wow! so it is an A+ engine??  thats good to hear.  nothing better than that, even in school , if you get an A+ , youre the best.

i will post pic of the number as soon as i get back from riding

Those digits mean nothing Robster just sequential numbers.

You have a small bore A + engine with a 59 D4 Dizzy (distributor). Look at the engine number again and see what the first numbers read as should be 99 if it is an original tag, better still post a picture of it.

Don't waste a bunch of money on a distributor that you probably don't need, you have not gone through the basics of setting up the car with what you have and if you continue like this you will just be chasing your tail constantly plus people will not be as forthcoming with suggestions.

Just my 02c.

It's a 998 A+ lump.

I'm done.

Robster: probably not even close. Most serial numbers are sequential, with the last group of numbers telling where in the sequence it was built. For example my engine number is something like 12HA83AA99986 The last 5 digits are the sequential part. The engine befoe it on the production line got .....99985 and the one after it got .....99987.

Go to this list and find your engine number on it. (There are other lists I can't find right now....)

Engine identification

The lists do not show the sequence numbers.

Since your engine is a 1100 and it is paitned yellow, it might be in the group

8G156E       1100cc - Clubman, Special and Austin 1100 (ADO16)

RKM1150E   1100cc - Silver Seal unit for Clubman and Special

RKM1151E   1100cc - Silver Seal unit for Clubman and Special

BHM1042     1100cc - New and Gold Seal units for Clubman and Special, 1974-1980

BHM1229     1100cc - New and Gold Seal units for Clubman and Special, A+ Block, 1980 on

OR your engine might be something completely different. Yo have to decode the whole thing

um

I don't think those last two numbers are the year.
As I recall....will have to look back...your pictures showed an A series...not A+

shrimpy, thanks,,,you're pointing me to the right direction same as others, very much appreciated.

btw, the last 2 digits of the serial number stamped on the motor is "86".....yey,  im so happy, i think it is a 1986 engine, pretty new huh, it only has 40K miles on it.  

now what lucas distributor you think it has?    i saw the number on the dizzy it says 59D4

I didn't see that thread.  So maybe he's got a complete set of leads after all.  Still, I think I'm finished.  I think a set of Nology Wires and a plasma ignition system will definately solve the problem. 

I believe Robster said at one time that he is in Arizona, so maybe he can join the Arizona Mini Owners club (Arizona Mini Owners ) and find someone who can help sort it out in person.

Whoa! I hadn't seen that pic. The one I saved for reference has 4 greyish looking leads with cylindrical spark plug boots - this one in the "is it worht the price' thread.

//i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee471/coolsterr/806CE7B2-F9CA-48C8-B2C3-71811B05FD2D-10093-000008B10697F1F5_zpsa377c359.jpg

I sit corrected! Whatever the mushroom thingie is itshould be put back in the dark place it grew in. I'd get better results with a Gunson ColourTune.

Shrimps for NEWB PRESIDENT!!!!!

<my turn on the soap box>

You need to back up a bit and start by posting overall pictures of your car (inside, outside & engine compartment) so we can help you identify what body and engine you really own.  I don't think I've even seen you post the engine id tag (below #1 plug/above alternator) if it still exists.

Once we know for sure what you own I then agree with everybody; do the "Stage 0" full tune up first & go from there.  It may not be as cool as getting a shiny new distributor but it's likely you don't actually need a new distributor.  Your car will run just fine on all "stock" parts.  I'm stereotyping you a bit here by thinking you believe in the "gotta have it now" mentality since you've been asking many a time about buying stuff from local parts stores.  Yes you can find compatible parts at local parts houses if you know what to look for, but since you're new I'd strongly suggest you order everything from a proper Mini specialist (once you know for sure what you own).

You've mentioned several times in several threads about wanting a reliable driver.  The car can be such with all stock parts and even adding a fancy adjustable distributor at this point can introduce more variables.  You will be far better off getting the car running smoothly by doing the basics (stage 0) first.  Once you have a solid foundation (a reliable running car) then starting tinkering with performance parts.

I aso agree with everybody that you need to spend some time reading about the basics of the car.   The guys have posted excellent links and suggestions to get you started.  You may have read through some of them but it appears to us you've been spending your time researching new parts (distributors for example) instead.

Seemingly not doing your own research leads me to another stereotype that you'd rather be told something than learning it on your own.  It seems to be another generational difference.  Instead of doing your own research, drawing your own conclusions and then possibly asking for feedback about your conclusions, you start another thread so somebody can tell you what your specific problem is.  The sheer # of threads you've started since you have been here is an indicator of that.  It appears instead of searching old threads for simliar problems and seeing if their resolution(s) will correct your issue, you start a whole new thread hoping somebody can tell you what your specific problem is.  The icing on the cake is you then don't even follow the suggestions everybody has been giving you!  

Everybody is attempting to help with your Mini issue but at the same time is offering good advice that will serve you well for the remainder of your life.  You may not want the life advice but it comes as a package deal whether you like it or not.

I was refering to this grey lead with the big floppy mushroom top (obviously for a 'deep fitment/long reach' application) - who knows what sort of restistance this has or what it originated from.  I just know that it doesn't look the same as the other 3, which to my eyes appear to be small and blue.  Can't see the terminal that's sitting in the dizzy cap, so for all we know it's been cut off, the wire stripped back and taped together.

