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 Posted: Jun 12, 2015 04:41PM
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Image Gallery

Photos attached: the fuse box, the relay setup, and with the engine running. 12.3 volts. Not bad for a 1972 voltage regulator. 

 

The last two are of my homemade heat exchanger, which was the reason for adding a high load electrical circuit. It cools the air quite well without adding humidity. It uses 2 120mm computer fan radiators and a small 12v water pump to circulate water through both rads. I use a Tornado fan to suck air in through the first radiator (first stage cooling), it enters the cooler (second stage cooling), and is then forced back out through another radiator (third stage). A piece of dryer duct words great for a flexible vent. Hillbilly engineering at its best.

 Posted: Jun 12, 2015 06:37AM
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Just a bump for this thread. Got this completed last night. Works great! pictures will follow.

 Posted: Jan 26, 2015 01:04AM
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I was hoping it doesn't do anything.

 Posted: Jan 26, 2015 12:51AM
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Its a fresh air intake.  

If you loook under the wheel arch you should see trunking that connects the end of your "thingy" (I think its more formally referred to as an "Intake trunk") to another fitting that takes the air through the upper inner wheel arch under the dash to the heater intake....

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 11:29PM
 Edited:  Jan 26, 2015 01:05AM
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I just figured out how to do it, now have to order the parts. I can get the wires ran if I just run to NAPA, but will have to wait on the accessories unit. I'm not the electrical megasavant you are.

Oh, do you know what the circled duct is for? This thing is right in the way, and I've noticed many cars do not have it.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 10:26PM
mur
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Uh, dude, you have to do some heavy lifting on the project, you need to be done this by Fruday night. Pictures too.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 10:13PM
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Good stuff. Thanks again! I wonder how many people are going to be elbow deep in relays and headlamps this Saturday. I work, or else I would be doing it.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 10:09PM
mur
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Same thing.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 10:07PM
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Everything sounded good until you mentioned the white wire. I was just going to get my trigger using a female spade connector coming out of terminal 3 (switched/unfused). I need to get the trigger from the white ignition switch wire?

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 09:59PM
mur
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You want to use the same wire size all the way through a run. Obviously the trigger for the relay need not be that big, again, it carries very little current. One thing you want to keep in mind though is that you don't want to carry an extensive selection of wire on hand. 14ga would be fine for the trigger wire and the ground #85. It would also be fine for fixing a tail lamp or an electric fuel pump wire or something you might find yourself having to fix. I think some of the sites that describe relays say you could go as small as 20ga or 22 ga, but what else could you use it for?

For what you want to do, get an inline fuse holder. Get a 15 amp fuse, now that is nicely 150% of your expected load. Normally I would suggest a ten amp fuse for a CLA or cigar lighter adapter, as that is what Toyota fuse them for. You run the fuse holder to the solenoid and then into the #30. Use 10ga to extend wire as you need to. Then from #87 or #87b depending on the relay you buy, 10 ga to your power panel. 10 ga again for your wire to ground. I suggest you make a new ground by fitting a screw to the dash or wherever you fit the panel. Then 14ga for the 85 and 86. Use an in line fuse holder to go from the car's fuse box white wire, fit a 2 amp fuse. Easy peasy. Use care passing the 15 amp 10 ga through the firewall, choose a larger hole and fit a grommet.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 09:43PM
 Edited:  Jan 25, 2015 09:58PM
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10 gauge. Got it. Would you also use the 10 guage from the solenoid to the relay? I was going with 16 gauge as that's what the AWG wire size charts said. I will be using a jumping kit for the wires bewteen the components: //www.ebay.com/itm/121464089505

Do these jumping wires seem adequate? Also, what fuse would you use between the solenoid and relay? Do you think 10 amps is too little capacity?

I was going to use this relay. Let me know if inadequate: //www.ebay.com/itm/321302734872

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 09:24PM
mur
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Our Hosts sell a relay kit, but there is no information about the load capacity.

here is an example of a relay that will easily handle the loads you are talking about:

I would run a heavier wire to the CLA sockets and USB receptacles, and the same size wire from that assembly to the ground point you choose.  I would go with a 10ga wire from the relay to the sockets. It will easily run all you have listed.

//www.amazon.com/2pcs-Relay-Plastic-Socket-Truck/dp/B00HR7K8RE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422249862&sr=8-1&keywords=a13112800ux1088&pebp=1422249864737&peasin=B00HR7K8RE

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 08:57PM
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Sure, the item is just a homemade heat exchanger similar but smaller than www.b-kool.net that uses this fan and water pump:

//www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPSC-857-12-Volt-Removable-Mounting/dp/B000765MHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422248066&sr=8-1&keywords=road+pro+fan  It is fused for 8 amps.

//www.ebay.com/itm/DC-3W-USB-4-5V-12V-Submersible-Water-Pump-Aquarium-Fish-Pond-micro-mini-Pump-/150871183897?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23209f9219 This draws 0.6 amps if I plug it into the 5 volt USB.

The accessory device will be this: //www.ebay.com/itm/251787660490

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 08:44PM
mur
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relays are mostly 20 amps or more. Jeg re did his diagram to show a low amp fuse on the trigger wire. You do want to over specify hardware by a good margin. Even so, maybe show us this item that will have a 9 amp draw so we can be certain it will work.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 07:40PM
 Edited:  Jan 25, 2015 07:52PM
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Odd, it seems the solenoid offered by minimania would be wired opposite. Good to know.

I would also like to revisit a few questions I had earlier:

I will be drawing about 9 amps through the relay. Would you use a 10 amp relay, or go with the 30 amp? Would it be ok to use a 10 amp fuse from the solenoid to the relay? And should I use a smaller fuse between fuse box terminal 3 and #86? I saw online that when taking the resistance of the relay coil into account, the amperage across #85 and#86 is about .016 amps when working with 12 voilts.


Also, I need a SPST relay correct? or will a SPDT relay work as well.

These should be my last questions. It doesn't seem like it but I have learned a lot.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 07:17PM
mur
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The solenoid in the picture is correct. It appears to be wired correctly. It is a red top solenoid, if you press the red thing you will activate the starter but not the ignition. No fire hazard there at all.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 07:02PM
 Edited:  Jan 25, 2015 07:10PM
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OK, so mine is installed incorrectly? I have attached a crappy picture. The terminal on the wing side (right) is connected to the starter.

Jeg, you're saying this is correct and mur is saying not so. I don't care who's right, I just want to make sure I havn't been driving around a fire hazard.

 

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 06:09PM
 Edited:  Jan 26, 2015 03:15PM
jeg
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Yours is correct, or at least as I've got it on my car.  Of course, I've changed it from the 3-terminal to the 4-terminal when I installed the ballast resistor for my ignition.  But that's another story...

I have a better picture of the SRB335 solenoid which I've incorporated into the drawing.  This one has the inner wing mounting bracket shown.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 05:50PM
mur
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Installed properly, the terminal that goes to the starter is close to the firewall and the other terminal which also serves as the main junction point is closer to the middle of the car. Note that this terminal also has the spade terminals for the main harness to plug in.

Something often overlooked with the solenoid: it requires a good ground via the mounting bracket to work properly, so don't be afraid to displace a bit of paint when you fasten it. Then don't be afraid to cover the screws on the outside of the inner fender.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 05:30PM
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On my car, the terminal closest to the wing (the right terminal for our diagrams) goes to the starter. Of course, minimania says this solenoid is for 1978 and later cars, and mine is a 1972, which is using this solenoid. Does this sound right? Or should I fit this one: //www.minimania.com/part/S7051/Starter-Solenoid-W-pushbutton---Mini--Mini-Cooper

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