Ball joint taper won't release
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Sep 3, 2014 01:25AM | jeg | |
Sep 2, 2014 09:51PM | Air2air | |
Sep 2, 2014 09:44AM | malsal | |
Sep 1, 2014 06:47PM | mur | |
Sep 1, 2014 06:42PM | MtyMous | |
Sep 1, 2014 10:45AM | charrison | Edited: Sep 1, 2014 07:36PM |
Sep 1, 2014 07:47AM | tmsmith | |
Sep 1, 2014 07:44AM | Cup Cake | |
Aug 31, 2014 07:43PM | helpmymini | |
Aug 31, 2014 04:47PM | Minimike1 | |
Aug 31, 2014 03:22PM | Cheleker | |
Aug 31, 2014 02:26PM | Willie_B | Edited: Aug 31, 2014 03:12PM |
Aug 31, 2014 02:13PM | Cheleker | |
Aug 31, 2014 12:52PM | pixieracing | Edited: Aug 31, 2014 12:53PM |
Aug 31, 2014 12:41PM | tinovdv | |
Aug 31, 2014 12:29PM | tmsmith |
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When the joint is spinning and you can't get the nut off, try placing a jack under the arm, use light pressure and lift it a tad.
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I tend to have the opposite problem where the nut comes off only so far, then the ball can rotate and the threaded bolt section with it. So you're left with no way to get the nut the rest of the way off since the whole thing is turning.
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I find it seems to help when i put a piece of scrap wood under the top arm (especially if the little rubber stop is missing) so you are not working against the weight of the hub assembly and when it breaks loose the lower arm clears the ball joint knuckle easier.
Tim you should have left the nut on the threads until it broke loose.
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If a real SP tool is having trouble, go back to a pickle fork and go nuts with a hammer. Every now and again in life you will get one that is incredibly hard. If the fork does not work take it all apart and change the upper arm and disassemble the joint from the inside out!
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Pickle fork, grease the boots, and an air hammer. I've never had one give me trouble. If the air hammer doesn't do it, then one small blow from the 4lb. sledge finishes it every time.
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I put a 6 foot crow bar through the arm and under the subframe and get her ladyship to sit/lean on it.
(Mine is quite cuddly as shown at left).
Then with two hammers, one either side, hit the taper joint hard from the sides simultaneously.
The idea is that the twin hits spring the joint oval for a milli-second and the pre-laoding makes it jump apart.
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Jemal's video does look interesting. I suppose an air hammer can be found at Harbor Freight cheaply. Not sure how the wrench between the two arms works though when both arms are connected.
The splitter tool is the Sykes Pickavant version which looks even more robust than the one MM currenlty sells if the picture is accurate.
Eventually it yielded to a BFH under pressure from the tool. Ball joint threads are shot though
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I've always used a pickle fork but I lather the dust boot with grease to prevent damaging it.
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Good luck.
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I had one so stuck that I broke a splitter. the threads stripped right out of the casting. I had to use a pickle fork with a BFH and beat the crap out of it. I thought I was gonna slip and ruin something or hurt myself by how hard I had to smack it. And I had to keep smacking it a while before it finally opened. Don't give up.
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Which reminds me that it helps to take the front shock off.
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Bloke on here has a good idea or two to try.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnPHp9iM6lg
The air hammer looks like a something to try.
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SP tool? Are you using a pickle fork or a lever spliter like this: //www.minimania.com/part/07-035/Ball-Joint-Splitter-Lever
Oh, and is the car hydrolastic or dry? If hydro., remember to have the back of the car off of the ground as well as the front.
If your are using the splitter and the car is dry suspension and it is not coming apart, try to add pixie's hammer process with the splitter in place.
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take two big hammers put one on the one horizontal side of the tapered end and hit the other side hard while the pressure is on , if not heat even with propane .
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I had to use a BIG hammer, but they finally released. I thought I was going to break it or knock the car off it's jack, but they finally released!
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Never had a ball jont not release when using the tool. My SP tool is bending before this one will release.
I have tried from front and from back and left it under pressure when I went in for lunch. Still no release. I would hate to have to try heat in those close quarters.
Any other suggestions?
Terry