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 Connection and hose questions

 Created by: Richard1
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 Posted: Jan 28, 2015 03:11AM
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Thanks. That will help a lot.

Since the canister is supposed to supply the gasses back to the engine, could I just cap the extra line and let it just collect from the engine?

I guess I should check my gas cap to see if it is ventilated. The only way to add a vent tube would be weld something to the low end of the neck, but I think even that is up aganst the body. The two lines that are there are supply and return.

 

 Posted: Jan 27, 2015 05:58PM
 Edited:  Jan 27, 2015 06:00PM
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Cold night- good to help solve problems

I labeled the main vacc lines to this picture.

1 - Intake to small tube behind Valve cover.

2 - Small tube to - Purge Valve

3 Purge Valve - to  Charcoal Canister ( inside inner fender)

4 - charcoal Canister vent return to tank.

 

Your own  imagination for how you would like to handle the purge valve + charcoal back to tank- If you even do that.  I would almost consider capping the vacc port at the intake- and not even run the charcoal canister  and Purge Valve.

 

 

 Posted: Jan 27, 2015 05:27PM
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I varried my afternoon to clean up the switches and contacts for the lights and turn signals and made the wiring harness from the dash to the rear.

But I'm still a little stumped on the hoses. I've got the thin ones worked out, but I haven't figured out where one of the tubes on the front of the injector base goes, nor one of the little ones on the top of the head (I'm thinking it might go to the canister). Nor have I decided where to connect the two tubes on the canister. I don't have a vent on the fuel tank to connect it to, as some have suggested.

The drawing above is interesting, but too small and no names or shapes to relate to for some things.

 Posted: Jan 27, 2015 09:40AM
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Great news! Your ability to get things done amazes me.

Terry

 Posted: Jan 27, 2015 09:29AM
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This morning I made a grommet. A piece of tight fitting hose that I cut a ring into and inserted into the booster.

 

 Posted: Jan 26, 2015 09:46AM
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Great news, I found my brake booster line and valve in a remote storage at the body shop. Now all it is missing is the gromet, that I will find or make.

And I found the thin tubing, so I will make those lines this afternoon.

Thanks to all.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 06:14PM
 Edited:  Jan 26, 2015 07:21AM
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Image Gallery

SPI Booster- uses Large Banjo Bolt on the intake- to the Booster itself. Same one way valve is in line- and same Booster connection as previously pictured= Only difference that shown - MPI is a slip fit connection - SPI = Banjo

And some easy shots of the vacc + Fuel Trap as mounted.

- Yellow vacc line- comes from the snout of the air filter housing- to that bottom connection.

= Red supplies vacc to that housing=  From the Back of the inake - very close to the firewall.

Back there there are 2 vacc nipples== One goes as said to the air cleaner housing. The second links in the Fuel Trap.

As pictured. Short run   Back of intake to Fuel trap as described here.  Then the other side of the fuel trap goes right to the ECU Map sensor.

I replaced these lines with silicone vacc line. Shouldnt ever be a problem area as many SPI's fail to run right when cracs occur in these pipes. 

 

  Richard -: To add =  your second picture-- asking for where the metal tube behind the Valvecover connects to ....

    That connection - bends 90Degrees- to the intake manifold front - right under the SPI Throttle body...

The other end -  out towards the end of the head- towards the radiator - goes to the Evap Vent Purge Valve - that technically bolts to the Body support right behind the radiator. From there it goes to the charcoal canister -- I see in your pciture- Charcoal canister in the opposite corner of the engine bay .  other side of the engine bay .  Charocal canister on SPI Cars was in the inner fender - LH Side.

 

 

I think you will be very creative on how to hook al this stuff up having the different nose / vs SPI Electrics + Harness

 

 

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 05:36PM
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The booster end is the right angle one which passes into the grommet as someone else mentioned.

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 05:31PM
 Edited:  Jan 25, 2015 05:35PM
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Image Gallery

These are not the best pictures but could at least give you an idea on the booster. This is from an MPi but the booster end is the same. The manifold end may be differnt.

