Well, since I'm doing a full restoration should I switch over to pot joints now? are they better/stronger/less problematic?

Thanks

If I understand you have a power unit that has yoke type diff. outputs. There are three different type diff outputs. Yoke, Hardy Spicer and pot joints. The latter is a inboard CV type joint. If that is the type supplied with your disc kit you will need to go into your diff. and change the output shafts. The other way is to remove the outer CVs and install your old axles and go back with them. As for the yoke type inner joints the new QL5000s are not correctly made and a real problem to install. I had to remachine the cups to install the set I tried. Steve (CTR)

The axle is held into the inner part of the outer CV by a circlip. It snaps out of the joint by walloping the corner of the joint a fine blow in a mostly downward direction while holding the shaft vertical, cv joint at the bottom. Fitting the new CV is a reversal of the removal, paying attention to the following: make sure the clip snaps in and isn't destroyed. Do not remove the clip from the axle, you will regret this!

Ok, but will those bolt right up to the new CV joints in the disk brake conversion kit? 

I appreciate the help!

Part number QL5000 is the solution to that vibration.

It sounds like you withdrew the driveshaft from the yoke of the yoke type rubber coupling drive. These couplings are likely the worn items causing driveline vibration.

Cooper S disc brakes use different outer cv joints.

I just tore apart the front end and I'm ready to order the disc brake conversion kit. However, I'm a little puzzled about something. Forgive my newbie'ishness in all this but I noticed the U-joint connected to the "axle" on each end (if that's what they're called) had a rubber dust guard that I had to tear off in order to get the U-joint off the axle. It's sort of like the same rubber guard used on the ends of a rack and pinion setup. In any case, I started thinking that I need to order a new set of these for the new kit but then realized I'm going to have CV joints now. So now I'm not even sure how they connect to the current U-Joints or if I have to buy something else to get the CV Joints to connect to the yokes on the gear box/trans??? 

Can someone please chime in on this. 

Any info is appreciated.

Thanks

That is a practical plan.

I will say that you should make disc brakes a priority. In terms of keeping up with modern traffic, the brakes of the 1950s need to go. I used to be one of those folks who would continue to have drums on my daily driver, and the maintenance, poor performance and failures are just not worth it. If you get to experience a couple of minis, also pay attention to how they stop, and since your car is hydrolastic also note how much better a wet suspension car rides!

Well, I've spoken to Spank and he advised of a local mini club event happening a few weeks. I guess here's where I stand with all this:

1. The vehicle is a 69 Riley Elf

2. It's been a while since I drove this car so I don't remember exactly how the 998 performed. I just know that it vibrated a lot when I started hitting 65mph. Looks like my U-Joints were worn.

3. I want this car to keep up with eveyrone else on the freeway and have enough power to get up to 70-75mph if need be.

Since I don't know if I can get what I want out of the 998 or if I should move up to a 1275 I decided to attend the local event and see for myself what each engine is capable of. This is assuming that someone attending will have a pepped up 998. So, for now I'm going to focus on updating the suspension and brakes and wait till the event before deciding which motor to go with. 

If you are serious about converting the engine, there will be smart folks who will help you for free. Please tell us what car you are planning on putting this into. To be honest, no matter what you need, if you wish to do this on a budget Spank is moving and will have what you need. You may as well buy it from him.

I've got a 1275 recent rebuild (not by me) manual remote trans, yoke outputs, +.020 bore, mild cam, head off for inspection $1500. I may have "reappropriated" the head, but i'll adjust the price according to what sort of head you end up with. Shifter, yoke axles and yoke U-joints negotiable. If you need the diff changed, I have the parts probably for you to do that. If yo uneed a rod change trans, I have the parts for you to swap that over, too. I just loaded it onto my truck to put into temporary storage. I'll leave it on the truck if you are interested in seeing it in the next week. email is i my profile. 

Incidentally, our host has these advertised

//www.minimania.com/part/U-POWERUNIT/Used-1275-A-plus-Core-Motor-Engine-Trans--Mini--Cooper

Dude, now you're just crossing the line and being a total jerk! You had a complete unit for $1500. Then when you said it was automatic and not manual I said I preferred a manual block so I didn't have to incur extra machining costs. I also wouldn't even be able to use your trans so it would have been a waste of money. You then called me a complainer. Now, you have the nerve to say I'm not serious on this web forum. Grow up and get a life. If you're motor was so "desirable" and such a "good deal" as you had mentioned then it wouldn't still be on Craigslist over a month after you posted the ad. I'm not the type of guy you want to piss off so back the hell off!

While not in S Cal. I have a recently removed from a mini 1275 MG Metro power unit. I understand it smoked a little on over run. I suspect valve guides and seals. This is a very complete unit and can be test run on my engine test stand. At the time I found it I was working with someone but they also found a unit closer to them. For the right customer I'm willing to run a compression and leak test and check oil pressure. Depending on test results a valve job with guides and seals or that and rering. If reringed I'd have to check condition of cam and lifters. Fully balanced and blue printed to any spec other than full race is an option. I also keep Rover synchros, shift forks and OE bearings on hand. I also have CWPs from 4.20 to 2.76 as well as both A+ O/D drop gears. I'm located in Tidewater VA. 23661. Steve (CTR)

Contact me from e mail in profile for prices and options if interested.

Yeah sure...

Anyway I didn't mean to hijack the OPs thread. I'm sure he has his reasons why he didn't buy the 1275 but good luck to him In finding his 1275.

I have a 1275 power plant with an auto trans that needs to be rebuilt out of a 69 Austin America.  Motor ran really smooth with no smoke.  It only has 28K miles, lots of parts, even smog unit if wanted...  I'm in SoCal and travel all over the area, will deliver in needed.

Quick 998 thoughts: a boring well worn 998 with a header and electronic ignition will still hold 75 mph heading up the grapevine. 

998s don't mind the short final drives, like 3.65 or 3.76 while passengers and their ears might have issues.

stronger 998s can pull tall final drives. My summer road trip car has. 2.95, which is quiet, but maybe a 3.2 May be a better plan for it. This engine has decent Hepolite Pistons, a fancy cam, good ignition, a header and an RC-40 exhaust.

Building a 998 is said to cost as much as a 1275. People worry about costs too much. 

Graham Russel in Australia carries a line of awesome Pistons for 998 and 1098 engines. I plan on buying some of each.

a 1098 is just a long stroke 998, the wrist pin is in a different spot and the crankshaft stroke is longer. They make more torque. I would not want to put a 1098 on a short final drive, but 17 year old me would not hesitate!

there are great articles on 998/1098 engines as they are cool now that mini production is 15 years gone by, so do some research and make a plan.

keep in mind that there is no substitute for cubic inches, so the most torque for your dollar is a 1275 engine already built that Spank may have for sale, but if you decide to build a strong 998 you will likely get help from people who know their stuff (Spank again, among many others.)

The "not overheating" traits of the 998 cooper engine is my favorite. it is fast but just curious (I should slap myself for thinking about getting a 1275 before even thinking what I can do to improve my 998) aah Final gearing.. Making me more curious now. I personally like the period correct motor in my cooper George and in no way going to remove it but I just wanna keep up with the cars of today particularly on uphill roads on my regular commute. Won't hurt to ask for a little more power.

I personally like the 998 engine. Great power, smooth, don't over heat, fast, and with a stage one kit, extra HP. It's all in the final gearing my friend.

Curious how much were you selling it for? 

I offered the guy one, hes like 20 minutes from me, for a great price, he didnt take it and it sold today. I dont know if hes serious or looking for something really cheap, not trying to offend the guy but he takes things personal easily.