Strangely fried fuse
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Oct 19, 2014 05:10AM | CooperTune | |
Oct 18, 2014 06:48PM | ssuperflyoldguy | |
Oct 16, 2014 12:17PM | Cup Cake | |
Oct 16, 2014 10:46AM | Air2air | |
Oct 16, 2014 10:13AM | Jemal | |
Oct 16, 2014 09:30AM | Willie_B | |
Oct 16, 2014 09:11AM | Air2air | Edited: Oct 16, 2014 09:18AM |
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Not sure it applies, but I have a pair of 55 watt lamps in my grille. I converted the brake check switch to a fog lamp switch and mounted a relay near the master cyls where the wire went anyway. I pulled power from the solenoid and placed a inline fuse ( 10 amps ) under the bonnet. Having built from a bare shell I decided to run #10 stranded copper to all electrical loads. I soldered all connectors and grounded to engine and battery in boot. I have blown one 10 amp fuse in the 13 years. It did not look like your even then. Steve (CTR)
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Weathered, dirty, poor connections cause resistance that causes heat.
Poor connections = could be loose slip connectors, the plug end of that fuse/breaker may be loose inside of connector. You try tightening up adding a bit of solder on the blade. In my experience, issues like this are usually ground related: ie, is your lamp housing properly grounded or does the bulb have a dedicated ground that ties back into the main chassis? Meaning that maybe the bumper is not quite properly tied into the car grounding-wise? Could be a fray in a wire causing the load to
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110w equates to around 10 amps.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
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Yeah I agree Willie, it looks terrible but it's more from the heat than dirt, I keep it spotless.
Jemal yeah I should bump it down to a 20A if not smaller when finding the short - but I'm wondering if it's a short or just the 110W draw from the lights that is slowly cooking it but not badly enough to blow it.
I should probably tap off the battery terminal for these guys then instead of going thru my aux fuse box.
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Now, I've seen the car... There isn't much weathered or dirty about it! Yes, one would think that it would blow before melting. How big a wire? That's a huge fuse, so I'd want to use about a 10 gauge copper wire...
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Weathered, dirty, poor connections cause resistance that causes heat.
"How can anything bigger be mini?"
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This is a 30A that did not blow, it's on my Cibie Oscar driving lights with 55W bulbs. This is the feed to the relays, each light has its own. Fried the wire too. It's a year-old setup that was working fine up till now.
I'll track down the cause, just wondering if anybody has seen a blade fuse melt, yet not blow...?