Steve, I have one at the shop, I would need $150 for it.

Please continue to share this opinion freely on the internet, hopefully it will drive prices down and I can pick up more of this unsafe and horribly designed GT6's 

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Send them over a pothole and you have a heap of trouble. I would buy a mgb over the midget just for size but both with the tops down they are another car to enjoy even more. Final conclusion good choice on a midget as you have surly something nice stuff lying about to build a great engine.

now back to the 420 F/W

sorry

I have one of their tubular 1 1/2 intakes for a mini. Calver was picking up some for his shop and picked though for a nice one for me. I must have spent a couple of hours with a grinder clearing it up before sending it out for fake powder coat chrome. It seems the cast alloy ones are common in Europe and around the UK. I have ask and heard from a couple of people but when it comes to getting it shipped the deal falls apart. I don't mind paying for the part and of course the shipping. We got a 1500 cc engine with smog pump, cat and single 38mm carb with water choke and 7 to 1 CR. My plan is install flat tops, mild cam work the head and add a pair of HIF 38s. Lower the ride, leave the rubber bumpers and add a roll bar. Alex can put the top down throw his tuba in the back and go to school. Steve (CTR)

Drop Maniflow a line about one of their tubular steel inlets.  If it's not a stock item, they'll be able to make one up for you to suit.

The MGBs had a twin HIF 38 intake which is not at all like a MG Midget. I have several sets of the carbs but no intake for a 1500 which would be the same engine as a spitfire. The US never got the good intakes have hooked up a couple of times with UK people but each deal fell though. I recently did a Spitfire removing the 38mm Solex or what ever that was and replacing it with HIF 38. A big improvement for the car. Thanks for the thought. Steve (CTR)

A friend of mine has a pair of HIF38's on an MG intake if that'll work.  Let me know if it's interesting for you and I'll find out how much he'd want for it.

From my research the MK1 was so bad they started the MK2 GT6+ before the end of the first year. I left it where I found it. I have decided to pull my 79 MG midget out of storage and rebuild it for son Alex. He can put the top down and carry his tuba. Anyone seen a twin 1 1/2 SU intake for the 1500 Spit? I have plenty carbs just need the intake. Going with flat tops a little cam and lowering it back down. Steve (CTR)

A nasty divorce with an ensuing child support for four offsprings did wonders in financial goal setting for me (read broke a$$ - lol) as far as my hobbies are concerned.

Be nice to your Wifey, it's really cheaper to keep her, as they say. Though in my case it was completely worth it and I replaced mine with a younger model who actually is intrigued with the hobby. Without her nudging, the GT wouldn't be in the garage now.

But I return you now to the current program "How To Increase The Racines Xmas Shopping Funds" now in progress 

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Sorry for the confusion. What I have is a 1969 Triumph GT6+ also known as a MK2.

There's quite a bit of difference between MK1 and MK2 (GT6+) mostly suspension to make it handle better and really go after the MG B GT in terms of handling.

Like our Minis the early editions like yours seems to be cuddled more by purists so you have a good thing in your hand there Sir. I chose a MK2 specifically because of the improvements made by the factory in terms of handling as I intend for this car to be my daily driver when it's finished (if it's finished) and I need all the help I can get with LA traffic.

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Just wondering, I have seen you mention the GT6 several times. Some times you say GT6 others GT6+. Having been offered a Spitfire which turned out to be a MK1 GT6. I did some reading and it appears there is a great deal of difference between the 6 and 6+. As far as I know this one is still under a pile of old news papers going back 15 years. Steve (CTR)

Did you see an allergist to get over this affliction ?

Please share details, I would like to know and my wife says she'd love to know why this effects me when it comes to minis ?

Money is tighter these days, that helps, but still placed an order at MM.

Don't make me see Dr. Phil !

(although tempting, don't have the extra coin for this right now)

Even more now because decent used ones are getting so hard to find... surfacing and changing the ring gear will cost more than this item on clearance!

This one is equiped with the Verto ring gear on a pre-Verto flywheel, so some find it unusual.  But it lets you use a modern starter on the pre-Verto clutch prefered by many. The tooth count is 129 (vs 107 for the early type) so you can bolt on an 80s and up conventional pre-engaged starter.  It WILL work with the early Lucas starters, but it will 'sound funny' because of the slightly different tooth pitch, and the engine will turn slower beacause of the 22 extra teeth per rotation. The inverse is also possible. I have the standard 107 tooth fltwheel, but run the late starter so mine sounds different and turns the engine about 20% faster. Despite the harsh sounding engagement, I've not seen any damage to any teeth but my very high compression did probably wear out one starter.

It really is a fantastic price.

Thankfully I'm allergic to hoarding at the moment. 

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Just ordered for 1293cc build....

Agreed - I've been using one since November 2001 and it's a fantastic upgrade. 

I got this in an email from our host.

I had similar on my Moke and it was such a fantsstic improvement and I highly reccomend it.

If it fits your budget and engine you should give it a shot.

//www.minimania.com/part/C-AEG420/Light-Weight-Flywheel-Non-Verto-For-Use-With-Pre-engaged-Starter?utm_source=main-newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=year-end-clearance&utm_content=C-AEG420

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