Rear Trailing arms.
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Feb 25, 2015 09:47PM | Rosebud | |
Feb 25, 2015 08:14PM | hynesj57 | |
Feb 24, 2015 09:31PM | Cheleker | |
Feb 24, 2015 09:10PM | CooperTune | |
Feb 24, 2015 08:43PM | mousy | |
Feb 24, 2015 08:29PM | hynesj57 | Edited: Feb 24, 2015 08:48PM |
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This thread is a good example of the knowledge and experience that can be found on this forum. It's comforting.
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Probably better to save the wet arms. I have since been offered a set of dry ones, thanks for the help.
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I've used the drill it out and mount the shock with a bolt method before. Handy with Konis.
Minor issues to keep in mind with the wet arms: mounting position and lengths of the rear brake hose and the pipe to wheel cylinders.
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Yes you can convert. The spring rate is different and like you mentioned the axle stub should be replaced with a dry one. It presses from the large nut side out the inside. You could chuck it up in a lathe drill and tap for 3/8 fine and press it back in and mount the bottom of the shock with a bolt. If you do buy new dry stubs use a old piston pin to press the new ones in place. If you press on the 3/8 shock stud it will bend over. Then you can cut it off and try the drill and tap route. Hi Lows are a good idea. Steve (CTR)
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Mousy
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Can I rebuild 'wet' trailing arms to use with dry suspension? I have to rebuild them all the bearings are bad. Looks like I will have to remove the shaft that holds the wheel bearings and replace it with the shaft that I can mount the shock to. Is that all I have to change? also how do I remove that shaft, I see what looks like a clip in the outboard side