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 Posted: Nov 27, 2014 02:44PM
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GB

Dave, I've called Custard on a couple of other threads and he's gone instantly quiet.

I'm starting to smell something odd about Mr Robster, and it isn't just Troll...

 Posted: Nov 27, 2014 11:38AM
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Norm,

I remember back 21 odd years ago when I was really getting into minis, and someone told me to get this book Vizard had written about modifying minis. So I did.

Then I wanted to put a metro turbo engine in a mini, and someone else told me about the big yellow Aseries bible being a great rescource as it had a WHOLE CHAPTER on forced induction, with a lot dedicated JUST to the metro turbo. I purchased the book (it was a whole days earnings back then in my yoof, but I still purchased it  and still have it - and still reference it).

When I started my career, I learnt one of the best books to purchase was machinery's handbook. Wow, a huge amount of money, but I did purchase it and still use it.

Just a few months ago, I found out about the Central Steel & Wire handbook,,, What on earth??? How have I managed without this most useful of rescource material before now??? Damn if I didn't open up the eBay app on my cell phone and purchase a used copy for less than $15 delivered, not less than two minutes later...

And  so on and so on....

It is easy to purchase a manual, and gain the skills via the written word (and great images per haynes) to do many different jobs, and perhaps ask questions before starting, (or mid-way through) on something that doesn't make any sense? I know this forum doesn't have a good "search engine" but how many times have you seen someone post a question on other forums, and the first respose is "do a search", becuase the question has been asked dozens of times before, and explained in great detail dozens of times before.

Robster himself has stated he has personally experienced this behaviour on other forums... In my years, I've never seen someone who refuses to take the most basic of basic advice (buy a haynes) and then acts like a victim...

Once our Robster friend gets a haynes, I'm all up for occasionally answering his posts as he will then be a fully fledged member of our community (owner of a mini and owner of a haynes manual  both go hand in hand for anyone who works on their own mini). Heck, I'll even forgive him for posting a lot of tripe like suggesting "straight downtube, a larger intercooler, and an RMW dyno tune" is what one of our other frinds needs to do to make his mini (note, not MINI) faster... Self-Help, starts with the Blue Book....

 

It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini. 

 Posted: Nov 27, 2014 05:36AM
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come on guys, some of you are just being mean

He has made a real effort to fit in better here and I think we all owe it, not just to him but also to all of the other people who come here for help and who will see this thread, and will judge us by the tone we use, to give him the benefit of a doubt and be friendly and helpful and not pounce on him if you think he needs some more explanation or correction.

Frankly, I just read this thread from the beginning, and I am familiar with these cars, and I can see how an inexperienced person would get very mixed up with all of the different attitudes, and mixed up advice being given (mainly by people saying irreverent things trying to be funny but which will mix up someone who can't tell if the poster is serious or just being a smart aleck).

We have all needed help before, and we have all made mistakes before. Please try and do better from here on to meet him half way and provide him the advice he needs without the snarky and condescending attitude, and see how it goes.

Thank you, to the many who have been helpful on this thread, and to the others who are attacking, or trying to be funny at his expense (or who are being helpful but wrapping it up in snarky or sarcastic attitude), cool it.

Happy TG everyone, Norm

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 04:49PM
jeg
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I suggested this before, to no avail, but here might be someone here who can 'swing by' and help you, maybe they could bring their Haynes with them:

Arizona Mini Owners Club

 

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 04:09PM
 Edited:  Nov 26, 2014 04:16PM
jeg
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Yep, there's a video of some sort of throw-out bearing being replaced, though it looks like it came pre-assembled.  I couldn't tell if the plunger was oriented properly prior to the arm being inserted and the old bits cast aside in a most decisive manner.  I also couldn't see if the plunger has threads for the throw out nut.  Wonder if the slave cylinder clevis pin was replaced, there was a 5/16" screw holding things together before.

 

 

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 03:57PM
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NG
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodave
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuickSilver
Quote:

One thing is that you'll need to be able to separate the chaff from the wheat.

