It would be very helpful if someone could give me the measurements from a stock rear subframe of the correct location of the inner radius arm mounting holes. Mine is so modified that I can move the arms nearly half an inch forward and back. ……..I did get the pivots freed up! Whew! This car sat for 15 years (indoors) after it's renovation so there are a few interesting issues! Also, If I'm going to be welding some washers on under there, not far from the fuel tank and pump, what precautions should I take for safety? Do I have to drain and remove parts, or just carefully cover them to have someone do a few quick welds? (I've seen people wildly welding away on their cars but have no idea if they were sane or not! Once again, thanks for the helpful opinions and info! Also, It's interesting to note that on the Mk 1 uk forum the adjustable R A brackets are a contested topic as well, mentioning particular brands as poor quality. DBC

I think you best replace the pin, bush, bearing and tube on both sides.....so get two kits, get the bush reamed...fix what's needing weld and get MINIing

It would be great if I could free up the pin and fill in the holes! I think the outer brackets will be fine once I get the inner holes back to normal. Thanks! DBC

Just weld up (repair the holes..you'll be fine....(and free up the pin of course..)

Despite others experience, I fitted the Minisport rear adjustable brackets over 10 yeras ago.  I had the alignment set up properly at that time and although its been checked several times since there's been no need to undo/adjust them since.

Cheers, Ian

OUCH! I discovered the core of my problem; the radius arm bushings froze up and wore out the inner mounting holes in the subframe. With the bolts loose I can move the radius arms forward and back A LOT! …...In fact I think it was set up this way intentionally to get lots of toe-out. There is not enough bent metal around the hole for the amount of movement it has, it's much too cleanly done, and now a little beat-up from moving around as its gotten looser since the bushings froze up. Perhaps I can replace the radius arms and mend the holes with washers welded in place? Any suggestions …….(other than a new subframe) …..(insert screaming noises here)…... will be much appreciated!! DBC

Yes, thanks, I did check for shims DBC

You did check that there weren't any shims between the outer bracket and the subframe?????

Cheers, Ian

Not sure about flimsy? we had them on all the race cars back in the day and I still fit them on all the road cars here at the shop never had one break or come out of alignment if fitted correctly.

I don't like adjustable brackets, most are flimsy.
You can work out how far to move the hole forward by simple trigonometry, the shaft is ~13" long.
Rather than weld a washer on, I milled the hole forward (5mm on mine) then welded the back of the hole, and filed to fit the shaft neatly.
Move the hole a little more forward than needed, then you can shim the bracket for adjustment.
If you want negative camber, move the hole upwards as well.

Agreed....... then, at the shop adjustments can be made without pulling out the wedling torch!

Buy a set of adjustable brackets it makes it so easy and no trial and error involved.................... //www.minimania.com/part/MS73/Adjustable-Rear-Camber--Toe-Brackets--Mini--Mini-Cooper

I found a perfect alignment shop here in Santa Barbara CA, the Mini just fit on his machine and classic mini's are in his computer program. So the problem IS excessive toe-out! Great to know! Total toe; -3.31degrees. -1.58d Left and -1.73d Right. So I need to grind out my rear camber brackets towards the front and weld on a washer. Does anyone have a suggestion about how far to bring my radius arms foreword? If not I guess I'll just do trial n error style! (possibly with a lot of error!!) I'm guessing about 1/16 in. ??

Thank you! this has been very helpful. DBC

Tight turns = low gears (and throttle use to aid control) = forget about fuel economy.... (= Fun

Cheers, Ian 

PS .. inner tyre edge wear = toe out = worn trailling arm bushes or incorrect settings (IMHO)

You want FUN and good mileage? From my experience, that's an either-or kind of question. (I never check fuel consumption on my Mini... just the level.)

Yes.

Yoko A032Rs might wear out in 1500 - 2000 miles but not most other tires. If soft compound wear the fronts would wear out first not the rears and not unevenly unless something is wrong as others have said.

I've now checked out the radius arm for play, the bearings, and the rear camber brackets (non-adjustable type) next I'll have it checked for crabbing, and have a shop re-check the alignment measurements to be sure I got them right. (Extreme camber is noticeable to the naked eye, isn't it?) I'm driving this thing on roads that are almost all tight turns (SO FUN!) what kind of mileage should I expect? By the way, the fronts show almost no wear. If I was doing autocross (for example) would most of the wear be on the rear? I'm not doing handbrake turns or anything like that! (yet!)

Thanks!! DBC Perhaps my next pair of new tires will be driven only on the freeway for a few hundred miles while carefully measuring tread depth before I go into the mountain roads again, see what that tells me.

I agree; I'm also running ½° negative camber in the rear and not wearing out my 165/60/12 Yokohamas.  Not the Yoko 510's, nor the 539's nor my Hankook iCept 145/70/12 winter tires.  I'd be suspicious of excessive play in the radius arm.

With those settings you should not be experiencing that tire wear, something is out of wack. Have someone follow you down the road and see if the car is crabbing (rear wheels not lining up with the fronts) and car appears to be travelling sideways.

Rear camber adjusting plates?