1098 Powerunit $250
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jan 26, 2015 05:24PM | velocity | |
Jan 26, 2015 05:20PM | dr dave | Edited: Jan 26, 2015 05:25PM |
Jan 26, 2015 05:13PM | jeg | Edited: Jan 26, 2015 05:24PM |
Jan 26, 2015 05:00PM | mur | |
Jan 26, 2015 04:58PM | jeg | |
Jan 26, 2015 04:54PM | velocity | |
Jan 26, 2015 04:45PM | jeg | |
Jan 26, 2015 02:08PM | SXSMAN | |
Jan 26, 2015 01:57PM | Dan Moffet | |
Jan 26, 2015 01:35PM | DRMINI | Edited: Jan 26, 2015 01:37PM |
Jan 26, 2015 01:13PM | zippypinhead | |
Jan 26, 2015 01:07PM | SXSMAN | |
Jan 26, 2015 12:32PM | Shrimps | |
Jan 26, 2015 12:27PM | velocity | |
Jan 26, 2015 12:21PM | Alex | |
Jan 26, 2015 11:35AM | malsal | |
Jan 26, 2015 11:22AM | SXSMAN | |
Jan 26, 2015 11:11AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jan 26, 2015 11:00AM | malsal | |
Jan 26, 2015 10:51AM | velocity |
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Looks to me as though half the number has been 'polished away'.
What is stamped onto the tag before the numbers 107...?
not significant, i know that only the first two numbers on the 2nd batch of numbers to the right are the important ones...mine says 10...so? what does it mean??? tell me now....Alex where are you??, are you being interviewed again?? LOL
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Some 1979 and all 1980 Canadian Market mini 1000s had A blocks with timing chain tensioners like an A+. The later ones had the larger idler gear bearing And the larger layshaft shaft and bearings. If I was building a 1098 I would use a thick flange 998 block, preferably one of the late A type units. This unit would be a great source for a crankshaft, head, carbs-though they need the correct angle pieces for a mini application. Or it would drop straight in to a LeMons car ....
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ok, how would i verify if the engine is indeed 1098 or 998? if it is indeed 998cc, i will return it to him immediately and refund my money... im so mad
Someone might care to look at these photos and might be able to see if it's an A or A+.
By altering/modifying/dismantling and quite frankly, abusing the purchased item you no doubt have accepted the terms of sale and violated any warranty implied or otherwise.
One could always counter claim you're a highly skilled mechanically inclined individual (evident by your efforts to date) who put a different engine in it; after all, you did take the old yellow engine out to wash the clutch with WD40 and now it has a poorly-painted blue engine with fleamarket mis-matched ignition leads, Japanese throttle cable, toilet pipe air-filter, backwards fan, bolts and screws where there should be clevis pins, screen-door clutch slave return spring, bicycle grip & soda bottle shift mechanism.
Oh, yeah, the seller (obviously not Jeremy...) will gladly take it back...
(LOL!)
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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no way!! when i bought it on september last year , the seller's Ad says for sale Leyland Mini Special 1098cc
and he made sure that it was 1098cc and it shows in the title as well.
Alex is just pulling your leg, lol
he can't pull mine, lol
Alex said that he had an article in Mini Magazine, and that he was interviewed, been looking for it in youtube but there's none, i'd like to see how he looks like
Many people are interviewed for printed magazine articles and the interview is printed in the magazine, not VVS video'd and put on YouTube.
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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DRMINI: I think trying to explain the comparative issues of bore VS stroke for power and performance here may be futile.
Yes Dan, I can see why'd you'd say that.
But, there is more than one person reading.
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DRMINI: I think trying to explain the comparative issues of bore VS stroke for power and performance here may be futile.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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With these 30-50+ year old engines, the innards could now be 998 or 1098 after rebuilding.
Many 998s here in Oz [probably in UK too] have had a 1098 crank and O/S 1098 pistons fitted in the past for extra grunt, so you can't just go by the engine number.
If you want to check, pull the plugs. Turn engine to TDC on any cylinder. Put a pencil in the hole as vertical as possible, mark it at top of plug hole.
Turn engine to BDC on the same cylinder. Mark pencil again.
Measure between the marks. 3.0" = a 998 crank. 3.295" = a 1098 one.
[edit] for clarity.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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That was funny shrimps .
You know you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it poop.
But, they will poop anywhere they want. Whether you like it or not.
(Robster, in case you don't get it, we're talking about you)
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That was funny shrimps .
You know you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it poop.
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i wont lie this time
Sounds like a confession to me...
And don't forget to go to your VVS Anonymous support group before you take the video.
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hahaha, nope, i wont lie this time, lol,, i will make a video not just picture, i'll start the video from my kitchen and will film my way to the garage, open the bonnet and focus on the engine and zoom in to the rivetted number plate.... satisfied!! lol, ok will do that later.
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By A+ timing gear, do you mean with a tensioner ?
I'd have an A over an A+, the quality of the cast iron is supposed to be better.
Given the free and easy theft of other peoples photographs (see other thread), the general off-his-meds attitude and lies, I suspect that Nobster will once again duck the call of CUSTARD with regards to his engine number and car in general.
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The A+ is considered a stronger block. If i had the option of an A+ 998 or an A series 1098 i know which one i would take, even if the blocks were the same the timing chain set up is far superior.
I don't know when the A+'s were first produced but i have an original 1979 32k miles 1098 in a one owner (before me) Clubman Estate with all records and an A+ timing gear set. it should not have been produced and does not show a timing chain/gear replacement in the records. Maybe in the changeover period ?
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Weren't alot of the engines used for performance upgrades the A+ or the Metro block ?
I'd think he'd be happy.
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Malsal: that's what I expected... couldn't be bothered trolling through countless threads looking for photos.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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ok, how would i verify if the engine is indeed 1098 or 998? if it is indeed 998cc, i will return it to him immediately and refund my money... im so mad
Write down the engine serial number, which should be on a metal plate riveted onto the top of the block just above the alternator. Then post the number here and somebody will explain it.
If the number is missing, post a good image of the front of your engine so we can see from the rocker cover down the front of the engine. Then people will be able to confirm if it is a A-series or an A+ series engine and maybe whether it is a 998 or a 1275.
It's an A+ small bore with a pre verto clutch set up Dan if the pictures posted previously are his engine - based on the BS that he speads who knows. He still thinks a 1098 is a better engine because it has a bigger displacement than a 998.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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ok dan, will post pic of the numbers as soon as i get home. im really curious to know. im starting to get mad at the seller thinking that he lied to me.