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 Rear Trailing arms.

 Created by: hynesj57
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 Posted: Feb 25, 2015 09:47PM
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US

This thread is a good example of the knowledge and experience that can be found on this forum. It's comforting. 

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Feb 25, 2015 08:14PM
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Probably better to save the wet arms.  I have since been offered a set of dry ones, thanks for the help.

 Posted: Feb 24, 2015 09:31PM
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US

I've used the drill it out and mount the shock with a bolt method before. Handy with Konis.

Minor issues to keep in mind with the wet arms: mounting position and lengths of the rear brake hose and the pipe to wheel cylinders.

 Posted: Feb 24, 2015 09:10PM
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Yes you can convert. The spring rate is different and like you mentioned the axle stub should be replaced with a dry one. It presses from the large nut side out the inside. You could chuck it up in a lathe drill and tap for 3/8 fine and press it back in and mount the bottom of the shock with a bolt. If you do buy new dry stubs use a old piston pin to press the new ones in place. If you press on the 3/8 shock stud it will bend over. Then you can cut it off and try the drill and tap route. Hi Lows are a good idea. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Feb 24, 2015 08:43PM
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CA
The angle of the Knuckle joint mount is different so you would have to add HI/Los to the mix .....

Mousy

 
 
 Posted: Feb 24, 2015 08:29PM
 Edited:  Feb 24, 2015 08:48PM
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Can I rebuild 'wet' trailing arms to use with dry suspension?  I have to rebuild them all the bearings are bad.  Looks like I will have to remove the shaft that holds the wheel bearings and replace it with the shaft that I can mount the shock to.  Is that all I have to change?  also how do I remove that shaft, I see what looks like a clip in the outboard side