I bought 2 of the aftermarket seals, from 2 different shops. Both needed 3-5 people to shut the &%$%^ bootlid!
So, I sent them back and bought the `original' type. Supplier was same place I borrowed that pic from (check the URL). Seals well and shuts easy.

Agreed, but very difficult.  Kevin's aftermarket seal must feel like a brick.

Looks significantly better than Kevins picture.

This is a cross-section of the 14A6584 from MSC; although it's significantly tubular, it's still very hard to latch.

Same part number as the original, but still doesn't fit huh. It's got to be an (NOS) sourced boot seal I'm afraid, or it's going to take two burly men to even hold the bootlid flush enough to catch the handle latch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No, the one you have on there now will NOT start to give so that closing the boot becomes anything close to "normal". Sorry. Been there done that with aftermarket Mini replacement seals that claim to be genuine Factory spares, (including the MKI door seals!!! BEWARE!!!), only to find bulbatious swollen hybred seals made from SuperBall rubber that will never allow the boot lid to close proper. Here are some former posts on the subject >>>           Mini Estate

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/115657/1/1/door_weather_strip_too_large

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/102790/1/1/Boot_lid_seals_difference

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/112759/1/1/boot_lid_seal_fitment_problems

Nice picture, Kevin.  The seal that I just installed was about 2" too long, so I'll rummage through the trash bucket and take a picture of the cross section.  Although it's sold under the same 14A6584 p/n, the cross section resembles a hybrid of both types in your photograph.

Not all bootlid sponge seals are created equal. Aftermarket ones are usually harder and more rigid than the originals.

If you search the web you can still get the original 14A6584 sponge type, I bought mine in Australia recently, but they come from UK.

Here's a pic showing the difference..

The new seals suppliers are providing do seem a little bigger and tight to close. On a internal hinge door i had to cut/slit the seal on the backside in the door stop top hinge area as after two weeks i still could not shut the door all the way.

I installed the bootlid seal this afternoon; bought the correct early type (14A6584) and the 26 associated clips.  Assembly was pretty straight forward, but wow, it's really hard to close/latch. 

I'll leave it closed up for now, maybe it'll settle in, but I suspect I'll need to add an additional gasket under the lower half of the hinges to space the bootlid just a wee-bit away from the body. 

It's been a bit windy, even in the garage (burritos for dinner, 2 nights this week), so I didn't do the baby-powder test, thus avoiding the need to 'splain to Hyacinth why I smell so unbelievably fresh...

Yes, I'm aware that the newer type fits onto the body. 

I like that baby powder trick, going to try it soon.

The newer style fits onto the body itself (boot lid aperture). Years ago a guy taught me an easy way to find hard to locate water leaks by sprinkling baby powder on the seal and closing the boot lid then lightly showering it with the water hose, when you open the trunk the leaking area is obvious as it rinses the powder off.

Cool, thanks; I'll get the original type.  I wasn't sure if the newer style fitted 'over' the bootlid holes and sealed around the bootlid lip.  While I'm at it, I might as well replace the taillight seals also.

Fitting the later seal then leaves 26 holes on the boot lid surround to deal with. You would not want water geeting into the boot lid and causing rust issues.

Well, if I'm moving, a little water injection!   If I'm stopped in a downpour, probably have to pull the head!

Jemel, it sounds like you have a built in water injection for your engine.. should be good for additional horespower when driving in the rain!

My experience with the old on-boot-lid style is that replacements are not as 'spongy' as the originals. Depending on the fit of your particular Mini's lid, it can be VERY hard to close!  I had to double up the hinge gasket on mine to be able to latch the boot without damage.  I've installed the later CKE10018 on a couple of earlier cars and closing the lid is much kinder and gentler!

Can't say how well it seals water... I made sure my car never goes out in the rain by having velocity stacks open to the sky!

Over the years I've accepted the fact that MINI panels don't fit perfectly....Therefore I anticipate dripping here and there after I wash the car, or a run in the rain.
A drain hole in the battery box, spare well etc. is fine with me ( protected of course ).  I'm not sure that the on body seal is better than the on lid seal.  It may come down to the material used.  I imagine a rubber seal that's 20+ years old, will not seal as well as a quality new one.......quality being the word!

I imagine the later boot lids have the advantage of not having all those holes around the inside perimiter to possibly allow water in.  I'm sure that's part of the reason the bottom part of earlier boot lids are rusted away ( I'm guessing later lids did not have the holes for the clips holding the rubber? )

If you go with a "on the body seal", I would seal up the lid holes.

I've been getting a bit of water entering the boot when I drive in the rain, so I'm wondering if the later-type boot lid seal which fits the boot aperature is a better-sealing alternative to the original bootlid mounted clip-on type.  The water isn't entering from the boot floor, and there aren't any stains on the 'C-pillar' linings, so I'm assuming that it's the boot seal that's failing.

I just remembered also, it could possibly also be leaking from the rear lamps, but if I were to replace the boot seal, which would be the better option?