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 Posted: Aug 3, 2014 08:25PM
mur
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That gearbox price is good.  Very good.

If they will also sell and ship a transfer gear housing with idler gear and new bearings set up for that gearbox, then your local garage has a straightforward day of work to pull the drivetrain and swap the engine over.  No drama, no worries about parts incompatibility or parts shipped incorrectly.  

This would minimize all costs:  arts, shipping, labour as each is reduced to a minimum and liabilities are removed from the equation.  

 Posted: Aug 3, 2014 07:53PM
 Edited:  Aug 3, 2014 07:58PM
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If the (2K) price includes removal and re-installation in the car as well as the gearbox overhaul then I'd agree its not a bad price.   

However, if you have the time and space (and the least bit of mechanical knowledge) the dissassemble/reassemble is a pretty basic process..  

Before you go down the overhaul path I would ask lots of questions.  When I asked about a rebuild of my 333 I was led to believe that parts are both expensive and not easy to get hold of.  Despite appearances, your 3 synchro box and the 4 synchro versions advertised by MM are two very different (albeit interchangeable) items...

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Aug 3, 2014 07:10PM
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The cost is in pulling the unit and taking it apart....if i understood it Jemals first idea is for me to send him the offending trans so he can fix it....i live in Minneapolis...there are competent mechanics here... it would still have to be removed ...shipped to Cal...then shipped back here and reinstalled....more cost and time in the long run .

Thanks

Pat

 Posted: Aug 3, 2014 05:14PM
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I would be looking seriously at Jemal's offer....  I didn't read the fine print but 1K+ for a 4 synchro box is seriously better than a repair guestimated at double that...

Unless you're an originality junkie teh old 333 doesn't have much to recommetnd it.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Aug 3, 2014 01:43PM
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Cup Cake

GOOD to know...i will give him the info ...

Thanks

 Posted: Aug 3, 2014 08:38AM
 Edited:  Aug 3, 2014 10:00AM
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Most of the cost is in labor. To give you an idea whether the job is priced properly, the factory schedule of repair times shows the job (operation E12) takes 18 hr. 30 min., so at $2000 you are paying approx. $100/hr. Obviously there will be some cost for parts, like gears, gaskets, etc. A competant mechanic should be able to to the job in less time.   

There is a crucial adjustment you'll want to make sure your mechanic gets right. It is the end-float of the idler gear. It is governed by the tickness of the end cover gasket and the thrust washers. The spec is 0.003 - 0.007 but you want it at the low side of the range.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Aug 3, 2014 06:58AM
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Thanks guys....looks like its gonna be around 2000 to fix....of course ,when its out and apart the tale will be told.....

my wrenching qualifications only extend to adjusting steering clutches on Cat D-8s while in the US Army in the 60s...not exactly a detailed A series trans job ....

i leave it to the xperts...thus the hi cost !

Pat

 Posted: Aug 2, 2014 07:51PM
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Aces:

Before you stopped driving your car, did you try to back up?

Putting the trans in reverse on the three-synchro box puts another gear between first gear and the lay gear.

If reverse still works normally, first gear and the lay gear are ok and it would be shift fork related.

If you drain the oil and have it analyzed, it should show a lot of bronze from the shift fork.

If your gears are destroyed, there would be chunks of the gears in the oil you can see.

Have fun

Russ

 Posted: Aug 2, 2014 03:17PM
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OK, as I suspected, not completely pooched. I'm thinking the 1st/2nd shift fork is worn out on one side to the point of not engaging first gear properly, i.e., not sliding the synchro hud far enough. Regardless, as you already know, it'll need fixing.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Aug 1, 2014 03:04PM
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Cup Cake,

Not any real forewarning....went on the hiway @ 60mph for several miles and exited...  i stopped at a sign and when starting off it made a loud intermitent clunking sound... which increases with acceleration ...once in second no problem....have been told i could drive it as is and no further damage will occur ...this seems a bit optimistic to me....there has to be the metal in the oil consideration...i have parked it until it is repaired.

Pat

 Posted: Aug 1, 2014 02:52PM
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First not working at all seems quite unusual. I'd be interested in hearing what the symptoms were leading up to it failing. For example, did it happen suddenly with lots of grinding. Shifting into first while moving is usually accompanied by grinding which will eventually wear down the synchro teeth. 

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Aug 1, 2014 01:05PM
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US

Yes, you'll have the 22g333 3-synchro gearbox. It will require a complete disassembly from the engine, and of the gearbox.  Don't just buy a first gear until you see the extent of the wreckage!   Usually the corresponding gear on the laygear is also destroyed!  Depending on how bad, you should consider upgrading to a 4-synchro box casting 22g1128....  Often they can cost less, and the difference in drivability and strength is night and day!

Here's the 4-synchro rebuilt box we offer:

//www.minimania.com/part/RJH1111E/Mini-Cooper-4-Sync-Remote-Gearbox-344

 Posted: Aug 1, 2014 11:52AM
 Edited:  Aug 1, 2014 12:40PM
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My car has the non- sync first gear trans....first gear decided to work no longer yesterday...diagnosis from a local mini repair garage is a new gear needed ...any thoughts on what the cost should / would be ?

Pat