the best part was the last part... when the "boy" said aaaaaaah sharrap !!!!

OUCH!!

dont worry, we all get there, i'll have my time,,, not soon tho ,, lol 

Speaking of roosters, watch this for every time Foghorn Leghorn says "boy".

Foghorn Leghorn and the boy

hahaha, no jeg that's not the word.

plus, i clean my feet everyday, lol

//www.m.webmd.boots.com/a-to-z-guides/verrucas-symptoms-treatment-prevention

Could that word have been 'Verruca'?

I have no idea. This is a picture of the front...

wait....ill put you into some test,,,there is a word that was written in the backside of my mini, what is that word??

Robster. I tried to send you an email but you don't have one posted. Send an email to the account in my profile. I think I have an old photo of your car but I didn't want to post it here if it's not yours. lol

just hang with us fitz, don't be away too long, your'e missing a lot of exciting thing things, im putting some touch of youth on this forum,they take care of the technical side and i'll take care of the entertainment.

My style is different, im not the type who just buy parts, i fix them first,modify and utilize whatever i have in my backyard.

The best part of having a mini is fixing and modifying...driving comes next....

The ideal Mini for me is the one that is reliable nothing else...i don't care about speed(vtec? not in my radar)

You mean Rooster?

I really haven't been around here much in the past few years, but this whole Robster episode reminds me of Amber.

Did anyone see this video?

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiW_HODxj1g (has 2 mushy-type HT leads, filmed in non-VVS format)

Irony?

Published on 11 Oct 2014 

Other issues aside, note the lack of a clutch arm clevis pin.  If there are threads passing through the slave cylinder rod eyelet and top of the mangled clutch arm, said threads are likely squashed/beaten flat and this could, amongst other things, contribute to the 'vague' clutch action.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcKAO-3uFb4 (has only 1 mushy-type HT lead, older video, 'Finally')

Cheers -

I've moved from that house, sadly. It was before I was active duty Air Force. But yes, the garage had A/C and a heater. Full refrigerator, 3.5 car garage, hot and cold water access, and oversized insulated doors were added later.

I miss that place.

Please hold your phone horizontally when you take this next video. And feel free to shoot me an email if you need help.

ok, im gonna do it now, i will pull the hose and insert a little screw in it....i will leave the dizzy part open, let's see if the white dot will change it's position. heading to the garage right now,  gotta inhale some monoxide again.,lol.... thanks dan! 

btw, mightymouse, is your garage with A/C?..  i like the flooring, really nice!

Woops. Sorry guys. I was posting too fast. haha. I meant to cap the carb so that it doesn't screw up the mix (if it even starts at all). Don't cap the Dizzy. I wasn't thinking.

You only need to plug the air leak to the carb - easiest way is to take the hose off the dizzy and put a small bolt in it. Nothing more.

That's what it is supposed to do!

The vacuum advance works while there is high vacuum from the carb - when you are at idle, the throttle is closed and the engine is sucking on it like you do with a straw in a thick milkshake. The purpose is to advance the timing at idle to get a leaner combustion. But when you open the throttle a bit, the vacuum dies away and relaxes the vacuum advance, adjusting the idle back for better engine transition from idle to revs.

As your revs come up, the centrifgal advance starts to work to move the spark timing ahead to compensate for the speed the pistons are moving so you get the maximum effect of the burn event a the right time to give the best push on the piston for more POWER!

And it is all done with POINTS!

Now I just can't resist saying "I (we) told you so!"

The bit of dancing is normal - there are so many other variables besides ignition that will give erratic timing - e.g. how well the carb is tuned and how worn it is, if the valve lash is set properly, how well the valves are sealing (8 valves means 16 possibilities right there), if compression is equal on all 4 cylinders, how well the engine intenals are balanced (crank, rods and pistons), the type and how worn the cam is, the condition of the timing chain and tensioner, the condition and type of exhaust system, the weather, what you ate for breakfast..... oh, yeah... and the bearings in the distributor.

The way to improve the steadiness of the timing is to do all the little tuning things first - air filter and adjust the cab, check the gap and heat range of the spark plugs, check for air leaks in the intake system gaskets etc.

Forget about the short shifter - for most Minis it does not make much improvement and could cause premature geartrain wear from aggressive shifting. It is just a "Gofast" accessory like bonnet stripes and decals.  If you want just a short lever, then just cut it off and rethread it. When you find it is hard work (like the clutch pedal) you can weld the piece back on.
 It isn't like you have a 'magic wand' shifter!

I think MM means to cap the carb and the distributor not the tube Brian. I can understand the carb end but don't know why you would cap the dizzy end, i usually just stick my finger over the carb nipple.

I must be losing it. I couldn't figure out what the purpose would be of removing the vacuum line and capping it at both ends. Keep the exisiting vacuum trapped in the line so you don't have to refill it when you put it back on? "roll eyes"

Someone mentioned this earlier....I think this guy is putting us on.

When you remove the vacuum line to check the timing, make sure you cap it at bith ends. Cap at the distributor, and cap at the carb.