decided to build a aluminum moke  on steriods  from scratch     its a big project but   as there are only one panel with a bend its all stright   i will use flush rivets  and make it look  sort of airplane   type  shiny aluminum with rivets ,

frame will be  tig welded aluminum , front suspension will be mini   but coil over shocks instead of the rubber donuts, about 1 ft wider  and 3 ft longer  to get the batteries and  motor in  trying to decide motor direct drive to the diff  or a trani to diff , right now i drive around in third   so with a bigger motor  and more torgue  and as big a rear end ratio i can get  should be good.

  one problem is the sprite diff is to narrow,  so may look at a  light weight one out of the junk yard . 

I looked again for the guy in italy. gianluca at GP moke.. seems if he still doing them. he is hiding under a rock..

now for the electrical part   

motor is a hpevs   ac75   180 ft torque   at 92 hp   at 144 volts , its a AC motor and has regeneration  ie  tap brakes and  get energy back into teh batteries,    

controler   Curtus    1239-8501   144 volt ac  at 500 amps.  

batteries  as i said  will be  out of a new wrecked chevy volt   8 sets of 48 volt 40ahr batteries   will wire in 3 to a string of 144 volts  and  15 batteries  so  34 kw  total .   about the  same as one gallon of gas in energy  4/0 welding wires to the controler  which has a saftey contactor and fuses.  each bank of three series batteries has a 200 amp fuse 

for control a Emeter tells you state of charge and percentage left battery voltage and current ,   to drive the 12 volt normal car battery  we have a 144v to12 volt charger  at 40 amps,  

throttle is a 5 k pot which is in a box with pedal ,quite nice   and the regen is the same and rests on the back of the brake pedal  with a bit of slack ,  

the  charger is unknown yet   as the one on my roadster is to small   only 2 kw  and would be to slow

charging 34 kw batteries .  

rebatteries   many use a BMS  batery managemnet system which shunts off each battery as its voltage hits a set point

idont use them for a few resons   i like KISS  and the more worries and more complications the  worse everything gets

also there have been quite a few fires in the  bms system,  if the mosfet shorts like they do ,you have a big fire. if you run your batteries not quite to 97 percent and dont run them  down below 20 percent you realy dont need the  pile of extra electronincs expense or trouble of a BMS .   

looking for a set of  big brake mini front end  suspension no drive shafts   for   13inch wheels  dont need sub frame or shocks  also need 13 inch  wheels 

 I know Dr Paul posted the Ant link as he's goading me into buying it, so as you are OMO member I have a feeling we probably know each other, though I'm struggling to put a face to the name.

Sounds like a fun build. I re built a Wrangler and left it at the beach and it was hell keeping up with the constant sea air rusting everything. There was a Moke that was widened in Australia with big wheels and it looked like a factory build when finished. Keep us updated.

hi malsal   yes looked at that, want it a bit bigger, here in the bahamas  they drive like they are nuts ,so I want some protection.   So at this point it looks like a start from scratch job,  make 4 X's on the floor and build up .  the moke will be  30 inches longer  to fit the motor and batteries , about 10 inches wider and  8 inch higher  and a lot stronger,  i will design crush zones  front back and the sides will be typical racing type cage , but the frame will be all aluminum.   steel although strong rusts down here  i live  right at the ocean.

the body will be  aircraft flush rivited  6061 .065 alum. should be fun to build, will use a sprite rear end   and mini  front end  but  cut off the cv joint   with 13 inch wheels ,  sort of a buggered  moke,   rear wheel drive  and bigger , but will use the basic  moke shape which i like the looks of , they are   fun to drive around in. especialy if they are fast.  

