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 Posted: Oct 2, 2014 04:52AM
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I'd guess I have had my Blue Point /Snap On tool 35 years and it still make great flares both types. I have had to replace the tiny adapter twice over the years. Bought one had one replaced by Snap On last time. You are right not much help at auto part stores now. I find the Bundy Flex display and pick what works for me. The long 5 footers are good to chop up. The metric 12 inch ones a source for the 12 mm end I needed gives two per purchase. Yes, I run hard pipe on all my jobs. A set of Eastwood brake line pliers are a great addition to your kit. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Oct 1, 2014 03:28PM
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Coppertune-the guys at the auto parts store were not helpful, so I dug through the rack and got it done.

I bought a flare tool from o'reillys and it works fine. Occasionally I jack up an end and have to give it a 2nd shot. After having done a couple cars myself, I find it more cost effective and easier than worrying about pipes being slightly off. Plus what's more manly than making your own lines? Grunt.

 Posted: Oct 1, 2014 01:54PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtyMous

Thanks for the pictures and advice, guys. It seems that the line running from the T-fitting at the rear to the proportioning valve is just to long. Now I have to decide if I'm going to bend it into a coil or just bite the bullet and go out, buy a double flaring tool, and make this one the correct length. I'm leaning towards option 2. I'll keep you all posted.

As a word of caution/advice, if you are anything like me, you will have zero luck with a cheap flaring tool.
I have tried a bucnch of different ones and successfuly rendered brake pipe into scrap metal.

There is an industrial hose place near my house that will put any size tub nut on any length of pipe I supply with any flare I require for less than $10. If I need the pipe as well, it is a smidge more.

 money well spent in my opinion.

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Oct 1, 2014 04:50AM
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94 are you aware you can buy the 12mm tube nut and make it onto the std 3/16 hard pipe and go directly in. I keep drawers of all the different tube nuts, male and female brake fittings. Have a drawer for metric ones as well. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 30, 2014 07:50PM
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Thanks for the pictures and advice, guys. It seems that the line running from the T-fitting at the rear to the proportioning valve is just to long. Now I have to decide if I'm going to bend it into a coil or just bite the bullet and go out, buy a double flaring tool, and make this one the correct length. I'm leaning towards option 2. I'll keep you all posted.

 Posted: Sep 29, 2014 07:49PM
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I would have snapped some pics of what I did today had I known. But, in the end I bought raw lines and made all the stuff myself. Finding the reducer for the 12mm and all the right threads was kind of a headache. I didn't realize the yellow master had a 12mm on the bottom.

 Posted: Sep 29, 2014 06:19AM
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If I recall, I cut my line to the rear as it was to long swapped out the brake line that runs on the rightside front subframe to the brake switch,. I used the proportioning valve from the 86(same car yellow band came from). i tried to mount the proportioning valve in the stock location that it was in 86

 Posted: Sep 29, 2014 05:59AM
 Edited:  Sep 29, 2014 06:01AM
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Image Gallery

Here's a "factory original" installation (i.e. I don't think anybody has ever done anything to it).

You can see the two lines passing directly behind the carb. The uppermost line in the second pic is the clutch hard line. Just between the wiper motor and the windshield washer reservoir, you can see the ends of the hard lines from the master entering the proportioning valve.

 

(These pics also show the before and after of a carb swap.)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 29, 2014 05:48AM
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Both the lines running from my master cylinder to the pressure reducing valve are flexible (not hard lines).  I just routed them up and over the firewall opening.  BTW mine is LHD.  I'll post a pic for you tonight.

 Posted: Sep 28, 2014 06:30PM
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Yeah. I've got the same unstructions. Thanks for posting though. It will probably help someone else in my position. 

I'm sort of more looking at how the main tube connecting the proportioning valve and the rear tee is connected. Like i said, mine ia little over a foot too long. I can either coil it up or I can cut and re-flare.

 Posted: Sep 28, 2014 03:44PM
 Edited:  Sep 28, 2014 03:46PM
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Maybe this will help you.  It's the instructions that came with my yellow band master cylinder.  If you _really_ want a picture of my setup I can upload it.  Take a look at the instructions first and see if you still need more info.

BTW, swapping to the yellow band master cylinder was a PITA for me, not difficult just involved - I had to not only change the master cylinder but also the lines from it to the pressure reducer valve on the firewall.  Changing lines means making lines, and the lines have bubble flare ends, not SAE double flare.  There are four fittings total - two at the master cylinder and two at the pressure reducer.  So naturally [the British found a more complicated solution and decided to persue it] there are four different sized fittings - 12mm, 10mm, 3/8x24, and 7/16x20.  A hokey setup but with the right fittings it works fine.


Inline image is below.  If you want the full size image you can find it here.

 Posted: Sep 28, 2014 01:57PM
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Does anyone have a picture of their brake lines. I need a picture of the yellow tag brake master cylinder and how all of the lines ar e plumbed in. The reason I ask is because my main hard line that goes from the rear of the car to the front proportioning valve is about 1 foot too long. I'm using the FAM7821in my car. Thinking about getting rid of it and going with a wilwood proportioning valve for the rear. 

 

Thanks