We'll see about the hubs. I really wanted the metro balljoints and there were numerous other benefits that pushed me over the edge. 

So you went with alloy hubs, I would have heated the hubs with a electric heat gun and check temp with a point and shoot infra red tester. I also machined a set of alloy tools to align the races and seals as I tap them in. While I'd like a set of those for a race car (hubs) I'm not sure I'd want them for the street. Steve (CTR)

Ok. So after the last post, I took one set of wheel bearings out of the freezer and let them warm up to room temperature. Then I started to install them. The bearing races were at room temp in the garage (85°f) and they were installed into brand new hubs. They were a total pain to get started evenly, and then were very snug as I pushed them al the way to their seat. 

 

I then took a set straight out of the freezer and repeated. Much easier to get them started square, and SUBSTANTIALLY easier to press them to the seat. Both brand new machined aluminum hubs and machined bearing races. Only variable was freezing. I would say it made enough of a difference that I'll continue doing it. 

I always freeze my bearings overnight before installing them. Not sure how much of a difference it makes as ive never measured them before or after. But in my mind it's working better than when I didnt freeze them. Maybe im just getting better at it. Haha

It won't reduce diameter of the steel bearing enough to make any difference.

I use a hot air gun to warm the alloy housing to about 75C or so. That makes quite a diameter difference.

I seem to recall from some time in the past, a recomendation to cool the bearings in dry ice to install them, especially in the clutch housing. Has anyone tried this?

I used the puller set from harbor freight on the rear swing arm bearings. I used a hack saw blade to cut through the bronze bush in the swing arm, then bent it up with screw driver, and pulled it out..

The idler bearing was tougher. If I remember correctly, the bearing puller ripped out the needle bearings but left the shell. I got a small screw driver between the aluminum case and the bearing shell. Pryed, and beat the hell out of it till I got the shell out of the aluminum. Pressing in was no issue. Just rigged something up with the vice, and a socket of roughly the same size.

I  use an idler gear and thrust washer. Tap it in (making sure it's square at the start); then use a socket, extension bar and hammer to tap the bearing in just below flush.

 

But please offer suggestions for installing the bearings, especialy the idler bearing in the clutch housing.

I had a machine shop tig weld the bearing for the idler in the alum case and the heat shrunk it when it cooled. the bit of rod he welded to the bearing acted as a handle and he just pulled it out.

.... which suggests a possible product that could be developed and sold by our host. Or somebody with the machinery and know-how. If we can get synthetic rocker cover gaskets and such...

 

Thanks for the explanations, good Doctor!

wouldn't mind offering it to anyone local or elsewhere. Shipping might get up there as it's hefty and kind of awkward shaped/long. But why not? get in touch if you need it.

Yeah, kinda makes it a doodle.
I didn't even bother with the slide hammer part of the kit. Once the collet is locked up, a long drift worked just fine.

Now that you're done with it, maybe you can offer it up to local folks.

Most successful thread ever. 

 

The slide hammer bearing puller from Harbor Freight worked perfectly on all front bearings and rear bearings. 

For the bushing, I used my "beater" flat head screw driver whose sole purpose in life is to beat/chisel/pry. I was able to deform the bush just enough to break the friction between it and the arm. It didn't take much. Then I used the same bearing puller to coax it out. Came out smooth. 

 

Worth every penny.

1. To fit a needle bearing to the outer end, the radius arm would need to be set up in a big lathe, and the outer end bored out to match the inner end.
This will not then have the wall thickness that the inner end does but it should not be a problem.

2. I've not seen the steel spacer tubes except still in original arms. If you've got em, keep em. All the replacement kits for the last 30? years seem to have come with a plastic tube. Recent ones are very poorly moulded rubbish. The recent pivot shafts are nowhere near the originals for hardness or depth thereof either. I hardness tested a bunch last year.

2 questions:

1. In later cars, is it possible to use roller bearings at both ends of the rear swing arm shafts? What modifications would be necessary?

2. Are metal grease tubes readily available? Any modificationds required to use them?

Coopertune, contact me off line at [email protected]      Thank u

As Steve says, early cars had a bush both ends. I have been told the inner one used to seize due to lack of grease, that's why they changed it to a needle bearing around 1961. There is more load there than the outer end, due to the thrust from the suspension cone.
People forgot there are grease nipples on these pivot shafts...

Oz Mokes with 13" wheels and the longer radius arms all got a needle bearing at BOTH ends, to cope with the additional load. At least we don't need to align ream a bronze bush.

Yes I have removed a couple of grease gun tubes of grease from some rears. That's why I'd like new steel tubes. I have installed bushes on both ends and early cars with welded rear arms had bushes at both ends. The inner end does more work and maybe why the bearing. I have made tooling to do both early and late swing arms. I have machined up bushing for the front as well. I like it better for race cars. Steve (CTR)