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 Posted: Feb 13, 2015 06:30PM
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i have the same issues, with the same wheel and tire set up, mostly above 70 but i found that the wheels if checked spin out of round, the wheel not the tire, that if you install the wheels carfully to line up the rim better before snugging them down they ride smother if i just throw em on and expect the lug nuts to center them like on most cars it fails to line the wheel up correctly. maybe the lug nut holes are worn from the amount of times i pulled the dang things off i dont know but that has been my issue.  also worn outer cv joints have caused the same issue for me. its getting to upset me to the point i am in the market for new wheels to see if my rim is just to worn.  its an easy check jack up the front and spin the wheel and watch the rim to spin evenly not the tire, the rim, if it doesnt then pull the tire and spin the disk brake and check that. if you have a worn cv joint the disk brake will not spin even it will woble just a bit, one other thing is to clean the mounting surface on the tire to ensure you are getting a even mounting of the rim... i have been chaseing this rabit for a while....

i had rotated mine like you and the same result just to have it return when i had them rotated, and it started shakeing again.  i have had my tires balanced like 5 times and aligned 3... i am getting new wheels..

 Posted: Sep 23, 2014 05:02AM
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CA

Good news for you. (Now I have to think about the vibrations I ahve been ignoring in my car. Pretty sure it is wheel balance too,.)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 22, 2014 03:30PM
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US

So I'm pretty sure it's wheel balance. I rotated the tires front to back and nearly cured the shakes, I'm pretty sure if I get them rebalanced it will. Cup Cake and Dan Moffet pretty much got it right.

 

 

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 05:17PM
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or maybe the clutch lining is slipping intermittently

 

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 02:12PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cup Cake

If it comes and goes its probably tires and pavement conditions. Maybe the weight and width of the wheels and tires is just to much for the light car like a Mini.

Pretty light setup, Minilite brand 12x5 wheels Yoko A539 165/60/12 they're much lighter than the steel wheels with 145/70/12 Pirellis

 

 

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 09:30AM
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If it comes and goes its probably tires and pavement conditions. Maybe the weight and width of the wheels and tires is just to much for the light car like a Mini.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 09:19AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet

I'd also check the upper and lower ball joints, especially if they weren't lapped. They may have worn in and gone out of spec. Ditto on the steering arm ends. (You did say "refurbed or replaced".)

I'm using KAD hubs so it has sealed upper and lower ball joints. I think I'll try moving the tires first and get under it and check everything again.

 

 

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 05:48AM
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CA

I'd also check the upper and lower ball joints, especially if they weren't lapped. They may have worn in and gone out of spec. Ditto on the steering arm ends. (You did say "refurbed or replaced".)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 05:42AM
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CA

Wheel imbalance usually shows up as vibration at certain road speeds (when you're close to the harmonics of the imbalance).

Brake judder would occur with the brakes applied (or dragging).

Alignment problems would usually be indicated by poor handling under certain conditions - power on/power off with or without steering application (any conbination), with road surface adding to or reducing the effect. This could include wheel hop or judder on hard engine braking. In a Mini, "alignment" includes all of the mentioned suspension components and subframe mounts, but also the engine mounts and steadies. Re-check then all. The standard engine dog-bone brace mounting on the firewall is easy to overlook - it has two components, a welded on lower bracket and the heavier upper plate.

In my car, the lower bracket had come loose at some point in its history, been tack-welded back on, and come loose again. This put all the load on the upper plate, which eventually tore the bolt hole out with metal fatigue. In the attaached pic, you can see the aluminum checker plate I made to replace it. Just below the heater hose, you can see the clutch hydraulic fitting and the lower bracket, which is turned 90 degrees and held up by the new bolted on lower bracket. The knobs of weld are facaing the camera. This earler weak point allowed the motor to rock the subframe enough to cause the metal fatigue crack in the floor. That problem indicted itself with a body creak/snap sound on decelleration/accelleration, that seemed to come from below the steering column. It just shows how all the little mounting bits work together.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 05:27AM
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Disk or drum brakes....could be sticking intermittently

"When I find the broken part that stops my mini from running I'm taking it off an beating the hell out of it" Laughing

 Posted: Sep 19, 2014 03:02AM
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did you check the tear drop front bushings and the rear front subframe mounts?

 Posted: Sep 18, 2014 06:03PM
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Rotate the tires and see if it changes?  Just a thought-  what if an Off balance wheel?

 Posted: Sep 18, 2014 05:14PM
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Alignment on a Hunter less then 2K ago.

 

 

 Posted: Sep 18, 2014 05:08PM
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I have had this problem for about 12 months also.  I've started with the small stuff balancing the tires. I also had an alignment done was by somebody with the string method it still did not cure the problem. My next step is to get a laser alignment since I've also replaced all the cones suspension to hi-lows with red springs. Sometimes the problem arises driving down a hill driving up the hill 55 miles an hour 60 miles an hour 65 miles an hour very intermittent driving me nuts.

 Jason

 Posted: Sep 18, 2014 04:47PM
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Whens the last time you have done an alignment?

 Jason

 Posted: Sep 18, 2014 04:25PM
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Car 1293 A+ single HIF44 SU new everything in the front end, cones, ball joints, bushings, upper control arm pivot, steering rod ends anything that moves was refurbed or replaced except the CV joints which were newish and don't make any noise, new Minilte wheels and Yoko tires, new upper and lower engine steadies, new rotors/pads. When I lift off the throttle at around 50mph I get a shake through the steering wheel it comes and goes. Doesn't really make noise just shakes. It sometimes does it on the highway around 70 but not all of the time. I checked all the lug nuts, no noticeable play in the front bearings (grab the tire and shake method) Any good guesses? can it be the motor leaning out and vibrating? In general the car runs good.