Many of the dizzy caps sold now are crap. It's getting hard to find good ones.

I bought a new 43D/45D cap in a green Lucas box. It was so loose (1.5mm radial clearance) on the dizzy body that I had to sand 1mm off the end of the rotor, so it missed the plug lead posts. Probably made in China now.
I then bought 2 more from a different supplier, in white boxes, again probably Chinese. Radial clearance on body was 1mm. When I clipped one cap on, the clip went through the side of the cap, it was moulded so thin there. I epoxied it up as a spare.

Chinese `quality' anyone?

I agree. I definitely buy quality parts. I'm just saying you can find quality parts with aluminum terminals as well. And if you don't mind changing a cap every 5-15 years, then aluminum seems a beter choice to me. I tend to change out dizzy caps at the first sign of fatigue anyway, so I've never had one fail on me. 

If your best bet is a cap with 90° leads, and you can only find them in aluminum, I don't think that's a bad trade. 

when the words you are looking for are said by someone else then by golly use them. its not like i am selling anything or making money ect.

the reason link was not posted is that who would click it much less read it.

the higher end cars has brass caps. I am sure porche ferrari ect use brass and so to performance applications.

//www.ebay.com/itm/Mallory-29509-Distributor-Cap-Rotor-Tune-up-Kit-series-37-38-dist-/261567668601?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AFerrari&hash=item3ce6a5e179&vxp=mtr

//www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block-Mopar-Dodge-Chrysler-273-360-V8-Ready-to-Run-Distributor-w-Red-Cap-/271135875872?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f20f52320&vxp=mtr

terminals look brass to me on those two

brass or copper alloy can have ratio changed to suite the needs of the engineer or the product application.

I found a place that sells copper alloy caps for 20$ plus 6$ shipping. they re not angled terminals

aluminum is cheaper and the bean counters figure they can save money on manufacture costs and sell more caps.

ill gladly spend more money to get a better part that will last longer that will require less maintence.

I don't want you to think im "flaming" you or trying to start some dumb internet fight because I'm not. I just have a big problem with your last post because well.. none of those words are yours.  

I just don't want someone who is less knowledgeable about this to come in here and take your post as gospel. Mainly because you simply copied and pasted the words of a bunch of jeep guys who clearly don't know what they are talking about and you put them into one post and tried to pass them off as your own words/experiences. The way the words were put together came across as a bit abrasive. That sort of ruffles me. At least say "I found this on another forum". Ironically you stole the words from a forum that I'm a member of. Haha. What are the odds. 

//www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/distributor-cap-brass-versus-aluminum-973288/

And if that's not enough, the first jeeper you quoted:

"Solarpower" says:

"Generally caps with brass contacts are better overall quality, brass is more expensive and more difficult to work with than alum.

A cheaper cap has a tendency to be made of blah blah blah...

I will go brass every time yadda yadda yadda..."

But the part you didn't quote was where he says that brass is a superior conductor... which is completely false. So I don't put much value in his opinion. Making the leap that brass is more expensive thus the plastic will be higher quality doesn't compute with me. 

You can buy a low quality brass contact cap and have the same problem. Or you can buy a high quality aluminum contact cap and have great success.

Take, for example, the 1968 Mercury Cougar my brothers and I finished rebuilding in 2001. It's had the same aluminum contact high quality distributor cap for 13 years. No problems. 

 Again. Please don't take this as me flaming you. But you're trying to make your point with opinions and flawed science from a bunch of jeep guys. I just don't think it benefits anyone. 

If you want a brass conductor, then go for it. Haha. I really only posted to say that cupcake was right about the conductivity. My opinion is that replacing a distributor cap every 5 years isn't a big deal. If you want an ignition system that will last 20 years with limited issues get rid of the distributor completely. 

Generally caps with brass contacts are better overall quality, brass is more expensive and more difficult to work with than alum.
A cheaper cap has a tendency to be made of thinner plastic and of less quality. With all of the temp changes a cap goes through it expands and contracts often..this leads to hairline cracks in cheaper plastic and allows moisture to get inside the cap
moisture is bad inside a cap even if you have silver contacts

I will go brass every time with distributor rotors and caps because it is made more heavily to easily outlast the cheap thin aluminum contacts used in cheap rotors and caps. Every cheap rotor or distributor cap I have ever see used thin pieces of aluminum which wears more quickly than heavy brass contacts do.

And because the voltage passing through the distributor cap and rotor is so very high (40KV to 100KV) and the current (microamperes) is next to nothing, the added resistance of brass is meaningless and for all intents and purposes, does not reduce the voltage provided to the spark plug in a significant manner. Ohm's Law and all that kind of malarky

What's "HVE," you ask? It stands for "High Voltage Erosion," and is the process by which distributor cap terminals and the rotor vane wear. Every time a spark jumps across a gap, a tiny bit of material gets blasted out of the surface of both parts. After a while, there isn't enough material left to have a proper gap.

Note that this is an erosive process, and not a corrosive one. Corrosion can be prevented, but erosion not so much

my accell caps are brass on my gm products and the cap are 17-19 years old. and are still in awsome shape

the cap on my mini is 4 years old and is pitted and wore out

lets not forget aluminum is cheaper

Cup Cake nailed it. Conductivity: Silver -> Copper -> Gold -> Aluminum (in its varying alloys) -> Brass

And there's a massive jump between those. Annealed copper is held as the international standard for measuring conductivity (and its inverse of resistivity). So assuming copper is 100% of the standard, Silver is about 108% as conductive as copper, gold is about 70% as conductive, and pure aluminum is about 60%. Then you have brass which is between 32% and 37% as conductive...

Stick with the Al points.

Aluminum is used because its twice as conductive as brass. You could use 90 degree caps on the distributer to solve the proximity to the grill problem.

I have seen that cap used with clips and not screws. It requires you grind grooves for the clips to seat in. Email me if you want to know about high quality dizzy parts. Steve(CTR)

  that as the wires positioned like the one the host sells. my distributor is  an Aldon and it is non-vacuum yellow for A+ . the following numbers are stamped on the distributor engine is a 1380 with electronic ignition

100 ayp

 and

12/97 or 47.

my cap   is held by clips but I dont quite understand the hosts ad. does the host use clips or screws

the stock cap is wore out an the wires are to close to the grill for my likeing. I was looking around for a brass instead of aluminum terminal distributor cap but no luck. In my opinion aluminum pitts to easy and wears out to fast.

//minimania.com/part/DDB194/Cap-Distributor-74-Side-Entry--Sprite--Midget