^^^^^^ this ^^^^^

 

Ha ha ha ha ha... That's a good one.... No really, that is the funniest $#!% I've read all day. Tongue Out

Excellent.

Quick "invoking emotions in others that they themselves are not sure they had" McSilver

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 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 03:14PM
 Edited:  Nov 26, 2014 04:03PM
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I beleive he has had the engine out once and the clutch cover off to spray the release bearing with WD40 if memory serves me correctly. Didn't you notice the oil dripping from the wiggle pin then Robster ? The clutch and seal can be done in the car but you will need at least a puller and a prayer to make sure it comes off easily, if it is stubborn it is easier to pull the engine and do it on the bench. If my clutch was juddering i would skim the surfaces to make sure they are level (along with the lugs) and replace all the components, you don't want to do this twice.

Edit: Didn't you buy a socket to fit the crank nut and have it apart ?

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 02:47PM
 Edited:  Nov 26, 2014 02:54PM
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I'm going to go out on a limb here, and say that I don't think you yet own a Haynes manual for the classic mini? 

Look, here's one: //www.ebay.com/itm/221168569066

That is the very best edition of the haynes for anyone with a Mk3-on mini. The gearbox rebuild section is simply fantastic, as is the engine rebuild and diagrams.... Tons of other stuff is also covered in great detail.

$37.50 delivered to your door. It really doesn't get any easier than that. Personally, I don't think I can, or will, offer any more help until you show evidence that you have purchased a manual. This reminds me of some lard4r5e who complains they can't lose weight, while feeding themselves bacon butties, truffles, cake, and several stacked plate visits to the buffet table, mixed in with and all other colestoral inducing goodness throughout the day, all the while refusing to hit the gym - and instead wanting to take a magical pill that will fix it all while they lounge on their collapsed sofa... Self help in YOUR case simply starts with the purchase of the big blue book....

It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini. 

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 02:38PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuickSilver
Quote:

One thing is that you'll need to be able to separate the chaff from the wheat.

^^^^^^ this ^^^^^

 

Ha ha ha ha ha... That's a good one.... No really, that is the funniest $#!% I've read all day. Tongue Out

 

But in all seriousness Robester, changing the clutch seal is well documented in the F#&%ing Haynes manual. Do you have one yet????

And if you are planning on keeping the mini, you won't only ever change a clutch seal just once. You will do it several times guaranteed. Also, I mananged 16 years of mini ownership and countless seal changes without the tool. Just wrap electrical tape over the splines to avoid nicking the seal edge, and use a piece of tube (ideally with a capped end) to tap the seal into place. But the correct tool is such a pleasure to use, it is worth buying one if you feel so inclinded...

That said, if you are thinking the clutch is at issue, just pull the whole drivetrain out. It makes EVERYTHING so much easier, and lets you swap out the driveline (engine) mounts that have been mentioned at least twice. Engine removal is well documented in the haynes manual (do you have one yet?). The one thing I do differently from haynes however, is that I don't pop the ball-joints. If you have at leasy 6" of chain between your hoist and lift bar, it is easy to push the engine to the left (to remove the right pot joint) and then to the right (to remove the left pot joint). That saves a lot of time. It does mean you need to drain the oil (other folks split the pot joints, but lithium grease makes a mess of everything it touches, and any foreign objects or even dust that gets in there will shorten the life of the pot joints...

I still think you need to fix the underlying issue. A little oil on the wiggle pin is not a sign that the clutch is caked in oil and the cause of your problems. I think it's more likely an engine setup issue. As I suggested, start with the settings in the Haynes manual (do you have one yet?) for basic ignition and carb setup, and if you are a REAL car guy, you won't think twice about purchasing a wideband O2 to easily and quickly check what your mixture is doing.

It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini. 

