The trick is to use the softest standard shocks you can find.  Don't forget that they're only "assisting" the existing hydro valving...

It will be intersting to hear how the rear bar works out.

Cheers, Ian

 

 Posted: Jul 30, 2014 07:43PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jemal

...to arrest the wallowing and pogo effect caused by the common fluid front to rear.

I take offense at this obvious jab at those of us who are both overweight and incontinent

 Posted: Jul 30, 2014 03:39PM
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US

This is a very interesting modification, and seems to be win-win!  I wonder why we don't see more of this sort of hybrid, keeping the hydro system, but adding shocks to arrest the wallowing and pogo effect caused by the common fluid front to rear.

Can anyone think of a downside to what Mr. Smith is doing?

 Posted: Jul 30, 2014 02:18PM
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  Last Friday I installed A front shock kit on my 67s supplied by our site host. The hydro suspension makes a good ride but the handeling is soso. Shocks make a very worthwhile up grade.On Sat my mini buddy's and I took a trip across the Smokey Mts. from Knoxville TN to Cherokee NC and back, about 150mi round trip This drive showed the benefits of the shock addition. I have ordered front progessive bumpstops, a rear progessive bumpstop kit and a rear swaybar to finish the handeling set up. I think this will be a real improvement to the cars handeling.Smile