Where are you located? My email is flyinace2000 @ willsisti.net

I tried to email you direct but it bounced back. I'm currently rebuilding the power unit and suspension on a roll uo window car. In spite of my suggestion the owner wants red springs. I also have another car in the shop which is getting a engine/tranny freshen up. It has fairly new rubber springs and once both are back under their own power you are welcome to come for a ride or drive in either. I'm having front sub frames blasted and powder coated. Having a real problem finding good rear subs. Steve (CTR)

PS also rebuilding a 1275 Metro core can be any spec engine and any CWP.

I would seriously consider one of the other listed options for a header as the one on sale seems like it would be a lot harder to install due to the length from the bend to the tip (does not look detachable in the pic), the others have a "Y" piece come in 3 parts and are detachable. Seems like a hell of a deal for a stainless header but you know what they say about too good of a deal.

I guess it is a bit of a goldilocks situation Where the rubber springs are "just right".  I would love to find someone local who has good rubber and someone who has the springs installed.

I'm guessing that exhuast manifold will come up from the bottom ( possibly top )

Either way, your life will be easier if you pull the carbs off.  Order a new manifold gasket as well as possibly new brass nuts and manifold washers if need be.  Make sure you get the right clamp for the OD of the join.  May want to get the bracket for the dif to downpipe.
You may also find it easier to undo the top engine steady ( and bottom if fitted ) so you can wiggle the engine.

Concerning the springs... While coil springs may be an upgrade to the rubber springs you have now they will not, in my opinion, be better than a set of original style rubber springs. The coil springs will either give you a smooth ride with considerable body roll or a very stiff ride depending on the set you choose.

Kelley

Quick follow up.  While doing some of my brake work last week i noticed that my exhaust has "RC40" stamped on it.  Then today i noticed that this is on sale.

//www.minimania.com/part/C-AEG330/Polished-Stainless-Lcb-Header-Manifold-With-Dual-Sensor-Bosses

I think that would fit, but what do i need to check to confirm.  Knowning my history is this something i could DIY, or better left to the pros?  Basically how much do i need to tear down to get to the mounting points?  Carb comes off?

Also, i am pretty sure i am going to buy a set off springs to replace the rubber cones. It won't be original, but i think it would be a nice "upgrade".  lus since i don't want to have to buy any (more) specialized tools i am thinkin of subbing out that install.  erhaps just have them do the exhaust and suspension all at "the same time".  And of course this is after my brakes are sorted damnit!

Solid advice.  I will order new rubber cones to get that all sorted. I can't believe the installation method for the bump stops will require a 90 wrench to install.  O well.  

I will finish the brakes, i just needed a brake...har har har.  lus its raining today so i can't drive the car yet to see if last nights bleeding helped.  Today's project is to sort out the wiper motor, fix the plastic interior peice that mounts the heater core and switches, and finally finish repairing my plastic door pocket.  Indoor projects!

Someone sells (maybe our host) a 2 foot or so piece of downpipe with i believe a flex end on it to fix the issue you have and a lot cheaper than the alternatives. Don't waste your money on a new pea shooter system. Cheapest and the best way imo so as not to disturb the flange seal would be to go to your local muffler shop and have a flexible link installed (available at parts stores) which the 90's mini's had from the factory. Another part that needs replacing is the waxstat jet on the carb with a straightforward regular jet as they are problematic too.

To change the rod change seal put the car in reverse and punch out the roll pin on the shifter linkage then dig out the seal with a pick, be careful there may be more than one in there. Just replace the seal with the new one installing it with a deep socket or similar, if there is play in the bushing the new one will leak also it is not uncommon to see these seals leaking on Mini's.

Steve covered the bump stop issue.

Finish the brakes........

Thanks for the link.  This looks to be the direct replacment for what i have now.  Much more cost effective than dropping $550 on a who new system. 

You'll notice the flare on the pipe here

//www.minimania.com/part/GEX106/Stock-Exhaust-Single-Box-System-Mini--Cooper-Saloon-850-998

Yeah i noticed i was missing that bracket, its on my "to order" list.  

I found a link to the miniowners profile pages, but i can figure out how to sign up or log in.  My car is a 1973 Innocenti Mini 1001.

It's more than a simple length of pipe.  Of course, you need the correct bend, but it's the flare at the top that needs to be correct to mate to the manifold and clamp.
You need to get the lower support too, that tune mentioned.

If you are a mind to go that way it would be a huge improvement. You can buy just the down pipe but getting it to seal to and old cast manifold can be a bear. I have done the update several timesand have the old cast manifolds most are no longer good in the seal area. Steve (CTR)

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Answered one of my own questions.  Exhaust manifold mounts to the downpipe in this photo.  The link below looks like the right kit, but can i just buy the length of pipe or is this a good job for a locl exhaust shop to just patch/repair

//www.minimania.com/part/C-STN17/Stage-One-Kit-998-Mini--Mini-Cooper-Stage-1

I'd say you need to renew the engine steady bushing. The engine is rocking and that will mess with the exhaust. There should also be a bracket to support the down tube at the bottom of the tranny bolted to the diff side cover. Replacing the seal and installing a anti lleak kit is ffairly simple. You could do a search here and find it covered several times. The bump stop is a wreck because you need to replace the rubber springs in your sub frame. Riding on the bumps is not good for anything. I have a short 7/16 combo (open end and box end ) wrench I heated and bent 90 degrees for just that job. 

I would not suggest you drive around on double pump brakes. Everything now stops on a dime if you can't there will be trouble. The last few cars I have bought wer cars converted to 1275 and the brakes were not changed to disc. I'm now looking for cars with rear end damage with a mind toward clipping a couple. 

Like so many here no info in your profile. I could send you a freashly powder coated sub frame with all new componets ready to install. Could even include a fresh 1275 metro power unit and disc brakes. Steve (CTR)

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I got tired of messing with my brakes and just going to live with a double pump for now.  On to other things!

1. I noticed a 3-4 inch crack in my exhaaust.  Is that one solid peice from the exhaust manifold or is the downpipe a seperate piece of pipe?  I have 73 innocenti (998).

2. Same pic, I think i have a bit of oil coming out of the gear selector rod.  I bought the kit to replace the seals and gator. Is there a good article/post on installation?

3. Rubber pump stop.  Mine is the 2 threaded mounts, but how do you get it installated?  If i take the wheel off i can feel the threads and nuts holding it on, but not sure how to get a tool up there.

Thanks