 

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 01:23PM
 Edited:  Jan 25, 2015 02:17PM
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Thanks for those explanations. I'll be going through this and trying to make sense of it tomorrow, with the diagram as well. I have the haynes manual as well as the SPI and another one, just not a lot of pictures, and lots of explications of how to take things apart, then reverse procedure to install. Since this came as a non-matching kit, I have to assemble before I could take apart.

Will look closer for the details.

"Fuel trap intake" from your minispares link. So that is what that is. It is mounted to a latch-like plate I was trying to find a place for Friday. I'll look through the manuals now that I know what it is, but if anyone has pictures of it's installed position, I'd appreciate it.

 

 

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 06:17AM
 Edited:  Jan 20, 2017 10:51AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_lankford

I THINK your question about the two nipples underneath the air filter does not matter so much, if it is what I think it is. The diagram says it is the thermac valve ( thermostatically controlled vacuum) to control the servo on the air snorkel .

I do not own a SPI, but have driven carburetted minis with those hoses not connected (see ** below).  For example, if the stock filter assembly is replaced with a cone filter, then all of that paraphenalia gets scrapped anyway, and the car does not miss it.

They are part of the thermostatically controlled air supply allowing hot air from a "stove" on the exhaust manifold to enter the air filter housing, preheating the air for better fuel vaporization/ better running (or less pollution) in cold weather. When the engine warms up after just a minute or two,  the thermostat allows the vacuum control to close off the  flap in the snorkel,  and cold air enters by the usual direct route instead.

You´re right, it´s not necessary to connect the air filter housing to the vacuum system. But in that case, it´s essential to plug the relevant connection on the backside of the intake manifold. There are 2 connections on the backside of the manifold ansd one must be plugged. The 2nd connection will be needed for the ECU. From the manifold there is a tube to the fuel trap. A small rectangualar box at the bulkhead with 2 connections.

See link: //www.minispares.com/search/classic/NPC10001.aspx

The fuel trap is monted upside down, connections pointing downwards.

Tubes are connected as follows: Manifold to black connector. Green connector to ECU.

This fuel trap is essential as it prevents fuel vapors from entering the ECU which would damage the MAP sensor!

Regarding pic 2:

The servo is connected to the intake manifold through a check valve. The connection at the servo is with a grommet and a push-in elbow. The grommet is part of the servo repair kit and not availlable as single part. However, you might do a "scrapyard rallye" and see on other models if you find something suitable. The check valve is just installed into the hose at a suitable place between servo mount and manifold.

The original check valve is NLA but any check valve from another model/brand will work.

Regarding pic 3:

The connection on the filter housing (actuator) can be left alone as mentioned above. The other connection, between rocker cover and intake manifold is used for the tank ventilation system. Further referred to regarding pic 5.

Regarding pic 5:

This is the charcoal cannister for the tank ventilation system. It´s normally installed with a bracket in the LH front wheelwell. The tank ventilation is connected with a hose to the cannister, from the cannister to a solenoid valve (purge valve). See above photo "underbonnet view" item #16. And from the purge valve to the connection on pic 3 between rocker cover and manifold. If this cannister and purge valve is left away, it will not cause any problem. The tank will then be vented free air to below the boot floor as on carburtettor models. The connection between rocker cover and manifold will have to be blocked/sealed.

However, at least here in Europe, it´s not allowed to remove it for environmental protection, as this system eliminates fuel fumes from the tank... It would fail the MOT if detected during inspection.

Have a look at this link: //www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=page&id=172

It will give you an idea of the installation

Regarding pic 4:

This valve is for the crank case ventilation. See above schematic "diagram of SPi hoses etc.", items #10 The valve is connected with a tee in between the 2 oil separators and with the elbow to the fuel injection module. Not to the intake manifold! The connection on the manifold is needed for the brake servo vacuum!