I fear that this is 'operation lost cause' and going no where, so I'm going to sit back and enjoy the ride.

Jeg: the fat grey thing is the spark plug boot - all 4 are fat & grey (like many of us here, but at least we have "spark").

Robser:

As stated spak plug wires wear out. The exteror may look fine but have micro cracks that leak spark. The core may be a carbon core that has separated somewhere and resiists spark. I think you said the previous owner made up this set of wires. Easy to do, but not so easy to do right - it involves inserting and crimping properly the brass end pieces. They have to make good (very good) contact with the core -  a weak contact will be resistance. That's 10 connections that may cause problems (in your case 2 ends for spark #1).

The cap may look "perfect" but have you used micrometers and dial guages to measure the distance from the central axis to each of teh 4 perimeter electrodes? Have you done some sort of conductivity test to ensure that the terminal actually conducts and that the cap itself doesn't have a micro crack or condiucting carbon trace that bleeds the spark away. I can't do most of those things and wouldn't waste my time anyway. Like changing oil, cars with points require a "tune up". When you change oil you change the filter even though it "looks OK". Same thing for points, condenser, rotor AND cap.

every indication is that you simply need a set of wires, they wear out and yours have shown you they are ready to replace

don't buy a new distributor because that WON'T HELP YOU, buy a set of wires and you will be amazed

We are trying to help you but you don't seem to be listening,

Norm

thanks jeg,,, the engine has 40K+miles  on the odo, 

i'm just gonna buy those $500+ worth of distributor kits out there, anyway life is short, what's 500 bucks right?, i just wanna know how it feels to ride a mini.  and cruise along Big Sur,just like what that one member here did couple of weeks ago., my mini is better because it has a sunroof,,lol

Coils get hot when the car is running at idle.

Again, I'd ditch that mis-matched plug wire and get some proper ones.  Then I'd make sure everything is adjusted properly.  Check the spark plugs - I'd bet ithey're either quite carboned up from idling so much or maybe it's running too lean?  Hard for me to tell from here, other than it sounds fairly good when it's running.  Make sure you've got oil in the carb dashpot (your Haynes manual will tell you how to fill it, don't just pour it in).

spark plugs are tight.

now when the engine is hesitating, i try to jiggle the #1 spark plug WIRE, then i can hear the engine run better, i release my hand on the wire then engine starts to hesitate, i interchange wires buy still the no.1 terminal is hesitating, the gray wire is made in USA. the other 4 blue wires are made in the Mainland.

then if you look at the cap it perfect, BUT one thing for sure the ignition coil is overheating. im sure about it because i always put my hand on top of it and i cant bear holding it even for 3 secs

here , the engine is running, started fine, revs fine at first...then rev it 3-4 times then started to hesitate rev it again then died, thats when the #1 terminal started to loose connection.

watch   //youtu.be/JEAfHbR4cnM

Ok, I just noticed something - what's that fat grey thing hanging on #1 spark plug?  Get all the plug wires the same, in fact, I recommend getting some decent mini plug wires, all the same length etc... (hint:  Zippypinhead's guidance:  A-series engine = Morris Minor, Austin Healey Sprite, MG Midget etc., so if Napa has some for a '74 Midget, there's a good bet they'll work)  You wouldn't run different types of spark plugs at the same time, would you?

Work logically. 

Another thing - do you have a ground strap from the engine to the bulkhead?  It's usually mounted on the 'dogbone' stabilizer bar at #4 end of engine rearwards toward the bulkhead and attached at both ends by the stabilizer bolts.

The distributor looks fine to me - cap looks like new, rotor looks like new, dizzy shaft doesn't seem to have excessive play.  So, correctly adjust the gap on the contact breaker points, set the timing and if it's still wonky, check the carb jet as suggested. 

Work systematically in your diagnostics; analyze the symptoms and work with one system at a time.  Read, read and read. 

Do you have a Haynes manual?  Have you begun to read the articles pages found on this site?  Have you used this site's search function to search the message board to find an older message thread that can give you clues as to how the systems work and help answer your queries?

What the heck is "a jetmotors high performance ignition system set" - where did this come from????  Why do you need this??? 

I'm 99.99% certain that the solution to your problem is something that will surprise you as to how simple it is once you find it. 

It'll be a "Homer Simpson Moment"  "Doh!"

I feel like on the one hand you're trying to just wind us up, and on the other hand you're genuinely seeking help.  So, my advice to you - be happy with the hardware that you've got already, get it running with what you've got and later on down the road you can start throwing money at things you don't need until you're ready for them.  When that time comes, go slow - Stage 1 kit etc...  Work systematically and analyze why, what, where and how...  Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow (repeat).

Sigh....
The lump that powers your Mini is some variation of a BMC/British Leyland/Rover "A-series" motor. 
They used the same basic block for both transverse front wheel drive (Mini, Metro) or in-line rear wheel drive. (Midget, Sprite, Morris Minor, and god knows what else)
The engines were built with displacements anywhere from 748cc to 1275cc. (From memory) Modifications can result in a bit larger displacement.
In short, yes, there will be a lot of part interchangablitly but you do have to know what goes where.

Have you read any of the suggested articles? There's 55 years worth of information to figure out. If that's too difficult, dump the thing now while it's still running.