Another heater valve blew!!
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nobody worries about this when they put an oil cooler out front, and that liquid's temperature is even higher, therefore if enough square inches/footage of heat exchanger perhaps imparting even more btu to the air flowing over the engine and ultimately out through the main radiator to the wheel well
still have net increase in overall heat dissipation
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Seriously Jemal? You ae heating the air you are then blowing through the radiator.
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Here's how I made an aux rad fit on my Hot-rod Moke project... a small ball valve right on the heater tap to shut it off in winter. But of course like most Mokes, there is no heater to begin with. This cooled the temps right down with our very high performance engine for summer driving.
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Couldn't agree more Jemal about some Minis overheating - the heater is a radiator and will dissipate heat anytime the flow is moving and air is passing through the core...this can help in hot weather (and help cook the occupants - did this before getting smart).
In cool to cold weather the heater will be on and doing its job. But for the super hardy, not turning the heater on in coldish weather will see coolant (including from the back of the head) flow into the rad without the Mini overheating in almost all cases.
I found that the issues arose in hot weather and addressed it by adding an auxillary rad plumbed from the heater take-off and back into the lower rad hose. My addition was borrowed at Mid-Ohio to go onto a former Mini Miglia that had been experiencing some overheating. The Mini racer finished the Can-Am Challenge without overheating and I popped the aux. rad back in the Mini Van for the return trip across the USA (but I didn't get the nice blue silicon hoses).
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Be careful about running JUST the elbow! All Minis that use the lower rad hose with the heater 'return' line feed that hot coolant right back into the suction from the water pump. This bypasses the rad completely and has led to some mysterious overheating problems, particularly when the heater core is bypassed and the hottest corner of the head feeds right back into the water pump!
Careful also if re-plumbing back up to the thermostat housing or top of the rad. Think about which side of the water pump has 'pressure' vs 'suction'. If you plumb the return from the heater to an area of similar 'pressure' as the take of on the head, why would coolant flow at all... I've seen some beautiful engine compartments but wonder about some of the plumbing!
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I replaced the original copper pipe elbow (plate corroded/leaking) on the OZ Mini Van with an anodized Aluminum elbow (and removed the extra rad since no extra ambient heat here). Switched to heat, turned on the fan and Wifey was happy on the run to from the Mini club meeting last night.
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Not to get picky but that looks more like an elbow than any kind of valve. Did you consider turning the out side, thread it and machine a cap to allow new o ring replacement. Mine is leaking around the tiny plunger shaft. I like pull for heat enough to allow a little leak. I think the maker is a US company that still makes heater valves just not that one. Steve (CTR)
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I've had two of these worthless reproductions fail. Grrrr.
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what happens if you run the elbow fitting jemal said with out the valve. I take it you would have coolaant running thru the heater core at all time and unless you turn on the fan, it would not affect you.my heater valve leaks bad when pulled open
in winter, when I pull on the heater control knob and hot coolant flows thru the core, I turn the fan on for only the first minute. After that, there is plenty of heat in the passenger compartment just from convection of air through the hot core ( without the fan) . This works fine here when it is 30F, I suppose Canucks might need the fan.
So if I had hot coolant flowing all of the time, I would get hot even if I did not want it ( like summer). There is plenty of heat transferred to the passenger areas without the fan.
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Alex, send one over I have a guy who has pulled the end out of two in sight of the shop. An elbow fitting and the late model floating valve which is pull for heat is my next move. I currenlty have a very old pull to heat looks just like OE that goes from car to car with me. It leaks a little. Steve (CTR)
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One of the biggest suppliers is aware of the situation, and I am currently testing a new heater tap made with new tooling to the original design for them to see if I can get it to fail.
The Italian Job ought to give a decent indication of the quality.
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what happens if you run the elbow fitting jemal said with out the valve. I take it you would have coolaant running thru the heater core at all time and unless you turn on the fan, it would not affect you.my heater valve leaks bad when pulled open
I have a 1360 in my 1970 wasaMatic Mini, still with the Oz fresh air underhood heater. These have no water tap, temp control is by air mixing. Off>cool>warm>hot.
It works fine, and in summer it acts as an aux rad. No overheating, ever....
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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what happens if you run the elbow fitting jemal said with out the valve. I take it you would have coolaant running thru the heater core at all time and unless you turn on the fan, it would not affect you.my heater valve leaks bad when pulled open
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I have not used that valve and/or head adapter but I like your idea. It sure looks like your solution would work.
Another alternative would be to make a plate to bolt to the head and tap the plate to use the heater valve from a TR6. The Summit part and heater take-off from our host would be less work though.
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What about one of these in-line valves from Summit racing? Anyone try one in conjuction with the 90 degree listed above?
Jerry
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Unfortunately, these are the latest poor quality reproductions that are failing! We have discontinued the 'angled' valve that was the 1275 version, and unfortunately even the small bore type need to be checked very closely.
I use a cast elbow on my own engine, and plumbed a hardware store 1/2" ball valve like you'd find as a water supply shut-off for your shower under the dash at the little T7 heater in my Mark 1. Here's the elbow:
//www.minimania.com/part/HOT3032-S/Heater-Take-Off-Stub-1-2-Angled---Retrosport-Billet-Aluminum
A less exotic one for bigger 5/8" hose:
//www.minimania.com/part/12G2534/Heater-Hose-Take-Off-On-Head-0625
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It is not exactly this part but the one that has the curved rod. Anyway it blew the snap ring and all the valve parts towards the front of the car and emptied the radiator in about 8 sec. Good news is that I was only 1.5 miles from my house. The engine had not warmed up yet, so I had this brilliant thought of driving back home since it was downhill. But then the engine quit. I assume the electrical bits got wet. Is it usually the distributor that stops when it gets wet? I dried off the outside and under the cap was dry still ,but it would not start back up. Any ideas ???
I wiped off the coolant and am air drying it with a fan for a few hours.
Jerry
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