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 01:42PM
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NG
Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

in this thread you can see how alex and jeg de-railed the topic, i mean i gave a very serious question and suddenly somebody will say i am a troll just because i refuse to buy a $50 puller?dont you think it unfair? here i am needing help and these guys just refusing to help and moreso calling me names , if i can only find a shop here in yuma for minis  i wont be bugging you guys.. im just lost and needs help..

if you dont want to help its fine

bye..

Hang in there.

There are others on here that are helpful, very helpful, so stick around. Or use the email to contact folks.

One thing is that you'll need to be able to separate the chaff from the wheat.

--------------------
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 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 01:25PM
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in this thread you can see how alex and jeg de-railed the topic, i mean i gave a very serious question and suddenly somebody will say i am a troll just because i refuse to buy a $50 puller?dont you think it unfair? here i am needing help and these guys just refusing to help and moreso calling me names , if i can only find a shop here in yuma for minis  i wont be bugging you guys.. im just lost and needs help..

if you dont want to help its fine

bye..

 

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 12:56PM
jeg
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HAHAHAHHAHAHAHA - help me?  Umm, - why-?  You gonna listen?  Probably not...

The Haynes will be needed for sure and you'll also want to spray lots of WD40 and be careful.  Might want to replace the pressure plate and diaphragm while you're in there.  But, just think, you also get use some tape when you install the seal, if you don't have the special seal tool. 

 

Must be on drugs...

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 12:19PM
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US

The clutch can be done in the car but it is a pain. There are a couple of tools needed. When attempting a difficult repair like clutch replacement, I refer to the Haynes Manual for step to step instructions. Good Luck!

-Shawn

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 12:18PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

Baulking at spending $50 on an essential Mini tool on the same thread as asking about thousands of dollars worth of fuel injection...

Troll.

And a supposed car guy who doesn't know how to gap a spark plug? I tried to treat him seriously, but I'm now hitting the IGNORE button.

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 12:16PM
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question:

how many times would you use a flywheel puller?  once? for 50 bucks

and how many time would you use an F.I kit? everyday? for 1 grand

ill wholeheartedly go for F.i.  no hurt feelings..

 

 

tolling is illegal in some states.. fyi

 

now back to the topic of replacing the main oil seal thang! ( before i get interrupted) where was i???

 

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 12:06PM
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GB

Baulking at spending $50 on an essential Mini tool on the same thread as asking about thousands of dollars worth of fuel injection...

Troll.

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 11:48AM
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oh thorty, thats exactly whats happening to my clutch, it judders, i didnt know why until you mentioned about oil leak thingie, you know what it might be possible because last night i look under the car and saw some droplets of oil coming out from that little hole beneath the clutch assembly,  might be it, btw how easy is it to replace that main seal bearing??? do i need to take the engine totally apart??or just tilt the old seal with a screw driver and slip the new one.??  my goodness, the clutch puller alone costs 50 bucks.. 

 

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 11:27AM
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US

As Alex stated Specialist Components in the UK makes a nice FI system for the mini. 

Juddering-

As also stated above the term "juddering" is usually used to describe a slipping clutch sometimes caused by oil on the clutch, most likely the main seal leaking. Since your car is new to you, I would first check all the engine and subframe mounts. The rubber can erode over time and cause movement of the engine which sometimes feels like " juddering". If you can rock your engine by hand something is loose or worn. Then move on to tuning. Check ignition first, then fueling. The Haynes manual goes into more detail on these systems and it's a good book to have. Good Luck!

-Shawn

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 11:09AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

how can i make the gap smaller?? help

Most auto parts stores sell a tool for gapping the plugs... you can make it narrower, not bigger.  You can also get a set of "feeler guages" (little metal strips with specific depths) to check the gap accurately.  However, thats all a mute point if its not the right spec plug.  I know guys harp on this alot... but the Haynes manual specifies what plug to get, and they still make that specification... find new ones and make sure the gap is correct (also listed in the haynes manual).

Rich

 Posted: Nov 26, 2014 11:04AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

ill hammer that thing on top of the spark plug so that it will be closer to the needle like thing inside.. 

 

um, ok. Sounds like you have everything taken care of...

Cheers.

It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini. 

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