I would suggest, you get yourself a copy of the latest Haynes manual. All the above is explained quite good. Here you´ll find it to download for free: //miniscene-unterfranken.de/media/info/haynes_repairmanual_mini_69-2001.pdf

 

Cheers, Diddi 

 

 

 Posted: Jan 25, 2015 03:52AM
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Right now I'm trying to find solutions without ordering originals, as that would postpone assembly until the end of April when I could get them here reasonably, and there are lots of generic parts aroound here. I bought elbos and hoses, and have most of that figured out. Just those remaining questions for now. Ent the SPI engine compartment picture does not show the canister in the corner.

I was trying to figure out the lines and fittings in the catalog on this site, and no pictures, no way really where I could tell which hose it is for the SPI booster. The pictures I see have the valve in the middle of the line. I have the fancy fitting at the other end, just no valve (generic available) or hose and fitting for the booster. To order I have to add to the US cost $200 for FedEx, $100 or so to customs, and yes, I could have them in 3 weeks or so (fortunately I am a registered importer). I'd really like to get it on the road this week.

 Posted: Jan 24, 2015 05:24PM
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I THINK your question about the two nipples underneath the air filter does not matter so much, if it is what I think it is. The diagram says it is the thermac valve ( thermostatically controlled vacuum) to control the servo on the air snorkel .

I do not own a SPI, but have driven carburetted minis with those hoses not connected (see ** below).  For example, if the stock filter assembly is replaced with a cone filter, then all of that paraphenalia gets scrapped anyway, and the car does not miss it.

They are part of the thermostatically controlled air supply allowing hot air from a "stove" on the exhaust manifold to enter the air filter housing, preheating the air for better fuel vaporization/ better running (or less pollution) in cold weather. When the engine warms up after just a minute or two,  the thermostat allows the vacuum control to close off the  flap in the snorkel,  and cold air enters by the usual direct route instead.

Again, I have driven these disconnected and noticed no difference. Perhaps in cold Canada it might, or when cold-damp / ntake icing

**Just make sure the vacuum source TO THE thermostat is plugged off, and that the flap inside the air horn snorkel is lying down flat and out of the way so that the cold air can come in straight through the snorkel. Under no vacuum, it should be flat. 

If your SPI computer that does not like this, then ignore all of the above,  it is derived from carb experience.

 

 Posted: Jan 24, 2015 04:07PM
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Easiest thing is to buy all the Spi vacuum hoses new. The short one shown in the first pic goes to the back of the manifold, then to the fuel trap, then from the fuel trap, a hose goes to the ECU. The other nipple coming off the back of the manifold goes to the valve on the bottom of the air filter (one of the 2 vacuum ports on the bottom of the air filter in the pic), then the other goes from that valve to the actuator on top on the filter. It's a sensor that closes off the fresh air when the engine is cold.


As far as the brake booster vacuum, I hope you can get parts. At the manifold it's a banjo bolt with a fitting and hose that goes to the brake booster. I guess you could fabricate something as long as it seals up. The fitting that goes into the brake booster is gonna be a check valve, so you will have to find something for that purpose. I'm not an expert, but this is my experience with the Spi. Hope this helps.

 Posted: Jan 24, 2015 10:28AM
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here is a diagram of the original SPi hoses etc:

and the layout of the engine bay

The booster has a special connector with a hard plastic hose to the manifold.

Terry

 Posted: Jan 24, 2015 10:22AM
 Edited:  Jan 24, 2015 10:29AM
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Each day as I progress I come up with more questions, most of which don't seem to be in the manuals.

 

1. On the bottom of the air cleaner there are two pin type connectors. What do they connect to, and is it with that little tube like thing for one? I only have one of the little tubes.

2. Brake Booster. What type of connection (pics if possible) goes in the little hole? I have the connector for the other side? Just need to find a valve and the connector for the booster. (I think).

3.The air filter has a piece of small hose comming off it. Does it connect to the extra tube I have on the vent tube across the head? If not, what do the two connect to?

4. Does the little grey plastic valve just end there without a connection under the filter? Or does it go somewhere?

5. Where do the hoses connect from the little cannister in the corner.