Having located the source of the leak and mashing my knuckles to reach in and fix, I was then rushed off for a family gathering. Finding the time to get back to trying my brake line fix the next day, the keys to the car disappeared, not long after my wife asked how safe the floors on the car were!  After laughing and saying "don't lift up the carpet" i asked "why did she want to know?". She said she had a dream I was driving along and the seat fell through the floor!  So the question is, has the happened to anyone before?

I forgot to mention, I'm in KC, so auto zone maybe the only source for the flaring tool, I used when fixing my wife's Buick!

The leak is coming from the compression fitting, the brake line has bent, allowing fluid out and thus air in.   I need to remove it to see if there is a hole in the brake line or if it can be saved, while I source a replacement.  Thanks for the suggestion minimike, I will give that a go

Might not be a split pipe at all. Maybe during previous brake work one or both of the copper washers either side of the fitting the brake lines go into has been left out causing a leak?

you should replace that section of bad brake line, and although compression fittings are used, I would not suggest that you try it. There area is hard to access. If you can't wiggle your hands into the area to remove the line, remove the clutch motor mount and the dog bone and jack up that side of the engine a bit. you can leave the rad mount in place along with the exhaust. It will limit how much you can jack the engine.

Likely, that hole in the brake line was allowing air back into the system every time you took your foot off the brake.

Fix the leaks, then bleed and see what you have.

If you're making your own lines, you need a special flaring tool. Post where you are and maybe someone local can lend you one.

Thanks for the help.  I have located a leak in one of the unions on the front subframe.  However, it is the one right underneath the throw out clutch arm.  Can I remove the clutch throw out arm nut, to access the union.  Or am I in danger of opening a can of worms?

You should never have to double pump brakes. I would suggest that the brakes have not been adjusted correctly. Also have you checked the master cylinder to see if the fluid level has dropped over time. You may have a leak or possibly lose front adjuster which keeps backing off giving a longer pedal. 

Cc true, but I did that last year, I have always had to pump the brakes twice to get the car to stop, but stop it did.  I would lose fluid every so often and then bleed the brakes again and back to a two pump brake.  Just talking about my problem has given me ideas, I have brake fluid dripping at the front of the front subframe, so I will see if there is a broken line somewhere. The dreaded master cylinder clevis pin is still attached to the pedal, however.  Thanks for the help and suggestions.  keep them coming.  With no pressure on the pedal, can I just detach the brake line at the master cylinder and pump fluid through to check for leaks?

When you opened up the system to repair the slave cylinder enough air could have been introduced that no amount of pumping will over come. You might just need to bleed the system.

I have a 1977 clubman estate, 1098, drums all round with a single line system. I had a spot leak, I thought was oil, but I checked again and it is brake fluid.  I will be trying to find the source of the leak, as it doesn't appear to be the master cylinder, as those, from my research, when they go bad, tend to leak down on to the pedals.  Other than change the brake pads and repair a brake cylinder, nothing major has been done.  Thanks.

tinovdv:

Brakes are complicated.

What happens when the pedal is pushed is very complicated.

If your car has a dual braking system, there are more complications.

Could you post what car you have, what year, if you have all drum, disk/drum, aftermarket components, power brakes, dual braking system and if you have done any work on your brakes?

Something that may be true for one system may not be true for another.

We will try to help when we know what you have.

Russ

So if you can pump up your brakes and they work, you have air in your brake lines?  If you pump and the pedal just springs back, with no brakes, you need to rebuild the master cylinder? Is this the correct diagnosis?