Thanks Jeg!

As you can see, it's an external hinged mini ('68 MkII in fact), but with a few later version mods, including Alternator, rod change, reverse lights, high mounted third brake light, later steering column, 1275 with a 1.75" SU, some improved sound deadening and a heated rear window.

You'll also see I've introduced some side markers in the A panel, as I'm all about visibility!  

Scott

Well done!

Fair point Shrimps!  Definitely concened about all my hard work going up in smoke and melted wiring.

I've attached an image of what I'm working on - minibitz will recognize if he's on here, as he helped me get it to the paint shop - nearing the end of the rebuild Lee!

Scott

It wouldn't hurt to have a fire extinguisher handy when testing things.  After all, if you have it handy you won't need it.

I had thought the burning points issue was actually a Petronix thing....corrected with a newer version.....or can closed points actually burn out

1.  Yes... but like zippy said - disconnect the dizzie.

2. Maybe - some are more sensitive than points (ie will die very quickly) others are immune.  As for 1; disconnect first.

3.  Make a list and work through it??? Lights (parkers/low beam/high beam/ auxilliary lights (spots/fogs etc), horn, wipers, radio, auxilliary power (cigar lighter socket), etc etc.  If you have an electronic fuel pump you should hear it kick inro action when you turn the ignition on.  Depending how you wired the car some things may happen with the ignition off (maybe radio?) while others will require the ignition to be on (maybe headlights??).  arkers should be on with the ignition off.

4. I would connect it to the first step on the switch (usually low speed)... Can't see any reason for 2 wires as all wiper switches I've seen go through the "slow" point first so why bother to switch further...

The fused earth seems like a very prudent option..

Cheers, Ian

Pull the feed wire to the coil.
I made up a "fused ground cable" to go from battery to ground. Any autoparts store will sell a fuse holder with a couple of pigtails. You just need to add adapters to clamp to the battery and ground point in trunk.
This way you can test all circuits except the starter. (the small-ish wire won't take that kind of load)
Saved me a lot of expensive Moke smoke as I had mixed up feed and ground to the license plate lamp. (dead short)

Before I button up the dash and headlining, I want to test all the electrical circuits so I don't have to pull things apart again.

I've read (somewhere) that you shouldn't leave the ignition switch in the "on" position for very long, else you can burn points.

1)  Is that true?

2)  I'm expecting that if you have electronic ignition, it's not an issue, correct?

3)  Anyone have suggestions for how to methodically go through the car and test things (apart from turning the key to on, and turning everything on/off to see what happens)?

4)  Related question, I have a MkII wiper motor (single speed, square), but a later wiring harness for a two speed motor - which of the late harness leads should be attached to the power connection on the single speed motor?  (I'm expecting two of them could/should be attached, so the column switch turns the motor on regardless of the column switch being in the "slow" or "fast" postition).

I've got a new battery, all fuses, bulbs & switches in place, and am armed with both a test light and a multimeter.

This is a non-running car (yet), so engine will not be started for this work.

Thanks!

Scott