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 Posted: Oct 16, 2014 01:16PM
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US

The Goodridge braided hose may in fact be ok... the caliper end seals with a copper washer, so ignore the tapered seat end of the hose.... The thread should be correct, but the hose end does not 'seat' in the caliper.   This is one of the quirks of the mini... you have to screw the hose into the caliper, or if the hose is already installed to the sub-frame, you have to 'screw' the caliper onto the hose!

 Posted: Oct 15, 2014 10:39AM
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I found the problem!

We removed the front pads and pushed the caliper pistons back into the caliper, replaced the pads and then pushed them forward towards the pads. For some reason, this eliminated the sponby pedal.

Thanks for your help.

 Posted: Oct 15, 2014 07:15AM
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US

It has happened to me a number ftimes and I just went through it again. As CA2SBL1275 says, the hoses go bad and you can't bleed the brakes.

 Posted: Oct 15, 2014 12:01AM
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"I have replaced the rear wheel cylinders, which were 3/4" units with 5/8" cylinders...........

Logic tells me that using a smaller diameter pistoned cylinder should result in less fluid being needed to move it."

 

Try Physics 101 before faulty logic....

Also, the "soft" pedal that subsequently pumps up means you have air in the system...removing it may solve your problem.

..and.. 62s didn't have calipers... so if you are looking for a Goodridge listing for a 62 you have a problem.  If you can identlfy the original source/type of caliper involved you may have more luck....

Cheers, Ian 

 Posted: Oct 14, 2014 03:58PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielsg

Hello all,

I am rebuilding the brake asystem of my 1962 Morris Super Deluxe and am having trouble achieving proper brake pressure.

I have replaced the rear wheel cylinders, which were 3/4" units with 5/8" cylinders. The rest of the system is the same.

Logic tells me that using a smaller diameter pistoned cylinder should result in less fluid being needed to move it.

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

Thank you all for assistance. I have tried most ofyour suggestions with the exception of replacing the rear pressure limiter.  Now the brake pedal is very soft (goes to the floor) on first application and then firms up on the second application but is still not firm enough. I have a set of Goodridge brake lines for the front brakes, but they will not work with the front brake calipers. The male thread of the line going into the caliper is tapered and is too long. I can not find a Goodridge line that is designed for the calipers on the car.

Thanks again for your input.

 

 

 Posted: Oct 14, 2014 02:51PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielsg

Hello all,

I am rebuilding the brake asystem of my 1962 Morris Super Deluxe and am having trouble achieving proper brake pressure.

I have replaced the rear wheel cylinders, which were 3/4" units with 5/8" cylinders. The rest of the system is the same.

Logic tells me that using a smaller diameter pistoned cylinder should result in less fluid being needed to move it.

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

 Posted: Oct 9, 2014 09:26PM
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Danielsg:

Have the rubber brake hoses ever been replaced on your car?

As hoses age, they sometimes come apart on the inside. This cannot be seen from the outside.  

The hose pieces can be pushed into a wheel cylander and clog the inlet or enough or the hose lining can come loose to block fluid flow or pressure.

This can keep you from bleeding your brakes. This can also mimic a closed pressure regulator on the rear.

The easiest way to check a hose is to disconnect the end farthest from the master cylander and then press on the pedal enough to see fluid come out of the end. 

If you have owned your '62 for anywhere near the 52 years since it was made, you should consider replacing the hoses.

If your pressure regulator has never been replaced, you could consider that also.

Replacement OEM type pressure regulators are smetimes hard too find, but they are available.

The later inertia type pressure regulator is not a direct replacement.

If there is any original rubber brake parts remaining on your car, using modern brake fluids can cause trouble.

The original rubber brake parts were made of natural rubber. Water moisture in the brake system can cause the natural rubber brake parts to dissolve and metal parts to rust.

Add this to the age problem.

I have never learned when the rubber parts installed at the factory were changed to synthetic rubber, so I use Castrol LMA brake fluid. LMA  means "low moisture absorbing".

The humidity in the air can be absorbed into brake fluid to cause trouble, just from opening the filler cap on the master cylander.

If you decide to replace the rubber hoses, do not forget the hose on the clutch slave cylander.

Have fun,

Russ   

 

 Posted: Oct 9, 2014 06:06PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
2. Pump the brake pedal and when the person  workingthe bleed screw tells you that the bleed screw is open, lift you foot slightly to release a little of the fluid pressure which should allow the limiting valve to open and you can then push the pedal to the floor lightly.

 

I have heard that pushing the pedal to floor (at any speed or pressure) may sometimes cause the master cylinder to ruin the seals because the piston goes deep where it has not been before, that is, the roughness of the old, corroded parts chews up the seals.

Case in point, I had this happen on another car (not a mini) and sure enough after bleeding with the pedal to the floor, the master cylinder promptly failed in a few days. Went to the floor when I needed to brake, oops. As a result , I have been a believer in the rule.

 Posted: Oct 9, 2014 04:30PM
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If it is air in the system i find it helps to get the rear end as high as possible when bleeding the rears, also you may need to bleed the system at every connection front to rear starting nearest the master cylinder.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 9, 2014 03:01PM
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If you "reconsider your brake bleeding practices", I would do either of the following:

1. Do not pump the brake pedal three times and hold it down.  The rear brake circuit has a pressure limiting valve in-line that will close off and prevent fluid from actuating the rear brake shoes.  When the person working the bleed screw tells you that it is open, lightly press the brake pedal to the floor.

2. Pump the brake pedal and when the person  workingthe bleed screw tells you that the bleed screw is open, lift you foot slightly to release a little of the fluid pressure which should allow the limiting valve to open and you can then push the pedal to the floor lightly.

The rest of the process is the same.  I have had good results using both approaches.

'72 Morris Mini - 1310cc, K1100 head conversion

 

 

 

 Posted: Oct 9, 2014 02:27PM
mur
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There are a bunch of small things that come about when bleeding mini brakes. Do a search for past threads. Some things to keep in mind are that the rear pressure limiter will close off, so bleeding the rear by pumping the pedal hard only results in that limiter valve closing. Another difficulty is having the shoes adjusted properly. Any maladjustment results in a soft pedal. Peruse the old threads, check carefully for leaks at crush washers, reconsider your brake bleeding practices, and good luck; we're all counting on you.

 Posted: Oct 9, 2014 01:07PM
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Hello all,

I am rebuilding the brake asystem of my 1962 Morris Super Deluxe and am having trouble achieving proper brake pressure.

I have replaced the rear wheel cylinders, which were 3/4" units with 5/8" cylinders. The rest of the system is the same.

Logic tells me that using a smaller diameter pistoned cylinder should result in less fluid being needed to move it.

Thanks for your suggestions.