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 Posted: Nov 3, 2014 02:04PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddad

This good. 

//mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10799

If Rich is selling it I am sure it will be good material.

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 3, 2014 11:21AM
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This good.

 

//mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10799

 Posted: Nov 3, 2014 09:41AM
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I should not have over reacted, I apologize too.

A spring inside would definitely prevent vacuum collapse and be a handy work around!

Norm

 Posted: Nov 3, 2014 05:03AM
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Sorry Norm.  I was not trying to cloud the issue.  My last post was intended to be more general guidance regarding material selection.  lease note I was not suggesting using fuel hose without the support spring inside.  Sometimes you just have to make due with what is available.

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 3, 2014 02:47AM
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guys, he has already said, twice, that he used fuel line, NOT heater hose

However, fuel line, while resistant to fuel, and to some extent, oil, is not necessarily resistant to vacuum.

Vacuum hose (as Dr Mini has stated) is made of a harder material that resists collapsing. At the auto parts store there will be a selection of each type, and trying a length of that might solve your problem.

Norm

 Posted: Nov 2, 2014 08:22AM
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Kevin is right that heater hose material is typically "different".  Heater hose is often made from EPDM rubber while fuel and vacuum hoses are typically Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber.  EPDM is not for use with petroleum products and typically swells and softens from petroleum exposure while Buna-N does not.   This is particularly concerning on pressurized lines.  However, if you fit the spring to the inside of an EPDM hose and use it for vacuum the spring will prevent the hose from collapsing and it will work indefinitely.  Given the choice, use fuel hose or proper vacuum hose if it is available from the parts store in the correct size.  The internal spring is still desirable when you use fuel hose for vacuum and need to bend it to certain shapes.

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 2, 2014 07:17AM
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I was using fuel hose so my comment was that it should have lasted longer. I have thought about this and wonder if the hose is getting pinched by the hood closure and this caused it to fail. A little examination with a flashlight will tell!

Jerry

 Posted: Nov 1, 2014 11:47PM
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If you used proper vacuum servo hose it should not do this. But heater hose won't cut it, it is not fuel resistant.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Nov 1, 2014 03:02PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchealey
So I am tuning my carbs, and slowly I change from a slightly rich to very lean on my A/F meter. This occured over a period of two days of tweaking. I kept thinking, I turned too many flats on the carb and have to go back. But yesterday and today, it would barely start. The choke did nothing, so I check all the linkage. I finally decided that there was an airleak somewhere and started looking. A new rubber line from the manifold to the servo cracked and today fell apart. I had a 1/2 inch leak directly into the manifold. The carbs had no chance to adjust. Bad rubber in only 6 months. At least I can fix it today. We have our Halloween rally in the club tomorrow. Funniest thing seeing a bunch of people in costumes out driving in British cars during the middle of the day. Jerry

The late model Mini's with Servo's used a hard plastic neoprene like hose similar to what is used for ice make water lines but larger of course, they never collapse.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 1, 2014 10:51AM
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CA

+1 for using proper fuel rated rubber hoses. They should have printing along one side saying so. They also usually have thicker walls containing cloth reinforcement, so splitting is pretty near impossible. Doug's spring trick will work to prevent collapse at a sharp bend (like shop vac hose) on thin-walled hose, though I wonder if it would be necessary if the heavier walled hose is routed to eliminate any sharp turns. 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Nov 1, 2014 10:34AM
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Jerry, if the hose ID is something common, use a length of similar sized fuel or heater hose.  To prevent the hose from collapsing under vacuum, take a piece to the hardware store and find a long spring (like for a screen door closer) that will just fit inside.  ull the spring's coils apart to lengthen it if necessary and slip it inside the hose prior to clamping it in place.  The spring will prevent the non-vacuum hose from collapsling.  Heater/fuel hoses generally hold up well in engine compartments.

Doug L.
 Posted: Oct 31, 2014 10:36AM
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Fumes will destroy ordinary rubber, as you found out.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Oct 31, 2014 09:08AM
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So I am tuning my carbs, and slowly I change from a slightly rich to very lean on my A/F meter. This occured over a period of two days of tweaking. I kept thinking, I turned too many flats on the carb and have to go back. But yesterday and today, it would barely start. The choke did nothing, so I check all the linkage. I finally decided that there was an airleak somewhere and started looking. A new rubber line from the manifold to the servo cracked and today fell apart. I had a 1/2 inch leak directly into the manifold. The carbs had no chance to adjust.

Bad rubber in only 6 months.

At least I can fix it today. We have our Halloween rally in the club tomorrow. Funniest thing seeing a bunch of people in costumes out driving in British cars during the middle of the day.

Jerry