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 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 07:54AM
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GB
Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

ok im going to lay it low this time, i will minimize my comments and unsolicited advice, so as to avoid being accused of disrupting a nice thread. 

i will only limit myself in postin questions which i think this forum can answer/ only questions about my Mini nothing else.

Now as for these impostors like rooster/ roloster etc, i have nothing to do with them, hack and wack them if you want. just dont connect them and their nasty comments to me and my name.

remember i am here for my mini solutions not to socialize.

i will continue to support MM and its business, and will advertise them by word of mouth on every mini car show i go.

i rest my case, no more hanky panky messages from me. only pure mini questions.

 When judging someone on the quality of their word, the above quote from another thread shows you to be a liar and incapable of doing what you say you will.

 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 03:43AM
 Edited:  Nov 21, 2014 03:44AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8port

I've done a bunch of researching mainly on the 3m product. On unibodies it's not recommended for sills and floors. On the roof section posted above it is recommended and on a mini I consider that structural. I think some of the recommendations for usage may be lack of knowledge of the insurance companies rather than the products ability, unless body flexure is a problem. Since many new production cars( ie. volkswagon) are bonding much of their unibodies it may yet show strength in structural areas. I'm considering using bonding along with blind head steel pop rivets in areas that can't be properly clamped, to do a boot floor and other areas where as I feel it could be used. Advantages over welds include lack of panel warpage, the entire seam is closed and water tight and sealed at the same time, in theory it takes less time and allows for adjustment prior to setting, I like the concept but like all things that sound too good to be true.

 

 

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 09:42PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

available at home depot...

 

 

 

 

 

3M is obsolete

That is not structural adhesive.

Go play with your rubber chicken, or if naughty choke it. The adults are talking.


Talking about a current body shop technique of bonding body panels together. It's been proven to be stronger than welding.

If you were to redo your wooden dash, I might use the product you posted. But even for that applicaction there are better products than than. 

 

 

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 08:47PM
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available at home depot...

 

 

 

 

 

3M is obsolete

 

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 05:41PM
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I've done a bunch of researching mainly on the 3m product. On unibodies it's not recommended for sills and floors. On the roof section posted above it is recommended and on a mini I consider that structural. I think some of the recommendations for usage may be lack of knowledge of the insurance companies rather than the products ability, unless body flexure is a problem. Since many new production cars( ie. volkswagon) are bonding much of their unibodies it may yet show strength in structural areas. I'm considering using bonding along with blind head steel pop rivets in areas that can't be properly clamped, to do a boot floor and other areas where as I feel it could be used. Advantages over welds include lack of panel warpage, the entire seam is closed and water tight and sealed at the same time, in theory it takes less time and allows for adjustment prior to setting, I like the concept but like all things that sound too good to be true.

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 04:30PM
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CA

Sean....what product was that?  I'd like to look it up, I may have a need for it for another project

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 03:45PM
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CA

We used it to bond the new roof onto the lemons car, and I have used it to bond alloy skins to a set of mk4 doors.

The roof has held tight at speeds well over 100mph.

For the alloy doors, you can set the "twist" that the door needs to fit perfectly in the door opening, when it is right, clamp until the panel bond sets and the door retains the correct shape.

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 12:21PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8port

Anyone tried using this on your restoration/repair? Results/comments.

You do realize you've opened Pandora's box. I used 3M panel bond on the inside of the rear bin to cover the inside of a hole which we welded on a piece on the outside, non structural repair purely for appearance. I also bonded a piece to the inner fender near the "A" panel similar application non structural so I didn't need to weld close to the exterior paint it's been on for nearly a year and shows no signs of coming off/cracking/rust or otherwise. I did a test with 2 pieces of 22G sheet metal bonded together with it, I needed a cold chisel to separate the pieces, it's really strong stuff. The argument for it is modern cars use it but mini's weren't designed to use it.....

 

 

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 11:51AM
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GB

Sikkaflex or Tiger Seal sticks like snot on a baby's lip, and will glue doorskins on very nicely.

Not sure I'd use it in a properly structural manner though.

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 11:46AM
 Edited:  Nov 20, 2014 03:27PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8port

Anyone tried using this on your restoration/repair? Results/comments.

Was there a brand you're asking about (did you forget the link ?)

The shop uses 3M trim spray adhesive, works well.

Or are you talking about structural adhesive used in bonding body panels ?

"What chew talkin bout Willis !?!"

 Posted: Nov 20, 2014 11:36AM
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Anyone tried using this on your restoration/repair? Results/comments.