an update on my Shifter repair:

i installed the shifter back and wow, i cant believe it , i reduce the shifter play for about 80%,  its a lot tighter now. and it engages way better. 

.....more modifications to come, as my project stinky continues..

//youtu.be/SyP-Ij3A1TQ

thanks jeg, the points is ok tho but it gets out of tune on high rpm, then it will leave me with 3 cylinders running, just got tired of it, im geting the petronix 2.  594d

"jeg, what distributor system you got?  do you have the electronic or point?  what distributor can you recomend for my 1977 classic mini special."

Use whatever distributor your engine spec. requires - 

There are many good (fit and forget) electronic systems out there, lotta folks use Petronix, lotta folks use AccuSpark, lotta folks use the Crane, or Luminition Magnatronic etc.  I'm using Luminition Optronic.

i see.

jeg, what distributor system you got?  do you have the electronic or point?  what distributor can you recomend for my 1977 classic mini special.

currently, i have the Lucas distributor / point

No (wait, I take that back) - I had some clutch issues once, severe judder.  I replaced the complete system.  I made it a point of replacing and engine mounts and upper stabilizer bushes while I was doing the clutch/flywheel upgrades.  I later added the lower (forward to subframe) and 2 x lower rearward to subframe, having previously solidified my subframe mounts.

In my quest to make my loose, de-virginized annoying Shifter, i did some cheap DIM modification.  

(DIM=do it myself)

after thorough cleaning

i attached a rubber gromet thingie to minimize the excessive wobble, ( its from my bicycles rubbber handle grip)

this one is loose too, i inserted a thin galvanized metal sheet to make it tight.

i borrowed my wife's nail file to smoothen the surface of the modified washer

ready to be pushed inside, need to force it a bit

need to seal it with silicon rubber sealant 

btw, the washer measures one and a half inches. 

ok, now for the ball, i inserted a plastic plate cut out, from a mobile1 oil, the oil is expensive so i guess the plastic container is durable too, lol

heat it up until it looks bendable

force it down to take the shape of the ball

ok then just cut the excess

ok, just waiting for the silicon rubber to solidify then ill re-instal the shifter.

Robster:

Your upper engine steady should run from the block back to the firewall. The end circled in blue should be snug, with both ends of the bolt supported with a bracket like that. The other end at the firewall, circled in white should be supported top at both ends of the bolt.

The part on my car circled in orange is the lower bracket. In theis picture it is turned 90 degrees from where it should be. It also supports the clutch hydraulic connection. The orange arrow points to the weld that failed. The green arrow points to the hole that the engine steady bolt is supposed to be supported by. You can't see it, but I took a short piece of angle iron and bolted it to the firewall (I don't have a welder.)

The bolt circled in white must be supported at both ends or it will metal-fatigue the havy stamped plate through which the heater hoses pass (or the master cylinders on a right hand drive car).

Good effort, but I suspect that the factory used the front bolt and not the rear bolt for a reason - stiffer bracket with less sideflex.

//www.minimania.com/part/NAM3760/Bracket-Lower-Right-Front-Stabilizer

dan i dont have the  lower firewall bracket i may need to fabricate something for it as well ,good you told me that. 

jeg, did you ever had issues with vibration during take off and when shifting gears before you did the bracket on yours?

ty

Looks robust.  Of course, you could also add the 2 lower stabilizers that mount rearwards to the subframe also.  I did this to mine many years ago as a suplement to the standard upper and the one that you just repaired and the engine is still sitting mighty solid.

Robster, you should (if you haven't already) check the upper engine steady at both ends. Check not only that the bolts are tight but that the upper and lower firewall brackets are in good condition. Check also that the subframe-to-body mounts are all secure and complete - 2 tower bolts, 2 front bolts and both floor connections.

thanks Dan, the vibration lessen for about 70%..good enough

Nice work, robster!

no, Mal, there is at least one and a half inch clearance from the nut.

ty

Looks good but won't you have to remove it every time you change the oil ?

bracket done

This thread is for mini owners who restores his own car but with little budget. 

1) my car vibrates when shifting gears, i need to fabricate some motor mount...

more pics to come