I have a set of performance lower control arm bushings I don't need.You can have them for free. I am working at St. Huberts animal rescue in Madison on Monday.If you want them you can meet me there. Jack

Got everything apart.  The oil seals are a royal pain in the arse. since would just brake apart.i think they are fused to the hub.  I ended up cutting it out.

 

Next, how do remove the inner metal sleeves (where the flange rests)????

Ok I am torn between 2 otpiosn

This kit that has the aftermarket HiLo, rear adapter, and 4 rubber springs.  

//www.minimania.com/part/MMKT0903/Mini-Cooper-Suspension-Upgrade-Kit-W--Hi-los--R

If i bought every seperatly it would cost about $150 more.  Why shouldn't i get this kit vs buying the original HiLo and rubber springs sperately?

What about lower control arm bushings? They look not so good in the pic. Then, what about upper control arm rebuild kits? This is how the mini disease starts. "While I'm in here doing this job, I might as well replace this part".....  And so it goes, and goes, and goes. My engine re-seal job turned into a full engine and transmission rebuild, and suspension rebuild, and steering rebuild, and brake rebuild.......

I'm guessing the black ones (front ) are "HiLo" brand....the real ones. 

The other ones are after market "copies"...... but include the rear also.

Whats the difference between the budget kit w/ all 4 trumpets and the front only kit?

Mini & Cooper Hilo Adjustable Height Suspension Trumpet Pair

Hi/lo Type Kit Front & Rear Budget Kit Mini & Mini Cooper S

New cones = The front end will be RIDING HIGH until they settle in- and this can take months.... While the rear is Low n settled in and worn out....will be low... many different measurements for where a properly sprung mini sits.  Stock vs racer vs sporty ETC./  I like 2-3 Fingers clearance tire to fender top.

Many times this is the opperutnuity to instal Hi Lo's to balance all  out 

Just instllaling new cones is fine. but prepare for it to be VERY lifted in the front compared to the rear. 4 new cones would give a even stance all aorund  but high until they all settle in. The more you drive it the more it will settle in. 

Just to be prepared. The front rebuild - will lead to the rear rebuld (less parts fortnuatly)

2x CUP KNUCKLE JOINT PART OF GSV1118 & 21A1163 

2x BOOT KNUCKLE JOINT PART OF GSV1118 / 21A1163 

1x BALL JOINT SHIM KIT (6 SHIMS) - MINI & MINI COOPER 

4x MINI COOPER BOOT DUST COVER BALL JOINT MINI & COOPER 

2x UPPER ARM BUFFER REBOUND FRONT - MINI & MINI COOPER S

2x STEERING TIE ROD BOOT OUTER ALL 

2x JOINT KNUCKLE GENUINE MINI & MINI COOPER 

2x SUSPENSION CONE (SPRING) STANDARD - EACH- MINI & MINI COOPER 

1x FRONT WHEEL BEARING KIT ROLLER TAPER S ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TIMKEN 

1x POLY TIE ROD BUSH KIT SET OF 4 FOR MINI & MINI COOPER (WB3)

 

Just shy of $400 plus shipping. I still need to figure out what boot i need for my steering column.  The current boots are intact but starting to crack. 

Welcome to classic Neglected Mini Ownership ...

 

While the car works as is- you are doing the right things by refreshing these parts. Lots of work- adding many of this and that just for replacing rubber cones.  You will enjoy the new ride quality.

I will add - Consider replacing CV Boots -- if any cracks present - and you ahve the hubs off- Now is your time.

 - replacing the full tie rod end too - will replace full worn part- and not just the "boot" that will likely split again.

 I always get extra ball joint rubber boots too (as some in kits are horrible quality) 4 per car

//www.minimania.com/part/BTA377/Mini-Cooper-Boot-Dust-Cover-Ball-Joint-Mini--Cooper

If you're refreshing ball joints- make sure to get atleast 1 spare' Shim Kit--- sizing with more shims available helps greatly.

//www.minimania.com/part/2A4242/Ball-Joint-Shim-Kit-6-Shims---Mini--Mini-Cooper-S

Wheel bearings- if they come apart and are not noisy why not a simple re pack and re grease? (just thoughts)

  - saw your post about a Cone Compressor tool Reddit i think. -  rentable yes -- makeable too - I have used multiple times a 7 Inch long metric bolt.

....and two of these

 

This part?

//www.minimania.com/part/SRG100-P/Steering-Rack-Boot-Pair-Options-Available

How do I know which option to buy?

Or/And //www.minimania.com/part/7H3762/Steering-Tie-Rod-Boot-Outer-All

 

 

 

Thanks

Is it me or does that steering rack and tie rod boot look cracked ???

While you are in there ...........

Mousy

Regarding tie rod and lower arm bushings, I prefer those made by Ward Barbour. They aren't quite so harsh and don't break up as they get older. Oh. And they are black instead of, "Hey, look at me. I'm a colorful bushing"!

Use the SEARCH feature. Set it to PARTS and search for WB. All Ward Barbour's parts are so cleverly numbered starting with WB.

Gotchya.  I'll update my list.  What about the rest of it.  See anything else i should add on as "Also"

2x Rubber Spring, Reproduction (FAM3968E) ??   Nooooo !

Make sure you get proper ones FAM3968 on this site

and bearings....don't cheap out, you'll just be changing them again sooner than you expect

tie rod rubber

 

edit: in reading a bit more....the FAM3968 on this site for that price are probably the "approved" reproductions.  Originals will have "Dunlop" embossed on the edge

So if you have been following my brake repair adventure you know i am having some issues removing the drive flange from the hub.  The internet and my wife's mechanic grandfather agree that the bearings might be bad.  To get everything apart i am going to take the hub off the car.  While i am doing this I might as well replace and bad rubber and my rubber cones.  

 

Here is my shopping cart right now.  Is it right? What did i miss?

2x Rubber Spring, Reproduction (FAM3968E)
2x Knuckle Joint, Rover (GSV1118-OE)
1x Front Wheel Bearing Kit, Taper Roller (GHK1140E)
1x Bushing Kit, Front Suspension, Poly (Poly Suspension Bush Kit)
2x Ball Joint Kit, One Side, Rover/Unipart (GSJ0166)

-Will