Good project. You could possibly buy an AMC Cub frame (they are making them again in the UK) and as it is made from steel powder coat it and cover it with aluminum panels. The Cub is the closest copy to a Moke and stronger.

 range is now not as big a problem , with the new  volt batteries im getting 120 plus miles  out of only 17kw  so thats not bad milage   especialy when the island you live on is 5 miles by 60 miles   the moke will have twice the batteries   looking at 200 plus miles per  12 hr  day and night charge off my big solar  system and batteries .    still thinking of a aluminum frame and alum body   rivited  and  clear coated to look shiny .    

ok what the hell are you talking about electrocution    duuuuuuu     the batteries are all isolated   do you drive you mini in the wet  yet it has 30,000 volts at the spark plugs .   tell you what   dont post  it only make you look bad 

Body flexing is good as the fiberglass is pretty thick with box steel bracing and a beam type axle set up with Mini arms, but with that being said i do get some "feedback" through the column on occasional bumps similar to an older convertible. As there is no lower rail the original column was mounted to the pedal box and was flexing badly so i replaced that and made the mounting more secure and it is 100% better now but not 100% if that makes sense. The next step would be to build a lower rail and attach the column to that. The steel one i just looked at had a lower rail welded in place. The front can be converted to round headlights and there are a couple on the web that have been done.

A local guy near me did an electric porsche 914, sardine can. It's wicked fast but limited in milage as most are.

Zippy and malsal, I wasn't familiar with the Jimini, rather cool, although I prefer the looks of the round headlamps of the Moke.

malsal, how is the body stiffness, any flexing ?

Thanks for sharing.

Tis a good day when you learn something, wish I had more of those !

They do Zip well at least their website is up and the phone is still connected. I have one and the quality of the shell is very good mine is 24 years old with no stress cracks and weighs 1140 lbs. Actually just came across and early one in steel 15 miles from me that i am going to look at today, cheap alternative to a Moke and as much fun.

fiberglass moke would be nice.  

electric mokes should be ridden mostly in dry places like arizona, 

imagine this , a roof-less moke that is run by electricity and you live in Seattle where it rains 24hrs a day, sounds fun huh?

but overall i like the fiberglass idea.

electrocution

Bob,

Not exactly a Moke.... Don't know if they still make these:
//www.jimini.co.uk/kitcar/

//maximummini.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/building-brand-new-jimini.html

Several others shown on the maximummini site....

I'm going to throw another one into the mix. Porsche developed the first functional hybrid car. Ohh, about 112 years ago. 

ok a start ,  my 1300 lb roadster  has a set of chevy volt batteries i got outof a new wrecked junkyard car  2000,   17kw   re wired for 96 volts, i bought runs about 280 lb  , the motor  is a 3 phase AC from  hvps  model 31  , not a big motor   on 72 volts only 20 some hp.   controler is a curtus    motor and controler used  off ebay   2000.00    the batteries are  very small  21 by 30 by 10 inches    i dont use a bms  as i dont belive i n them ,  96 to 12 volt charger and a small car battery for radio lights and gauges. wipers.   150.00      the main charger   2000 w  was  750.00  runs either 240 or 120 ( 1000 w )      easy install    took 5 days to convert .     specs so far  range running relitivily hard ( i have a heavy right foot   is 100 to120 miles with regen , which is good range .  speed 85 mph    0 to 6 under 6 sec  .     the moke  or pickup will have two battery packs for 200 milage range  but unbelivable speed    , expect car will cost 20k when done  , either i will build outof aluminum frame as well   a bit wider and taller , and longer sort of a moke on steriods ,    expect 0 to 60 in3 sec   top speed 120 mph    so very good roll cage,   will have mini  suspension arms and coil over up front   with  direct rear drive to sprite rear end.   no trani  will run motor right to diff/  

ok ask questions   ps    electronic eng worked for ford , chrysler and daimler on electric cars 

I'm more intrigued than interested at this point.  But I'd love to be able to reference a blog for the build to get an idea on what is involved.  I've got a Mini I was planning on selling in the coming months that I could use.  Hmmm.....

On further thought, I live just a few miles from my work and would drive the heck out of an electric Mini.

Super interested, I have a wagon waiting in the wings thet would be a perfect candidate...

I do too