Check the resistance of your spark plug & coil leads. I bin them if over 5K ohm.
I threw away a friend's set this week, it had starting & running problems including plug wetting. The leads all read open circuit when checked on the 20K ohm scale of a DVM.
A new set of leads and it's now fine, there was no other problem.

These days I only use inductive core leads, the cheapo carbonized string cored ones [eg old Top Guns] go open circuit with age. Inductive core ones eg Bosch don't.

very little or no spark you say .

Please be more specific

i assume you mean at one of the spark plugs with its wire attached and the plug grounded to the block.

you could test with the big wire that goes from the coil to the center of the distributor. That would tell different information

what does the inside of the distributor look like?

To be blunt.....do you know how to do points and condensor, and anything else ignition-wise?

after running when the engine is hot I will shut the car off and attempt to turn it on after maybe 5 minutes, it turns over but their is very little if any spark. I replaced the coil to try to fix this issue.

Spank's problem sounds a bit different to me, so I will respond to MGravina first:

Your car is a 1980 Mini. What carburetor do you have? Is it a HS-4 with the Waxstat main jet?

If so, this type of jet runs the car a bit rich while cool, but as it warms up, the wax expands, leaning out the mixture. If you have set the idle mixture too lean, then it will go very lean when the engine is hot and you let it sit for awhile. Try using partial choke to restart the hot engine at first. If it coughs a bit then you'll know it is too lean, and then maybe add a bit more choke to see if it starts. Other things you can check are that the manifold and carb bolts are tight, all the hoses etc are connected properly and securely, and that your gas isn't boiling.

If you have a HIF-type carb, then the bimetal lever inside does the same thing as the Waxstat. The hottere the engine, the worse it seems to be.

I've got the same problem on one of my cars. In my case it's because my needle is too rich at the bottom end and I can't lean it out any more or else it's not right at cruise speeds. I've just been too lazy to sort it out with new needles or a file.

What I will have to do is put my foot to the floor and open the throttle completely and then crank it a few times and hold the starter on until it catches and sometimes it will start to run very sluggishly until I can coax it to finally start to rev. 

Need some diagnostic tests and more clues.

you replaced the coil because why? do you have no spark when warm? is this the clue we should follow?  (rather than, say, fuel)

a coil may have a reputation of failing under heat, but other parts of the electrical system, for example the condensor, could be the problem.

bottom line: need to know if you have spark

Does it sound like it is firing? Remove one of the spark plugs after trying to start it to see if they are soaked in gas.

Just for grins after it is warm and you shut it off remove the gas cap. If there is a whoosh of air into the tank the the tank vent may be blocked or your cap is not vented.

Hi, I have a 1980 Austin mini and it wont start when it is warm. After sitting for a couple of hours and attempting to turn on it will fire right up however after running and getting up to temperature if turned off it wont start back up. I have replace the ignition coil but it did not help. Any suggestions?

Thanks